Nuke Proof Reactor - hard tail build help really needed!
- Thread starter ishaw
- Start date
Re: Re:
Just been thinking about this and if you can get a similar sized bearing could you not have a new cup and crown race CNC'd up to fit a commonly used bearing? Why try to move the mountain sort of thing?
Carl.
ishaw":1q2yqlkj said:Sadly none of the bearing suppliers you've mention list the earring need as a stock item. I guess it can't hurt to ask if the guy can get one though.royboy2cv":1q2yqlkj said:All of your problems can be fixed , wish i lived nearer so i could help ( i'am in Bournemouth ) , Simply bearings or bearing boys for you bearings , the BB drive side or none drive side Left hand thread or Right hand thread ? Find a local machine shop ( a friendly one ) to make a tapered drift for the seat tube , love that frame and the design of the front end of that frame ( i have £5) :mrgreen: .Good luck with it and hope you solve the problems .
It seems I have a spare head tube for the frame, no idea what it though. I can't see it being much use for anything, though may use it to play with whilst I figure out the bearing situation.
Just been thinking about this and if you can get a similar sized bearing could you not have a new cup and crown race CNC'd up to fit a commonly used bearing? Why try to move the mountain sort of thing?
Carl.
syncrosfan
Senior Retro Guru
Re:
I'm attaching some pics of the lower headset bearings.
I got lucky and my steering tube assembly came with the coveted lower bearing. However it was covered in muck and dirty as hell. The seals on the original bearing are a joke, just some crappy floppy (fiberglass?) sort of tape, virtually useless I'm thinking of making my own seals out of delrin.
The other bearing in the pics is something I sourced way before I got the second frame from the e-bay seller. Back then I was planning on making my own everything since I had only a raw frame (which was a little too small). Anyways, the only thin section angular contact bearing that I could find that was somewhat close to the original dimensions (but a little bigger) was the Kaydon JB025XP0 13276. It is by comparison the waay superior bearing, proper seals and such but it requires making a new lower headset cup since it's bigger and a new sleeve between it and the steering tube assembly. I'm still torn back and forth whether I should do this the right way and use the Kaydon bearing but then i need more custom parts, or I use the crummy original bearing and make new seals and hope that it'll hold up. I do not know how much the Kaydon bearing costs because I sourced through a buddy who owed me a favor, but it could be expensive...
As far as the mounting hardware goes, I attached some pics, it seems like the needle bearings run on a custom stainless steel spindle that has delrin washers in between to seal the unit. It's actually quite well engineered because the notches on the spindle are lining up with holes on the upper plate and lower mount on the steering tube and they're connected with a small pin to prevent them from turning. They look custom, the dimensions are: small part diameter:8.99mm, cap diameter:18mm, spindle length:16.75mm, cap part thickness: 3.25mm, the hole going through is: 5.93mm takes a M6 screw. I'll look whether there's a way to source them from somewhere, but they could be custom at least the notch is.
I'm attaching some pics of the lower headset bearings.
I got lucky and my steering tube assembly came with the coveted lower bearing. However it was covered in muck and dirty as hell. The seals on the original bearing are a joke, just some crappy floppy (fiberglass?) sort of tape, virtually useless I'm thinking of making my own seals out of delrin.
The other bearing in the pics is something I sourced way before I got the second frame from the e-bay seller. Back then I was planning on making my own everything since I had only a raw frame (which was a little too small). Anyways, the only thin section angular contact bearing that I could find that was somewhat close to the original dimensions (but a little bigger) was the Kaydon JB025XP0 13276. It is by comparison the waay superior bearing, proper seals and such but it requires making a new lower headset cup since it's bigger and a new sleeve between it and the steering tube assembly. I'm still torn back and forth whether I should do this the right way and use the Kaydon bearing but then i need more custom parts, or I use the crummy original bearing and make new seals and hope that it'll hold up. I do not know how much the Kaydon bearing costs because I sourced through a buddy who owed me a favor, but it could be expensive...
As far as the mounting hardware goes, I attached some pics, it seems like the needle bearings run on a custom stainless steel spindle that has delrin washers in between to seal the unit. It's actually quite well engineered because the notches on the spindle are lining up with holes on the upper plate and lower mount on the steering tube and they're connected with a small pin to prevent them from turning. They look custom, the dimensions are: small part diameter:8.99mm, cap diameter:18mm, spindle length:16.75mm, cap part thickness: 3.25mm, the hole going through is: 5.93mm takes a M6 screw. I'll look whether there's a way to source them from somewhere, but they could be custom at least the notch is.
Attachments
Re: Re:
I really must find the time to get this project moving, but waiting in a family member to get back from a cruise to try and sort me out some bearings and bolts, then from there things will be looking up I think.
Possibly the one he was offering me in exchange for the one sent. After the hassle and cost of returning it to the states, it wasn't really worth the effort I don't think, so just going to get the work that is needed done on this one. I did get a partial refund though, so that's a positive and should go some way towards getting the frame sorted at least.royboy2cv":2n1u9eix said:
I really must find the time to get this project moving, but waiting in a family member to get back from a cruise to try and sort me out some bearings and bolts, then from there things will be looking up I think.
syncrosfan
Senior Retro Guru
I made some progress on the fork braces. Got everything mocked up and cycled through the front movement. The upper brace would have some collision issues with the head-tube. I'll post some pictures on Monday. Basically I would need to make an upper and lower brace specifically (at least through the middle section) they would look more or less the same but with some changes. As soon as I have version 2.0 I'll print the braces again, do a final test and release the data to the CNC guy. I also checked on the shock eye to eye distance and it seems like the damn thing is 145mm and the DT XR shock I want to use is going to be 152mm. I'll need some reducers for that too.
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