Fat Chance 1992 Yo Eddy Rebuild
- Thread starter WD Pro
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makster":1o2k8iw6 said:Signing in for another epic wd build thread
It's at page five already and he's no even done anything yet!! :shock:
I am hoping there are a few fat / Yo owners watching this thread that could help me with some info … 
My frame doesn’t have the anti chain suck mounting plate bosses. As the frame is going to get painted I might as well add these so I have the option of using them or not in the future
I am looking for the following dimensions :
I presume the dimensions were fixed regardless of frame size / model (did other Fat’s get them or just the Yo ?), info from two separate owners (or an owner with multiple frames) would be ideal and really appreciated
Thanks in advance for any help
WD
My frame doesn’t have the anti chain suck mounting plate bosses. As the frame is going to get painted I might as well add these so I have the option of using them or not in the future
I am looking for the following dimensions :
I presume the dimensions were fixed regardless of frame size / model (did other Fat’s get them or just the Yo ?), info from two separate owners (or an owner with multiple frames) would be ideal and really appreciated
Thanks in advance for any help
WD
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I'd not bother with them, seen people mention the plates moving and hitting the rings.
sparkiegaz
Senior Retro Guru
looks like this is going to be a good one,,,i like how well you clean everything,,,
Thank you Another question - are they M5 or M6 ?
I had been messing around with the bottom bracket, it needed new spacers as the OE ones had a couple of hairline cracks which might have been OK, but would have defo been high lighted / looked cak after fresh ano ... :?
I took into consideration :
* The OE spacers have a small OD. I don't like seeing the edge of the shell if it can be avoided, especially on a painted frame.
* Dont face it = I dont like cracked paint ... :?
* Face bb shell after painting = I don't like seeing a rusty ring ... :?
* I wanted to add a bit of anodised colour in the BB area.
* Flame suit on - I quite like the chunky look of external BB's ...
I don't have access to a lathe anymore
but Rampage on here does 
So I had a think and came up with these :
Fitting like this :
To space the BB correctly :
I messed up with the design of the drive side cup a litle though I forgot about the lock ring Turns out the non drive side cup fits well though so some mods will soon see it right. The crank isn't fully on the arm here - the lockring will sit inside the recess :
You might have noticed the slight recess on the inside faces, this is to shround the the faced BB shell / hide any paint chips / stop the rusty ring syndrome etc, I will put a bead of grease or maybe silicon in there before assembly to make sure its all sealed well :
The parts will be added to the purple ano pile
I am collecting the bits to start the frame mods (Thanks danson67 ) :
All stainless steel, other than the clips
The bottle bosses are the sealed type, but they will need the heads modifying to match the OE versions :
I am on the frame builders waiting list (Kevin Winter)
I have made contact about the decals
I have found matching Stainless (rear) and Ti (front) brake mounts
More coming soon ...
WD
Another question - are they M5 or M6 ? I had been messing around with the bottom bracket, it needed new spacers as the OE ones had a couple of hairline cracks which might have been OK, but would have defo been high lighted / looked cak after fresh ano ... :?
I took into consideration :
* The OE spacers have a small OD. I don't like seeing the edge of the shell if it can be avoided, especially on a painted frame.
* Dont face it = I dont like cracked paint ... :?
* Face bb shell after painting = I don't like seeing a rusty ring ... :?
* I wanted to add a bit of anodised colour in the BB area.
* Flame suit on - I quite like the chunky look of external BB's ...
I don't have access to a lathe anymore
but Rampage on here does So I had a think and came up with these :
Fitting like this :
To space the BB correctly :
I messed up with the design of the drive side cup a litle though
I forgot about the lock ring Turns out the non drive side cup fits well though so some mods will soon see it right. The crank isn't fully on the arm here - the lockring will sit inside the recess :
You might have noticed the slight recess on the inside faces, this is to shround the the faced BB shell / hide any paint chips / stop the rusty ring syndrome etc, I will put a bead of grease or maybe silicon in there before assembly to make sure its all sealed well :
The parts will be added to the purple ano pile
I am collecting the bits to start the frame mods (Thanks danson67
) :
All stainless steel, other than the clips
The bottle bosses are the sealed type, but they will need the heads modifying to match the OE versions :
I am on the frame builders waiting list (Kevin Winter)
I have made contact about the decals
I have found matching Stainless (rear) and Ti (front) brake mounts
More coming soon ...
WD
Rick Draper":go216p1f said:
I had been wondering about that, I asked on fat cogs and the responses seem to be in agreement !
http://www.fatcogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3814
I am still unsure if I will fit / use them or not yet. If I do, corrosion won’t be a problem. The inserts I have are the blind stainless steel type. If I want studs, I will use stainless threaded bar and blue Loctite. I will probably use ano ally bolts though or stainless button heads (either option covered in anti seize).The design of the toothpick will be custom to suit my set up – laser cut stainless using both mounting holes with no adjustment / no movement ;-)
WD
