Cannondale M500 (I think) and Pepperoni headset Q

[rogerzilla]

If it's an alu steerer, throw it away. They were all recalled.

Assuming it's a steel steerer, it can be extended by a framebuilder. They fit an internal sleeve and braze another bit on.

The basic problem is that you have a fork for a smaller frame.

 

[chfs911]

M500 1996 & M900 1998

See pics

 

[allankelly]

Thanks for the pics Charles.

I'll assume the steerer's steel...

Bodge City here I come

al.

 

[MikeD]

I found a 1" hanger clamp for £5.99 and I think I'll just ream out the thread from the top race I've got. That should do it.

Not sure there'll be enough room on the steerer for all that lot. A few more threads in the steerer and an ordinary threaded headset is what you need, although it'll have to be a pretty low-stack headset. And I'd check what it's made of first

 

[allankelly]

Thanks, it's worth a try though eh? I'll bodge up a headset I took off a child's bike I found in a skip (!) before I go changing the apparently original fork.

I think the steerer is steel after a quick "stanley blade test" (it doesn't score).

Given that it has a clear serial number, I'd hoped to find some info on it on t'internet but I've only found frame serial number info. Anywhere you know of where I can find fork serial number info?

Cheers, al.

 

[kaiser]

Think I agree with a few others, the fork appears to have been cut. Probably to be used with an aheadset on a smaller frame. The groove is for a washer in a regluar headset too.

 

[allankelly]

Hi, well some time later I finally built the bike up. I opted for adding thread to the steerer and did some research around that. A comment from the late great Sheldon Brown from about 30 years ago (1983) suggested:

Sometimes, the threads on the fork's steerer tube need to be cleaned up. In this case, you need a die. One way to make such a die is to use an old, worn out headset race. Headset races are made from hardened steel, just like dies, and you can make a headset race into a tap by cutting grooves in it with a carbide-tipped hacksaw blade.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/taps.html

Park want £250 for the 'proper' tool, and chat on LondonFGSS suggested that finding a bike shop willing & able to do the job could be not-straightforward and spendy, so I thought about that for a while and realised I have a tungsten carbide tile saw in the garage and I got to work. Several hours later... see below! It does require a low stack-height so there's a 30.2mm stack-height Tange headset on it's way - the old headset on there now is 37mm stack and it just fits but doesn't give confidence with very little thread in the locknut and no room for the tabbed washer.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/allankelly ... 3771/show/

Starting position: Home made die and very short thread.

Beginning to cut: Nice clean chip. I increased to 8 cuts in the race shortly after this.

Some time later: Swarf. Lots of WD40 and hefty shoulders. Tool about 16 hefts per rotatation... At 24 threads per inch that's a lot of hefts!

End result: 15mm of nice clean new thread.

Cheers, al.

 

[Enid_Puceflange]

Shoot Man! :shock: :shock:

Nicely Done!!

Gc

 

[clockworkgazz]

very cool you the man

 

[MikeD]

That is a most excellent tip :-D