Not a '70's Moser, But Now a Dead One
- Thread starter Skynet
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Skynet
Senior Retro Guru
Skynet
Senior Retro Guru
Re: Not a '70's Moser
Thanks.
Just ordered new decals from Cyclomondo, asking on another thread whether it's best to put them under or over the clear coat. Under sounds fine until you scratch one. If it is under then sending it off for repair (or not) and paint will be delayed until they arrive. I'm not a very patient person so hope the consensus is over
Thanks.
Just ordered new decals from Cyclomondo, asking on another thread whether it's best to put them under or over the clear coat. Under sounds fine until you scratch one. If it is under then sending it off for repair (or not) and paint will be delayed until they arrive. I'm not a very patient person so hope the consensus is over
Skynet
Senior Retro Guru
Re: Not a '70's Moser
As the plan is to use it with both flats and drops by swapping the front end, I polished up the purple SS7's for flat use. I originally thought about polishing both the blades and the bodies but as the adjuster screws are just black plastic I decided to just polish the blades.
Thought it was a good time to try out the 3M polishing sheets, I have 400 up to 8000 grit. I used normal wet and dry for the main sanding (800, 1500, 2000 for this) then used 4000 and 8000 3M sheets. Really nice to use on curved items as they feel like j-cloths. Pretty expensive although I've read they can be washed and reused a load of times. Finished up with Peek and Final Shine.
Took 3-4 hours, far longer than the pedals for example, even though they are NOS. It's not the polishing that takes the time as such it's removing the high and, especially, lows but doing it so you don't take too much off or change the shape. Often you get both highs and lows around mould marks even if they look smooth.
You can obviously just use a courser grit and take metal off more quickly but I'm only polishing a few bits, an extra hour or so and no deep sanding marks to remove makes it worth using a finer grit to me.
As the plan is to use it with both flats and drops by swapping the front end, I polished up the purple SS7's for flat use. I originally thought about polishing both the blades and the bodies but as the adjuster screws are just black plastic I decided to just polish the blades.
Thought it was a good time to try out the 3M polishing sheets, I have 400 up to 8000 grit. I used normal wet and dry for the main sanding (800, 1500, 2000 for this) then used 4000 and 8000 3M sheets. Really nice to use on curved items as they feel like j-cloths. Pretty expensive although I've read they can be washed and reused a load of times. Finished up with Peek and Final Shine.
Took 3-4 hours, far longer than the pedals for example, even though they are NOS. It's not the polishing that takes the time as such it's removing the high and, especially, lows but doing it so you don't take too much off or change the shape. Often you get both highs and lows around mould marks even if they look smooth.
You can obviously just use a courser grit and take metal off more quickly but I'm only polishing a few bits, an extra hour or so and no deep sanding marks to remove makes it worth using a finer grit to me.
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Skynet
Senior Retro Guru
Re: Not a '70's Moser
Cleaned the back wheel same as the front, braking surfaces gently scrubbed, just to remove the brake compound, and the top polished. Obviously no sanding of rims although if they had a small scratch type dink and the edges were raised I probably would have taken those off. Few finger smudges in the pic.
Will quickly go over both tops again with felt polishing pads, when they arrive, and Final Shine.
The block, an Everest Nova, hardly seems used, but need a lower gear, it's a 14-21, so will be looking for a 13/14-28.
That's the non-anodised parts cleaned and polished. The anodised parts really just need a wipe over once removed, plus there's the usual re-greasing etc.
The only things I'm half tempted to strip and polish are the stem and bar centre sleeve. They don't need it but would then match the polished seatpost. No rush to decide.
Cleaned the back wheel same as the front, braking surfaces gently scrubbed, just to remove the brake compound, and the top polished. Obviously no sanding of rims although if they had a small scratch type dink and the edges were raised I probably would have taken those off. Few finger smudges in the pic.
Will quickly go over both tops again with felt polishing pads, when they arrive, and Final Shine.
The block, an Everest Nova, hardly seems used, but need a lower gear, it's a 14-21, so will be looking for a 13/14-28.
That's the non-anodised parts cleaned and polished. The anodised parts really just need a wipe over once removed, plus there's the usual re-greasing etc.
The only things I'm half tempted to strip and polish are the stem and bar centre sleeve. They don't need it but would then match the polished seatpost. No rush to decide.
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