how to service/open/grease a 1st gen Dura Ace Freewheel

ibbz

Gold Trader
rBotM Winner
98+ BoTM Winner
Karma King
Dyna-Tech Fan
Feedback
View
I've got a Dura Ace Freewheel.
It's the 6 speed one and possibly first version, in Gold (I also have a 5 sp one which differs slightly)
Thing is, I foolishly, being used to cleaning cassettes (rather than freewheels) to scrum grease and dirt off, washed it, and I think water has gotten inside and it's become a bit stiff in parts when spinning.

Is it possible to open this and service/grease it?
Or is it game over for this (expensive) Freewheel?

(the bottom picture is before cleaning - when it spun and sounded Great - now it gleams and is very nice condition yet doesn't sound and feel too good)

$_57.JPG


$_57.JPG
 
Generally freewheels just need to be flushed out of any debris and then liberally oiled. They either work or they don't, sounds like yours just needs a good clean

If you are keen to take it apart then the lockring comes undone with a right hand thread (clockwise), collect all the bits (box needed underneath) and put back together with grease thick enough to keep the balls in situ. I was taught to use a loop of fine cotton to keep the pawls in place while the body goes over, pulling out the cotton out when the pawls have engaged but the body not being fully home as that traps the cotton.

Yours is the same as my original 5 speeds where the small cog of the 5 speed is replaced by a pair of cogs screwed together to make a 6 speed.

2ajns0g.jpg


Shaun
 
Midlife":gpnz75pv said:
Generally freewheels just need to be flushed out of any debris and then liberally oiled. They either work or they don't, sounds like yours just needs a good clean

If you are keen to take it apart then the lockring comes undone with a right hand thread (clockwise), collect all the bits (box needed underneath) and put back together with grease thick enough to keep the balls in situ. I was taught to use a loop of fine cotton to keep the pawls in place while the body goes over, pulling out the cotton out when the pawls have engaged but the body not being fully home as that traps the cotton.

Yours is the same as my original 5 speeds where the small cog of the 5 speed is replaced by a pair of cogs screwed together to make a 6 speed.

2ajns0g.jpg


Shaun

I oiled it, (taking a hint from sheldon's website) and the noise changed, the clicking deadened quite a bit but all semed well. But a few minutes later the freewheel is clicking but creaking too?? Well, click click click creak click click then noise of the click changes to a creak cum tick sound. Shall I be very liberal with the oil ( i only used a matter of drops) ?
 
Midlife":2e8xwoi5 said:
You need to flood the mechanism like a .......... Flooded thing :)

Shaun
Thanks Shaun ! I will do just that and will hope it works!

Thanks again
 
Re:

The end bearing plate is a left hand thread, so turns clockwise to unscrew, but you would need to mount it on a wheel to do this, not tight.

Probably water has rusted the balls in the inner race, should be 1/8 inch on the inner race.

Years ago we always put some grease around the gap both sides and hoped to stop the rain getting in. Also to encourage a build up of DIRT!!

I seem to remember riding in the rain about 2 or 3 days a week.

Keith
 
I have two of these
5 sp and 6 sp.
is it possible to chop and change cogs? Using same body? (As in a freehub body)
As the 5sp is NOS and perfect whereas the asp had the problem. 6 sp is perfect ratio.
 
I'm sure you can chop and change for those as it was only the two smaller cogs that were different. Use two chainwhips to dismantle or if you only have one chainwhip then you can screw down the largest cog using the gaps between the teeth to a stuyrdy piece of wood to hold it still.....if that makes sense.

Shaun
 
Midlife":271zuxhv said:
I'm sure you can chop and change for those as it was only the two smaller cogs that were different. Use two chainwhips to dismantle or if you only have one chainwhip then you can screw down the largest cog using the gaps between the teeth to a stuyrdy piece of wood to hold it still.....if that makes sense.

Shaun


Thanks again Shaun
I've never done this before
How exactly do I dismantle one? Do the cogs twist off? Do I undo the lockring on the underside ?
 
There are a few designs, some have two sets of threads and some have slide on larger cogs held on with the smaller cogs on threads. Suntour went bananas on threads but I think Shimano were splined for the larger cogs.

Blimey my memory is bad but I don't think that's a locking on the underside just part of the outer part of the body that holds the cogs and spins around the bit that screws onto the hub.


I wonder if there is a diagram on the internet?

Shaun
 
Back
Top