Help with Spin Wheels

[mr_yogi]

Hi,
I got some amazing advice on here before that lead to my Pace forks being rebuilt, so now I have a new question.

I have a set of Spin Thermoplastic Carbon wheels, which I love. I've had them from new, which must have been about 20 years ago. The hubs haven't been serviced for well over 10 years (used a bike shop), although the bike hasn't been used much for the past 6 years or so.

I have decided to clean them up and re grease them, however I've found precious little on how to service these things. I found a post on another forum stating that the hubs were made by Hadley (and that they hold no spare parts :cry: ), and I’ve read that Hadley hub are quite specific on the oil and grease used for the internals. Does anyone know if the hubs in the Spin wheels have such stringent requirements for specific grease and/ or oil?

Also does anyone know which tools are required to pull these things apart, as I don’t currently have any tools suitable.

On the list so far are; a chain whip and cassette removal tool to remove the (Shimano XT) 8 speed cassette, and a 21mm (got to check this) cone spanner. I also have to check if the hubs need a normal spanner or the twin pronged pin spanner (Park Tools SPA-2) jobbie to release them. I've read that Rock n Roll Super Web Grease is very good, however I have no idea about the oil if it's required. Is there anything needed?

If anyone knows of a YouTube or similar video that would be amazing

 

[TSC.]

Re:

I know a shop near me serviced some Spins a few years ago. It was Partridge Cycles near Exeter. I know they sourced new bearings locally, but that's as much as I do know.

It might be worth ringing them to see if they remember doing it or whoever did it is still there.

Bit of a long shot, but it might be worth a try.

 

[Factory Jackson]

Replaced the bearings on a pair of mine earlier in the year

They were probably the easiest bearings I've replaced on a pair of wheels ever.

The set i replaced were the ones with the hex bolt as opposed to ones with the pin hole remover you have the tool for. My other set are the ones with the pin holes, but i've not needed to do them yet.

The axle unscrews on itself. Dead easy to pull the bearings out with a blind bearing puller, then simply a case of pressing a new pair in. Cant remember off the top of my head what bearing number they were, but you should be able to find out when you pull them out.

As for the freehub, again, dead easy to clean up and grease. Make sure you keep this in good condition and regularly serviced as finding replacement freehubs for Spins will not be easy.

Alternatively a really easy job for you LBD.

If you get really stuck, get some pics up and I'll run you through it.

cheers
Chris

 

[mr_yogi]

Re:

Many thanks for the replies. So from inspecting my front wheel I can't see any holes for a pin spanner and there is only one surface suitable for a spanner which is on the hub itself. I assume I must have the same ones as you have recently serviced.

Do I just stick hex keys in the Axel holes and turn them together to release them? As one side takes a 5mm hex key really snug, the other has a tiny bit of play with the 5mm. I assume they are both supposed to take the same size hex keys?

Cheers

Kristin

 

[Factory Jackson]

Re: Re:

Many thanks for the replies. So from inspecting my front wheel I can't see any holes for a pin spanner and there is only one surface suitable for a spanner which is on the hub itself. I assume I must have the same ones as you have recently serviced.

Do I just stick hex keys in the Axel holes and turn them together to release them? As one side takes a 5mm hex key really snug, the other has a tiny bit of play with the 5mm. I assume they are both supposed to take the same size hex keys?

Cheers

Kristin

Here's my front with the two holes for reference.

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

If yours is NOT like this, then carry on reading. I've just done a full strip down on my set that by your description sounds the same and taken photos to (hopefully) show you how to do it. I've done my rear wheel for you as that's the most complicated.

1) Remove wheel from bike (duh). Remove skewer. Remove cassette.

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

2) 5mm allen key each side inserted into the axle. Rotate 1 or both counter clockwise looking side on (usual un-threading)

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

3) The axle can be pulled out. The freehub will more than likely come off with it.

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

4) For this stage, ideally you will need a bearing puller. I've got this blind bearing puller. They can be picked up off EBay for about £20-50 depending on how many sized attachments it has and its quality. Something like this is a god send for any bike mechanic http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inner-Bearing ... SwyQtVkkJk

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

5) Remove bearings. If you cant get hold of a puller you should be able to get a blunt screwdriver in from the opposite side and hammer it out.

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

You'll notice inside there is an aluminium spacer/rod separating the two bearings.

The bearings you need are 6001 2rs (2 per wheel)

6) Give the hub surfaces a good clean prior to inserting the new bearings. Add a thin film of grease to help them slide home.

7) To insert the new bearings again the right tools for the job make it so much easier. I've got this Enduro Bearing press.

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

Simply insert the bearings, each side at a time, taking care not to over tighten but making sure you drive them home.

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

The spacer/rod in the middle will ensure they cant over-tighten and wreck your wheel. Don't worry too much at this stage if it's not 100% centred.

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

Give the freehub a good clean. Then a sparing application of grease on the pawls. These can be taken out simply by carefully removing the out circular spring. Check the bearings in the freehub. I these are in need of replacement I can cover that too, but more than likely they should be sound.

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

9) Refit the freehub. Simply slide on. Dont force it. If it does bind slightly rotate counter clockwise to allow the pawls to retract to pass over the seal.

10) To fefit the axle. First have a look through the hub to see if the spacer/rod is aligned. If not it can be gentle 'persuaded' to align using an allen key etc prior to inserting the axle.
Fit it all back in and nip up. Again, don't go crazy and over-tighten.

Untitled by FactoryJackson, on Flickr

11) Refit cassette, skewer and put back on bike.

12) Go for a ride and enjoy.

The front wheel is exactly the same, just without the need to do anything with a freehub.

Like I say, really straight forward and hopefully the above description helps.

cheers
Chris

.

 

[mr_yogi]

Hi,

Many thanks for the detailed post, that's fantastic. I do have the wheels as you've detailed above.

I'll get ordering my parts. Do you have any recommendations as to which 6001 2rs bearing to use or avoid and grease suitable for the job?

Cheers

 

[Factory Jackson]

Hi,

Many thanks for the detailed post, that's fantastic. I do have the wheels as you've detailed above.

I'll get ordering my parts. Do you have any recommendations as to which 6001 2rs bearing to use or avoid and grease suitable for the job?

Cheers

No worries. Glad it was helpful.

I've always used Enduro bearings.

Best place is probably someone like Simply Bearings.
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p2000 ... _info.html

For grease I tend to use Silkolene Pro RG2 grease for most jobs. Have a big tub and it's lasted me years.

hope that helps
Chris

 

[designer1]

Re:

I have the two hole hub in my spin rear wheel, and id like to know how to remove the actual hub from the wheel if possible please?

I've heard that the hubs can be swapped out, so have a front hub i'd like to put in its place ideally.
I've got the Park SPA2 tool, to locate into the holes, but it all seems very tight (presuming its a standard counter-clockwise to undo)???

Am i missing something?
Any help would be great please - pix of drive side and non drive side now attached

Thanks in advance...

 

[designer1]

anyone please?

 

[Timoth27]

Re:

Hi, if memory serves me (it’s never need great mind) you have the original wheels which have the hubs glued in and so can’t be removed I’m afraid. Unfortunately they where also prone to coming unstuck. I know this because I had to warranty my original set. It’s also why they redesigned the hub.