What tool to remove wtb microlite BB?

[futuristicoldman]

Its not mine im afraid. I had a basic cyclo one which died from over use, have not seen another since. I think they still make them though.
You can knock up a similar tool with some threaded bar, some nuts and a flat piece of steel, Use a closed fixed cup remover and the knocked up part stops the tool from slipping and rounding off.

 

[xerxes]

I have one and they are still available:

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/produ ... yclo_Pedal

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PARK-TOOLS-BO ... 231fe2389e

To be honest though, they're not really any better than a decent quality large adjustable; they still have a tendency to slip off the narrow flats of the bottom bracket cup.

For similar money you can get extra wide jaw adjustables which come in handy for headset lock nuts, and other things, as well: http://www.toollineuk.com/search.php?se ... adjustable

 

[WD Pro]

Use one of them and bolt it in place ? (That's what I would do)

WD

 

[FluffyChicken]

If anyone is interested it 36mm

I found my decent adjustable just wasn't good enough. Mind it's not one of the thin ones mentioned above.
Trouble with the wider ones is they rotate away from the frame and hence slip of if you need to add a bit of force.
Proper tool and the tacx is very nice better than the cyclo o e above with them pedal spanner. Though the other tool looks near

 

[legrandefromage]

damn nice bottom bracket regardless!

Suntour XC Pro?

 

[xerxes]

damn nice bottom bracket regardless!

Maybe, but regardless, I've had dozens of separate cup and cone type BBs over the years of varying quality and price, some with rubber seals like that one, and not one of them has lasted longer than a basic Shimano UN54/55 cartridge BB.

 

[FluffyChicken]

Except it's not cup and cone, it's cartridge bearing.
It 1991 model Microlite, an upgrade to the standard xc pro. Cost more of course. Wouldn't mind one myself along with it front hub counterpart.

See here 1991 cat I scanned
www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/Manufact ... 4.jpg.html

 

[xerxes]

Except it's not cup and cone, it's cartridge bearing.

Ah, OK, never had one like that. All the ones I had were either loose or caged balls. I would spend ages getting them "just so", not too tight, but with no play. But despite all my faffing and using good quality grease, I don't think any of them made it through a whole winter before they either got rough and gritty or started knocking because they had some play in them. When you took the old BB out, you'd see the familiar pitting on the spindle bearing surfaces, or the cup surfaces, or both.

Modern cartridge style bearings, and not just BBs, but headsets as well, seem to last much better than the loose or caged ball type. As far as I know, these use standard, pre-made, industrial bearings and my guess is that they last longer because specialist bearing manufacturers make better bearings/bearing surfaces than bicycle component manufacturers. Even on loose ball type bearings, the cups and/or cones would be worn, but the ball bearings themselves, which presumably were bought in, would be fine, I don't think I've ever come across damaged or worn ball bearing.

 

[legrandefromage]

Except it's not cup and cone, it's cartridge bearing.

Ah, OK, never had one like that. All the ones I had were either loose or caged balls. I would spend ages getting them "just so", not too tight, but with no play. But despite all my faffing and using good quality grease, I don't think any of them made it through a whole winter before they either got rough and gritty or started knocking because they had some play in them. When you took the old BB out, you'd see the familiar pitting on the spindle bearing surfaces, or the cup surfaces, or both.

Modern cartridge style bearings, and not just BBs, but headsets as well, seem to last much better than the loose or caged ball type. As far as I know, these use standard, pre-made, industrial bearings and my guess is that they last longer because specialist bearing manufacturers make better bearings/bearing surfaces than bicycle component manufacturers. Even on loose ball type bearings, the cups and/or cones would be worn, but the ball bearings themselves, which presumably were bought in, would be fine, I don't think I've ever come across damaged or worn ball bearing.

getting off topic there but there are many many things wrong with that statement!

 

[xerxes]

getting off topic there but there are many many things wrong with that statement!

There are at least three things wrong with that sentence.

But I digress, care to expand?