Lacing your own wheels ...
- Thread starter k-rod
- Start date
Hmm - interesting info, Syncrosfan. I'll have a more careful look (at the inter-changeability of the internals).
That said, I'm not totally hung up on retaining the XT label on all the components (although a small part of me is saying "EEK - DX, and not XT!), but its worth a gander at sitching them up like that. Funny thing is ... I'm almost of two minds: part of me is nervous about the challenge of a wheel build, and the other part is welcoming the challenge of doing it as a new experience.
One reason why I am leaning toward lacing the new DX hubs into the rims, tho, is because the XT hubs are now 25 yrs old, and have prrovided me wtih 25 years of solid service ... but the spoke holes in the hub flanges are certainly showing some signs of wear and enlargement ... so perhaps it is time to gracefully retire them, and thank the Shimano XT gods for all that they have provided us with ... ?
That said, I'm not totally hung up on retaining the XT label on all the components (although a small part of me is saying "EEK - DX, and not XT!), but its worth a gander at sitching them up like that. Funny thing is ... I'm almost of two minds: part of me is nervous about the challenge of a wheel build, and the other part is welcoming the challenge of doing it as a new experience.
One reason why I am leaning toward lacing the new DX hubs into the rims, tho, is because the XT hubs are now 25 yrs old, and have prrovided me wtih 25 years of solid service ... but the spoke holes in the hub flanges are certainly showing some signs of wear and enlargement ... so perhaps it is time to gracefully retire them, and thank the Shimano XT gods for all that they have provided us with ... ?
Re:
You can transfer the hubs and spokes from one rim to another without having to take them apart completely and then re-lace.
Just slacken off all the nipples, align the old wheel next to the 'new' rim then undo one nipple at a time and fit it (and the spoke!) to the adjacent hole in the 'new' rim and gradually work your way around
Then you can pop it in your jig to true and tension or take it to your LBS and the job will cost much less as you've already built the wheel, so they should just charge to true/tension
You can gauge the tension in a spoke by 'pinging' it and listening to the note; compare with a well built wheel ...and ping all-round the wheel/spokes to gauge even tension.
Cheers
You can transfer the hubs and spokes from one rim to another without having to take them apart completely and then re-lace.
Just slacken off all the nipples, align the old wheel next to the 'new' rim then undo one nipple at a time and fit it (and the spoke!) to the adjacent hole in the 'new' rim and gradually work your way around
Then you can pop it in your jig to true and tension or take it to your LBS and the job will cost much less as you've already built the wheel, so they should just charge to true/tension
You can gauge the tension in a spoke by 'pinging' it and listening to the note; compare with a well built wheel ...and ping all-round the wheel/spokes to gauge even tension.
Cheers
syncrosfan
Senior Retro Guru
"I for one never speak to anyone who doesn't have at least XT on everything...DX and you are dead to me... "
XT? bah! XTR or nothing! Sadly enough I just noticed that all my bikes have full XTR for the drive-train (except for one that's Sram X0)... talking about being a snob.
Re-lacing the wheels shouldn't be a real problem, will take a while though (swapping hub internals could be a lot faster if they're compatible, then again if you're not in a hurry go ahead).
"It's more like £50 over this side of the pond... :shock:" OK, I was a little misleading, I got mine slightly used off e-bay for 30$, less money than new and works a charm.
"XT? bah! XTR or nothing! Sadly enough I just noticed that all my bikes have full XTR for the drive-train (except for one that's Sram X0)... talking about being a snob.
Re-lacing the wheels shouldn't be a real problem, will take a while though (swapping hub internals could be a lot faster if they're compatible, then again if you're not in a hurry go ahead).
"It's more like £50 over this side of the pond... :shock:" OK, I was a little misleading, I got mine slightly used off e-bay for 30$, less money than new and works a charm.
re: swapping the 'hub internals' - aren't the inside bearing races integral to the actual hub itself (I thought they were); and if the are, how on earth can one 'swap' them over?
It's the inside bearing race in the rear hub, that is in the worst condition (pitted/notchy etc).
It's the inside bearing race in the rear hub, that is in the worst condition (pitted/notchy etc).
syncrosfan
Senior Retro Guru
"It's the inside bearing race in the rear hub, that is in the worst condition (pitted/notchy etc)."
In that case your hubs are fukked. I didn't know where the issues with them were. Just re-lace them. You could take off the axles and freehub off the old XT hubs in case you need spares though.
In that case your hubs are fukked. I didn't know where the issues with them were. Just re-lace them. You could take off the axles and freehub off the old XT hubs in case you need spares though.
LittleSkink
Retro Guru
I would start on a front wheel - much less complex
Building up so the same amount of thread is in (or out) of the nipples gets you fairly close to even tension on a front wheel - you'll be doing snowflakes before you know it
Building up so the same amount of thread is in (or out) of the nipples gets you fairly close to even tension on a front wheel - you'll be doing snowflakes before you know it
