What mountain bikes did you own BITD?
- Thread starter dirttorpedo
- Start date
1988 Raleigh Mustang 19" my commute to school and paper round bike. Must have covered a few thousand miles in its life. Frame got replaced under Raleigh warranty in 1993 as the rear cantilever boss snapped off. Frame replacement was a blue 1989 Magnum. Still have it at the folks.
1989 Saracen Tuff Trax 18" sold in 1992 regrettably, to a neighbour's grandson, who then had it stolen.
1991 Saracen Limited Edition 18" sadly, stolen in 1992
1992 Kona Lavadome 19" bought with Saracen LE insurance. Still own.
1998 GT Talera 18" bought frame as a shop clearance in 2002 and built as commuter. Still own.
Since 2009 when I found RB:
1989 Raleigh 531 Thunder Road f+f now built with mixed Shimano and 6sp.
1991 Kona Lavadome 20" frame, not currently built.
1989 Saracen Tuff Trax 20". Bought second hand in 2015.
1989 Saracen Tuff Trax 18" sold in 1992 regrettably, to a neighbour's grandson, who then had it stolen.
1991 Saracen Limited Edition 18" sadly, stolen in 1992
1992 Kona Lavadome 19" bought with Saracen LE insurance. Still own.
1998 GT Talera 18" bought frame as a shop clearance in 2002 and built as commuter. Still own.
Since 2009 when I found RB:
1989 Raleigh 531 Thunder Road f+f now built with mixed Shimano and 6sp.
1991 Kona Lavadome 20" frame, not currently built.
1989 Saracen Tuff Trax 20". Bought second hand in 2015.
denco.h1e
Dirt Disciple
1986 Muddy Fox Courier - sold.
1990 GT Karakoram K2 - sold frame & forks.
1991 Trimble I-4 - built using the GT's running gear. Still got and soon to be refreshed.
1993 Orange Vitamin T - still got.
1999 Trek VRX400 - sold, quite quickly.
2003 Santa Cruz Blur - still got and still a fantastic ride.
2010 Genesis IO ID - still got. Alfine hub makes for easy maintenance on gloopy mud rides.
Plus a few newer bikes that have joined the line up.
1990 GT Karakoram K2 - sold frame & forks.
1991 Trimble I-4 - built using the GT's running gear. Still got and soon to be refreshed.
1993 Orange Vitamin T - still got.
1999 Trek VRX400 - sold, quite quickly.
2003 Santa Cruz Blur - still got and still a fantastic ride.
2010 Genesis IO ID - still got. Alfine hub makes for easy maintenance on gloopy mud rides.
Plus a few newer bikes that have joined the line up.
Staabi70
Retro Newbie
January 1987 - Kettler Adventure S, my first mountainbike (sold)
late 1987 - a second, red and rare Kettler Adventure S, the first then became my commuter bike (sold)
1988 - Koga Miyata Terra Runner (stolen)
1988 - Koga Miyata Exerciser Roadbike (sold)
1989 - Koga Miyata Ridge Runner (warranty)
1989 - a second Koga Miyata Ridge Runner after the first one developed cracks (probably only paint) on the top tube (sold)
1990 - Cannondale M800 Frame. Lost his downtube after three months (broke at the downtube/headtube weld, frame was appaerantly not heat treated) (warranty)
1991 - Yeti For Racing Only (still have this one)
1991 - Yeti Treefrog (one of around 12 build, sadly sold in around 1997)
1992 - Trek 2300 (?) Carbon/Aluminium Roadbike. Neon Green with Neon Yellow. Great looking bike (sold)
1993 - Yeti ARC (sold)
1995 - Yeti ARC AS LT (sold)
1995 - Breezer Venturi Roadbike (sold)
1997 - Hot Chili Full Suspension (frame cracked)
1998 - Trek Y (why did I buy this one... - sold)
since then I lost track a bit... at the moment, mostly riding my 1985 Muddy Fox "The Monarch" Resto-Mod, my "kinda custom" Sour Gravelbike with Fox 32TC fork (one of three existing suspension specific Sour gravel frames) and my Kona Unit Bikepacking build. Oh, and my Focus Jam2 eMTB and a 2020 Cannondale 105/rimbrake Roadbike on Zwift (blasphemy!)
late 1987 - a second, red and rare Kettler Adventure S, the first then became my commuter bike (sold)
1988 - Koga Miyata Terra Runner (stolen)
1988 - Koga Miyata Exerciser Roadbike (sold)
1989 - Koga Miyata Ridge Runner (warranty)
1989 - a second Koga Miyata Ridge Runner after the first one developed cracks (probably only paint) on the top tube (sold)
1990 - Cannondale M800 Frame. Lost his downtube after three months (broke at the downtube/headtube weld, frame was appaerantly not heat treated) (warranty)
1991 - Yeti For Racing Only (still have this one)
1991 - Yeti Treefrog (one of around 12 build, sadly sold in around 1997)
1992 - Trek 2300 (?) Carbon/Aluminium Roadbike. Neon Green with Neon Yellow. Great looking bike (sold)
1993 - Yeti ARC (sold)
1995 - Yeti ARC AS LT (sold)
1995 - Breezer Venturi Roadbike (sold)
1997 - Hot Chili Full Suspension (frame cracked)
1998 - Trek Y (why did I buy this one... - sold)
since then I lost track a bit... at the moment, mostly riding my 1985 Muddy Fox "The Monarch" Resto-Mod, my "kinda custom" Sour Gravelbike with Fox 32TC fork (one of three existing suspension specific Sour gravel frames) and my Kona Unit Bikepacking build. Oh, and my Focus Jam2 eMTB and a 2020 Cannondale 105/rimbrake Roadbike on Zwift (blasphemy!)
TheRadioGuyUK
Dirt Disciple
My first off-roader was a modded (self modded) 10 sod ex-racer which I laced in two 8LS drum brakes I had lying around that originally came of a Bonneville MSS motorcycle - literally overkill stopping power, but the bike was still light enough, steered nicely with a slightly downward bend straight bar and a modified gear selector.
My next was a Peugeot Lion Bike 15 spd, which is entirely forgettable as it was used and very much a rat bike I should have avoided.
After the PLB disaster (all the case hardening on the cogs/chainring was ancient history so rapidly the driveline wore out), I bought a new steel framed Diamondback 21-spd (it was the top of the line, model name escapes my aging grey matter, but NOS when I found it in the bargain buys at the store I started using). My first radio bike, only modded with better tyres (some overkill American off-road items) and a home built holder for either a handheld CB (a Realistic 1003 modded for CEPT and UK FM and to allow a plug in speaker mic) or my Alinco DJ-191 VHF handheld, both using supplied helical so no added antenna mounts used.
Next up, the Univega Alpina 500 SE ‘tank’ which is detailed in a different thread, which became an extreme dual usage mobile/field radio station.
Next up - an alu/cromomy hybrid tubing framed CB MTB (forget which model but was 21spd) that I optimised to build a road/trail/ice mostly road oriented race bike that gradually became another radio bike.
Next up, a very light (seemingly featherweight by bicycle standards) GT frame I somehow ended up with, which ended up with a triple ring crank set (66/44/33) hybrid main drive using parts from the CB (bottom bracket, forks, bar, other mounting hardware), the now very old 8LS drums threaded into 26 inch rims (which seriously complicated the chain angle) using campag spec equivalent rings and a sachs PG/derailleur gear rear hub I brute forced into fitting the rear 8LS drum brake, but the external gear cogs were replaced (with lots of migraine inducing spell attempts) with 8 sod campag cog set. Using a microcontroller and push buttons for triggers, and torque sensing on the cranks (a diy unique setup) you used the chainring and rear derailleurs which were servo activated via up and down push buttons and the torque sensing, via microcontroller and servo activation auto selected the internal PG component of the Sachs hybrid hub - best way to think of is as the road equivalent to CSP on propeller aircraft (where I got the idea from - translating it to a constant speed base ratio control or final drive, depending on how you view it, was literally an exercise that would cause premature hair greying and hair loss back in the 90s). This hybrid street race bike primarily also evolved into a radio bike. Ultimately it was more custom than anything. The CB frame carcass ending up being cut up for tubes for my backyard radio mast.
After a while, as my legs and health started deteriorating, I migrated to a race spec enduro motorcycle which started yet another round of extreme modding and became a go anywhere mobile/field radio bike and commuter rig. The GT hybrid I donated to a neighbour’s kid, less the radios and radio related hardware, but retained the CSP inspired custom driveline setup - which probably raised many eyebrows if it ever got taken into a shop for servicing…..
So whilst the bicycle ownership was checkered, colourful and borderline insane in how I utilised the bicycles, the whole experience was greater than the sum of the parts, taught me a lot about solving problems with an engineering mindset but an experience I wouldn’t change in any part if I could relive the early 90s-early 2K years.
Anyone who claims to never have made a bad mistake is not someone you take advice from, when it comes to buying, as the best of us and the majority of honest ex and current cyclists all dropped a clanger at least once in a buying decision - as with owning any vehicle it goes with the territory. With any luck, when you do drop a piano sized clanger, you can still recover some value even if it’s just spares you’ll maybe use or mod for a different project.
My next was a Peugeot Lion Bike 15 spd, which is entirely forgettable as it was used and very much a rat bike I should have avoided.
After the PLB disaster (all the case hardening on the cogs/chainring was ancient history so rapidly the driveline wore out), I bought a new steel framed Diamondback 21-spd (it was the top of the line, model name escapes my aging grey matter, but NOS when I found it in the bargain buys at the store I started using). My first radio bike, only modded with better tyres (some overkill American off-road items) and a home built holder for either a handheld CB (a Realistic 1003 modded for CEPT and UK FM and to allow a plug in speaker mic) or my Alinco DJ-191 VHF handheld, both using supplied helical so no added antenna mounts used.
Next up, the Univega Alpina 500 SE ‘tank’ which is detailed in a different thread, which became an extreme dual usage mobile/field radio station.
Next up - an alu/cromomy hybrid tubing framed CB MTB (forget which model but was 21spd) that I optimised to build a road/trail/ice mostly road oriented race bike that gradually became another radio bike.
Next up, a very light (seemingly featherweight by bicycle standards) GT frame I somehow ended up with, which ended up with a triple ring crank set (66/44/33) hybrid main drive using parts from the CB (bottom bracket, forks, bar, other mounting hardware), the now very old 8LS drums threaded into 26 inch rims (which seriously complicated the chain angle) using campag spec equivalent rings and a sachs PG/derailleur gear rear hub I brute forced into fitting the rear 8LS drum brake, but the external gear cogs were replaced (with lots of migraine inducing spell attempts) with 8 sod campag cog set. Using a microcontroller and push buttons for triggers, and torque sensing on the cranks (a diy unique setup) you used the chainring and rear derailleurs which were servo activated via up and down push buttons and the torque sensing, via microcontroller and servo activation auto selected the internal PG component of the Sachs hybrid hub - best way to think of is as the road equivalent to CSP on propeller aircraft (where I got the idea from - translating it to a constant speed base ratio control or final drive, depending on how you view it, was literally an exercise that would cause premature hair greying and hair loss back in the 90s). This hybrid street race bike primarily also evolved into a radio bike. Ultimately it was more custom than anything. The CB frame carcass ending up being cut up for tubes for my backyard radio mast.
After a while, as my legs and health started deteriorating, I migrated to a race spec enduro motorcycle which started yet another round of extreme modding and became a go anywhere mobile/field radio bike and commuter rig. The GT hybrid I donated to a neighbour’s kid, less the radios and radio related hardware, but retained the CSP inspired custom driveline setup - which probably raised many eyebrows if it ever got taken into a shop for servicing…..
So whilst the bicycle ownership was checkered, colourful and borderline insane in how I utilised the bicycles, the whole experience was greater than the sum of the parts, taught me a lot about solving problems with an engineering mindset but an experience I wouldn’t change in any part if I could relive the early 90s-early 2K years.
Anyone who claims to never have made a bad mistake is not someone you take advice from, when it comes to buying, as the best of us and the majority of honest ex and current cyclists all dropped a clanger at least once in a buying decision - as with owning any vehicle it goes with the territory. With any luck, when you do drop a piano sized clanger, you can still recover some value even if it’s just spares you’ll maybe use or mod for a different project.
Guinessisgoodforyou
rBotM Winner
I've never seen an eight leading shoe single sided drum brake, I've seen a double sided four leading shoe drum brake on the front. I would love to see a picture of the 8LS rear. @27motorhead @Tootyred
TheRadioGuyUK
Dirt Disciple
Hi, well unfortunately i never took any photos of the drum brake units - i think the DS4LS type are similar, probably are similar in both effectiveness and more common - the 8LS units were Girling items if i recall.
The reason the 8LS units are relatively unknown is they were originally designed with race bikes as the target usage, back when disc brakes were not great and really had more technical spec merit than real improvement over decent hi-end drums. In fact, if i recall,the only road bike with 8LS units was the Bonneville MSS and the Bonneville MSS (which the wheels came off) was a short production variant that used a lot of race parts on a final Bonneville variant. So rare, in fact, at the time i had to get brake shoes custom made as NOS spare shoes (where there were any available) were in the hens teeth territory to actually find. Luckily, thanks to friends of family who were in engineering and manufacturing trades, i got a lead on a small firm who would custom make brake parts.
Best analogy i can give to their effectiveness is - keeping in mind that early bicycle disc brakes were about as effective as 1st gen motorcycle disc brakes with a very woodon on-off action and near zero progressive feel, 8LS items (as designed) gave near immediate action response but slightly less oomph in stopping power, but had the progressive feel of decent vented multi-shoe drum brakes.
Given what they were designed for vs what i retrofitted them for, they were the equiv of cracking walnuts with a hydraulic road drill - bloody effective but had to used with caution on a complete bike that was about the weight of a lightweight motorbike frame - or a bit like putting a brake system intended for a 911 Porsche on an 850 Mini overkill.
The reason the 8LS units are relatively unknown is they were originally designed with race bikes as the target usage, back when disc brakes were not great and really had more technical spec merit than real improvement over decent hi-end drums. In fact, if i recall,the only road bike with 8LS units was the Bonneville MSS and the Bonneville MSS (which the wheels came off) was a short production variant that used a lot of race parts on a final Bonneville variant. So rare, in fact, at the time i had to get brake shoes custom made as NOS spare shoes (where there were any available) were in the hens teeth territory to actually find. Luckily, thanks to friends of family who were in engineering and manufacturing trades, i got a lead on a small firm who would custom make brake parts.
Best analogy i can give to their effectiveness is - keeping in mind that early bicycle disc brakes were about as effective as 1st gen motorcycle disc brakes with a very woodon on-off action and near zero progressive feel, 8LS items (as designed) gave near immediate action response but slightly less oomph in stopping power, but had the progressive feel of decent vented multi-shoe drum brakes.
Given what they were designed for vs what i retrofitted them for, they were the equiv of cracking walnuts with a hydraulic road drill - bloody effective but had to used with caution on a complete bike that was about the weight of a lightweight motorbike frame - or a bit like putting a brake system intended for a 911 Porsche on an 850 Mini overkill.
TheRadioGuyUK
Dirt Disciple
The Sorrento was part of the newer lineup that superseded the older DB series my immediate Univega predecessor was part of. I’m told they were a bit lighter, probably were but probably more noticeable when you had to shoulder carry or lift over a gate ‘lighter’ reduction of weight. But I never tried my friend’s newer Sorrento, having already got the Univega, in fact it was a a few months later he turned up with his Sorrento bought out of desperation (His very high end carbon fibre framed Raleigh got stolen, ironically when he was sorting out a payment for insurance renewal).
But I’d guess in practice the Sorrento (and the lineup it was part of) was equally as solid as the older lineup - which were solid enough. In fact the only part of factory fitted parts that let down the older series was the monkey metal quick wear bottom bracket which, in my case developed severe bearing wear inside of one week hard use - but once replace with a decent cartridge BB, never had the problem reoccur. So maybe the newer series had better bottom bracket assembly?
But I’d guess in practice the Sorrento (and the lineup it was part of) was equally as solid as the older lineup - which were solid enough. In fact the only part of factory fitted parts that let down the older series was the monkey metal quick wear bottom bracket which, in my case developed severe bearing wear inside of one week hard use - but once replace with a decent cartridge BB, never had the problem reoccur. So maybe the newer series had better bottom bracket assembly?
Scott-S
Kona Fan
Aye it was never a high end or even middle of the range bike but it was a good enough for how I used it on tracks and the commute and I had a great deal of fun on it.
