Kona Ku Serial Number List - update 13/06/25

[Monkeeee01]

That's gorgeous, definitely keep the same colour if you have to respray it. That's one of the '99 Taiwan made frames with the chain-stay bridge, first time I have seen one in that size. Interesting that it does not have the reinforced headtube that the larger frames have but I guess there is no room with that massive downtube to fit in!

I think it does have the flares on the top and bottom of the headtube (if that’s what you mean?)

 

[murphy79]

I think it does have the flares on the top and bottom of the headtube (if that’s what you mean?)

Yeah, that is the reinforcement. It is a lot less obvious against the metallic paint (such a lovely colour!) than the others I have seen, but clear in that picture.

Also, I think (have read somewhere) for the Hodaka serial numbers, the third character is not a control code but indicates the two week period of the year in which it was made (A being the first two weeks of January, B the last two weeks, 26 letters giving 52 weeks of the year). It would make slightly more sense for these frames to have been built at the start of '99 rather than in October when the production for the 2000 model year would be well under way.

 

[Monkeeee01]

You know me, OG wins almost every time, especially on a custom frame. Just look at the state of the "top gun" Hot as a recent example.

The paint isn't the problem, re-creating the decals is but I trust your judgement

A further consideration point. As a later Ku with a seat-stay bridge, the SN is the key to ID'ing the frame, along it's OG patina. If the SN is lost in repainting, which is often the case, it becomes that much harder to resale in the future. I'd add that IF there's any intention to sell in the future, and there's an expectation to recoup costs, I'm afraid that's highly unlikely.

Effectively, why repaint a custom frame? Just get a Kula and save a stack of cash.

I hear everything you’re saying @al-onestare but for me the paint is definitely too bad to not respray it. I just wouldn’t be happy with it and it would bug/upset me.

Normally I would agree that keeping it original is 100% preferred but it’s tatty as fook.

I’ve already got Gil to start working on the decals, his proof he sent here is almost right but the sizes are slightly off. Both @d8mok and I have measured and I’m sending him the correct sizes. I also got him to reduce the size of the outline to be the same as on the KK I recently used his decals for so I’m comfortable they will be as accurate as they can be.

I have no intention of selling it, but it also didn’t actually cost me too much (as it’s battered and it was in Canadian dollars, shipping also only cost me £107 and I managed to avoid any import tax and VAT somehow).

I will ask the painters if they can keep the serial number visible though!

 

[Monkeeee01]

Yeah, that is the reinforcement. It is a lot less obvious against the metallic paint (such a lovely colour!) than the others I have seen, but clear in that picture.

Also, I think (have read somewhere) for the Hodaka serial numbers, the third character is not a control code but indicates the two week period of the year in which it was made (A being the first two weeks of January, B the last two weeks, 26 letters giving 52 weeks of the year). It would make slightly more sense for these frames to have been built at the start of '99 rather than in October when the production for the 2000 model year would be well under way.

Thanks man, yeah that makes sense. I think I was also told it was possible these were made in early 99 and then a lot were ordered to be crushed as the market wasn’t there for custom HT as everyone jumped on the Full SuS bandwagon

It really is a lovely colour when you look up close and I’d love to keep it original but as I said it’s too tatty so making sure the paint is matched is really
Important to me. I think the very top of the seat tube in this pic shows the paint the best

 

[murphy79]

Thanks man, yeah that makes sense. I think I was also told it was possible these were made in early 99 and then a lot were ordered to be crushed as the market wasn’t there for custom HT as everyone jumped on the Full SuS bandwagon

In the list all of these frames have very similar S/N (H9A00...), so would have been done in a single batch. I've heard mention that some were warranty replacements, but not heard anything about crushing the '99s before.

Some of the Altitude built '97s were apparently crushed when they lost the contract, it's earlier in this thread, I think, mentioned by someone who managed to save one!

On decals, I think the 98 versions are much easier to get right as they are mainly just black and white. The 96/97 were either blue or yellow/orange and it is the colour that is normally the easiest thing to spot as being wrong. And the size/shape has got better over time. A shame to lose the originals, but I'm sure you'll do a top job! It is actually pretty similar to what I want to do with my '97 Ku (although that had already been stripped of paint before I got it ).

 

[Monkeeee01]

In the list all of these frames have very similar S/N (H9A00...), so would have been done in a single batch. I've heard mention that some were warranty replacements, but not heard anything about crushing the '99s before.

Some of the Altitude built '97s were apparently crushed when they lost the contract, it's earlier in this thread, I think, mentioned by someone who managed to save one!

On decals, I think the 98 versions are much easier to get right as they are mainly just black and white. The 96/97 were either blue or yellow/orange and it is the colour that is normally the easiest thing to spot as being wrong. And the size/shape has got better over time. A shame to lose the originals, but I'm sure you'll do a top job! It is actually pretty similar to what I want to do with my '97 Ku (although that had already been stripped of paint before I got it ).

Oooh do you have a pic of your 97?

Yeah I’m really happy with the KK ones so as long as they are the same quality and colour accurate I think they will be top!

 

[murphy79]

Oooh do you have a pic of your 97?

Now it is in a sorry state without paint (no cracks or dents though) so no pictures currently. There was a thread here about it with some pictures of how it used to look, that was a long time before I got my hands on it though. It did have '98 decals so that is probably what I will go for (eventually) but is a '97 frame (S/N KU9702089 and on the list).

 

[d8mok]

To add my 2cents into the repaint or leave discussion.....

I'm all for original paint even if its a little bit worn in places. But i feel this one is too far gone to look decent again. Of course you will never fully replicate a OE finish but i feel using a good quality painter and some time spent getting the decals correct he will get close.

My biggest thing is that if ts being lacquered i much prefer waterslide decals. But where are you gonna get some?

The serial number i would ask for it to be left without paint in a rectangle, and then lacquerer over it.


Bet you are gonna twitch @Monkeeee01 when youve got to knock that headset out , and another back in.

 

[Monkeeee01]

Now it is in a sorry state without paint (no cracks or dents though) so no pictures currently. There was a thread here about it with some pictures of how it used to look, that was a long time before I got my hands on it though. It did have '98 decals so that is probably what I will go for (eventually) but is a '97 frame (S/N KU9702089 and on the list).

Interesting thanks, the pics here look very similar to mine (obviously it’s a much bigger size)

Would love to see it when you eventually get it sorted!

 

[Monkeeee01]

To add my 2cents into the repaint or leave discussion.....

I'm all for original paint even if its a little bit worn in places. But i feel this one is too far gone to look decent again. Of course you will never fully replicate a OE finish but i feel using a good quality painter and some time spent getting the decals correct he will get close.

My biggest thing is that if ts being lacquered i much prefer waterslide decals. But where are you gonna get some?

The serial number i would ask for it to be left without paint in a rectangle, and then lacquerer over it.


Bet you are gonna twitch @Monkeeee01 when youve got to knock that headset out , and another back in.

Yeah exactly water slide decals would be the dream but like you said where from….

I was planning to send the decals to the frame painter and get them to apply and then lacquered over - do you think this is the right approach?

(Oh and don’t even get me started on thinking about removing and replacing the headset….. I was going to get my LBS to install the headset for me but I think I should be ok to remove the old one……

I tried to remove the chainset last night and the Allen key bolt in the middle of the crank wouldn’t budge. Admitted I didn’t try very hard as I didn’t have a lot of time and was equally a bit anxious…..