Frame respray paint selection

i have done a bit of painting, and its turned out decently but not exactly on the same scale. Ill give it a go with the spray.bike stuff and see how it goes. with a bit of luck it will hold up ok. i guess ill put it up on here when im done :)
thanks for the help!
-max
 
Re:

It's possible to get a finish as good as factory.Just depends on your skill with a can and how much patience you've got.Once you've got decent paint (I normally warm it in a bucket of water and try to warm whatever I'm painting too),and a warm,draught and dust free environment,then it's all down to surface prep.Assuming you've removed all the rust/loose paint.
Degrease-I use brake cleaner or similar solvent on lint free cloth.
Prime,let it dry properly,gently wet flat with say 1000 grit wet n dry paper.Try not to take off all the primer (obviously!) but don't worry too much if it wears through in places.Rubber gloves a good idea as it gets messy and you don't want greasy fingermarks on the paint.Once it's nice and smooth,wipe off all the residue and prime again.Repeat this until you're happy that every imperfection/orange peel has gone.
You can use a high build primer to speed up this process or if there are deep chips/scratches but be careful not to overdo it.Too much paint can be a bad thing.
Same process for topcoat and lacquer although I find once the primer's been done to a good standard the rest of the paint goes on so much smoother and requires less flatting.
It takes time and patience but basically the better you are at spraying the less time you'll spend flatting.
 
Re: Re:

captaincowelly":1cj4vhwa said:
It's possible to get a finish as good as factory.Just depends on your skill with a can and how much patience you've got.Once you've got decent paint (I normally warm it in a bucket of water and try to warm whatever I'm painting too),and a warm,draught and dust free environment,then it's all down to surface prep.Assuming you've removed all the rust/loose paint.
Degrease-I use brake cleaner or similar solvent on lint free cloth.
Prime,let it dry properly,gently wet flat with say 1000 grit wet n dry paper.Try not to take off all the primer (obviously!) but don't worry too much if it wears through in places.Rubber gloves a good idea as it gets messy and you don't want greasy fingermarks on the paint.Once it's nice and smooth,wipe off all the residue and prime again.Repeat this until you're happy that every imperfection/orange peel has gone.
You can use a high build primer to speed up this process or if there are deep chips/scratches but be careful not to overdo it.Too much paint can be a bad thing.
Same process for topcoat and lacquer although I find once the primer's been done to a good standard the rest of the paint goes on so much smoother and requires less flatting.
It takes time and patience but basically the better you are at spraying the less time you'll spend flatting.

Love the info. You and me are heading for a geek off.

I've done a few frames recently with translucent ink over a base coat over black enamel exactly as quality frames used to be done. The ink takes a bit of practice to get flat but the finished product looks amazing.
 
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:LOL: Thanks Sully!Sounds like we're on the same page. Just trying to drum up some votes for Geek of the Month!Definitely no expert myself but fortunate enough to have known a few over the years who have passed on info/skills. Like the sound of the old school ink/enamel work,not familiar with that method.If you have any pics would be interested to see.
And hillmy,as far as lacquer goes (and other paints),I use U-POL.Just because that's what the paint shop stocks.And I'm on commission....... :D
 
Hillmy - spray.bike do their own lacquer for their products. I wouldn't try using any other as their stuff is more like powdercoat than paint. I think it's all on amazon or you can go to their website and find a supplier (and I'm not on commission but it gets me thinking!)

If you decide against using their stuff it depends on what paint you get. If it's 2k paint you need 2k varnish. If it's Valspar the choices are a bit more etc. Just come back on here and we'll help guide you. No rush....give the primer/paint 24 hours rest at least

I don't want to confuse you even more but you can also use acrylic paints used by graffiti artists. Montana Gold etc.
 
CaptainCowelly - just completing a Raleigh Lenton Sports so I'll upload pics in the next couple of days!
 
In my experience prep is key. You do good prep work you get a good finish so the more time spent rubbing down/flatting off between coats the better.
I have used enamel spray before on frames, this can bbought from Wilkinson or other hardware stores. It can be a pain to put on well though. Once you've had a bit of practice with primer the enamel stuff should be easy enough. As its enamel it's more hard wearing, not as many colours to choose from is the only drawback imo.
Just remember the more time taken to prep your surface the better your results will be.

Leigh
 
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