do they think we're dumb? well i suppose they do.

90% of my riding involves riding up gravel roads and then down pretty gnarly descents that need ground clearance and not much in the way of pedalling. So for me, 1x10 with a 30t NW ring and no bash guard or chain guide is awesome. I've not dropped a chain since I installed the set-up and if I needed lower gears I'd be faster walking. I totally get that if you are riding canal paths or the Kamikazee DH you might want a different set-up. It's not 'dumb' though.
 
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All down to fitness.
I went a whole year without using my granny ring (on a 2x10 set-up) so will be ditching it when I build my new bike up in favour of a 1x10.
I've run 1x9 all through the winter and didn't miss the extra gears at all.
I find it focuses me on getting up hills quicker as I don't have the option to just sit and spin.
Saying that, I'll be keeping the 2x10 set up until after I've done the SDW later this month!
 
I can totally see the point of 1x10, especially as my local trails are pretty flat.

you only need 40t+ for nailing fireroads (get a road bike if you want to bomb along smooth surfaces) and you only need a 20t for riding up walls.

Any lower than 32:32 and it's probably easier to walk anyway
 
I did try 1x9 (11-32 and a 35 up front). It was fine for short rides but on endurance stuff/racing it really blew my knees to bits on the climbs so I stuck a granny back on.

Like everything it's horses for courses but we shouldn't feel like we HAVE to change just because it's all over the mags...if 3x10 works then stick with it!
 
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I gave this more thought while out riding tonight.
Of all the developments in mountain bike technology, I think this is one of the best.
I've always thought that mountain bikes have far too many gears.
18 was too many when I bought my first MTB back in 1989, and the 30 of modern bikes is an absolute joke.
To me, simplest is best.
What is the point in having so many ratios, that in many cases overlap, plus an extra mech and shifter (which reached it's peak with the friction thumbie).
I've yet to try a clutch rear mech and narrow/wide chainring, but if they work as well as I've heard, then what's the issue?
It all sounds like a well though out and engineered solution, which should simplify bike riding and maintenance.
 
Could someone explain narrow wide chainrings and clutch rear mech/hub to me please ? Seriously , I'm not taking the p

Mike
 
Mike Muz 67":299ph42n said:
Could someone explain narrow wide chainrings and clutch rear mech/hub to me please ? Seriously , I'm not taking the p

Mike

The clutch rear mech, put simply, puts greater tension in the chain (kind of like a chain tensioner).
The narrow/wide rings are machined to 'grip' a chain, by having teeth that have a profile that follows that of the chain.
It's all so simple, I just wish I'd thought of it :roll:
 
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Mike Muz 67":22b8mr6s said:
Thanks , have you sent your frame off now BTW ?

I have indeed!
They say it'll be 2 weeks tops, so I'm hoping it'll be less.
I have someone lined up for the clear-coat and I have a few decals here waiting to go on too.
I'm hoping to have it ready to ride at 24/12 at the end of the month :D
 
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Cool , look forward to seeing the final finish :cool:
Maybe do your SDW ride on it too ! ;)
 
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