1998 Orange P7 Tourer/ATB

Here's where I got with it today. VO Happy stem came in the post and fitted it. I'm obviously still learning about bike fit and after looking at some photos of 90s mountain bikes built as bikepacking/touring rigs I noticed that hardly anyone has bars much higher than the saddle, and when they do, it's usually just by an inch at most.

I was trying to match the fit to my other bike that I cycled to Bristol on, but turns out it doesn't work that way. I had 100mm of spacers on this along with this stem and it just felt like a completley upright bike, way more upright than my Kona, despite the rough measurements being the same. The top tube is shorter on this and the headtube slacker and I suppose that influences fit quite a lot! I slowly lowered the bars down, and ended up cutting 25mm off of the steerer tube and I've ended up with this, the bars just a smidge higher than the saddle.

It feels really, really good like this. I've never ridden a bike that I feel so in control of. Standing up on the pedals feels super effortless and I'm able to move my body weight around really comfortably. I'm planning to get a riser bar to allow for more reach adjustment anyway, so I'm thinking to cut the head tube more and knock it down 40mm or so. Then with a smidge of saddle nose up/down and setting the position on the rails right, I think I'll have a bike that fits!

Ordered a Pelago Commuter front rack too, and went a slightly different path with my front bag choices. Will be revealed soon!

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Before you get too carried away with cutting, may I suggest only changing things by 5mm at a time?
 
Update(s) on this. I've put it all together and done all the cables. Ridden it to and from work about 4 times and I'm enjoying it. On my Kona I don't usually like to stand on the pedals, but on this I find myself standing on them much more! The saddle is really annoying me, wish I had the money to swap the saddle colour!

The geo is a bit too aggressive for long-ish stints in the saddle, but I have some wider, riser bars with backsweep on the way that should solve that. I've also got some XTR cartridge carriers and a bunch of Aztec pads that will replace the metal-ridden Tektro ones that I have on there temporarily. All my touring bags are now with me, but I still haven't got my front rack so cannot do a test fit yet.

I also noticed today that the XT front deraileur was complete toast. Loads of play in all axes, only when the mechanism is pulled, hence I didn't notice it before. It makes getting the H screw set impossible since when set correctly (1mm gap between chain and cage when on outer cog) the deraileur just doesn't push the chain onto the cog since it moves around so much, but if I set the H screw further out, I just shift the chain off the ring entirely.

I'm also wondering if there's a way I can make my shifters "more indexed"??? I know this probably sounds stupid (I have friction shifters) but I struggle to trim the gears sometimes, especially when accelerating quickly from a standstill. When I ride I usually pre-emptively shift down when I stop before traffic lights, going from say the smallest cog (9) to a larger cog (4), but since I'm still holding the speed that the smallest cog gave me, I can't really feel the RD shifting up the cassette. I then only find out if the gear is properly selected when I set off again, and it usually isn't. Perhaps I should just change my riding habit and start from a smaller cog.

Will post some pics soon!

Post a side-on pic of the bike setup with saddle at the right height.

Bottom swing grunt mechs die like that. If there's more than a few mm play at the back of the cage, it'll be hard to index.

Vague old Friction, great on 6, was losing it on 8, 9 is worse.
Don't tell the FrictionThumbyBrigade I said that, but it's true.
 
Bottom swing grunt mechs die like that. If there's more than a few mm play at the back of the cage, it'll be hard to index.
It only has play when it's not at its H/L stops. Makes sense. Something else I noticed was that my spokes seem "loose". They are all the same-ish tension and I did get the wheels trued. The spokes on my other bike are much much tighter though. Something that needs fixing?

Photos:

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