Steel frame internal deposits
- Thread starter SilverSurfer
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I have started using Brunox products on my bikes.
For existing rust I use Brunox Epoxy Roststopp- it's a neutralizer/etch primer. Then a coat of Brunox IX100 wax to top it off. It's realy thin and can be sprayed through vent holes and bottle bosses etc.
We have been using Brunox products on the classic cars we look after for the last 6 months and it is brilliant stuff. So good in fact that I've become a stockist.
They also do a product called Turbo Spray that is a much better product that WD40 and GT85. It lasts for ages on chains etc. Another good product that I am trying is a Fork Seal spray. It's designed to soften fork seals and drive out moisture. I've notice a big reduction in stiction on my Maguras too, something they are prone. I'm going to keep trying it for a few months to see what the long term performance is like before giving it the nod though.
For existing rust I use Brunox Epoxy Roststopp- it's a neutralizer/etch primer. Then a coat of Brunox IX100 wax to top it off. It's realy thin and can be sprayed through vent holes and bottle bosses etc.
We have been using Brunox products on the classic cars we look after for the last 6 months and it is brilliant stuff. So good in fact that I've become a stockist.
They also do a product called Turbo Spray that is a much better product that WD40 and GT85. It lasts for ages on chains etc. Another good product that I am trying is a Fork Seal spray. It's designed to soften fork seals and drive out moisture. I've notice a big reduction in stiction on my Maguras too, something they are prone. I'm going to keep trying it for a few months to see what the long term performance is like before giving it the nod though.
SilverSurfer
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Thanks chaps.
Thing I've always wondered with this waxoyl malarky is, how do you know/ensure that you have complete coverage? I always imagine that you are squirting merrily away but only really coating the bits that you can see or access.
Thing I've always wondered with this waxoyl malarky is, how do you know/ensure that you have complete coverage? I always imagine that you are squirting merrily away but only really coating the bits that you can see or access.
You'll know alright - it's quite runny, more so in warm conditions. It comes in varying forms of container, all have a probe of some description. Squirt it in, move the frame about, or leave at different angles over night, the surplus will flow from every orifce - best done as a bare frame, although it cleans off with white spirit easy as anything. Then, ideally top it up with a lighter application every couple of years, as recommended by some of the companies below.
I haven't used Framsaver, but assume it's a similar cavity wax but black, you can get black Waxoyl now, but I prefer the er...wax coloured!
Top frame builders spray cavity wax in their frames from new; Indy Fab, Soulcraft, Roberts and even Singular I believe.
I haven't used Framsaver, but assume it's a similar cavity wax but black, you can get black Waxoyl now, but I prefer the er...wax coloured!
Top frame builders spray cavity wax in their frames from new; Indy Fab, Soulcraft, Roberts and even Singular I believe.
Yeah... it is a thick waxy almost cosmoline like stuff....
On a TIG wlded frame, there is no need for vent holes... On a brazed frame, there is a lot of heat applied for a long time. This heats the air, and causes it to "Blow out" the brazing material... On a TIG welded frame, the heat is applied to a relatively small area for a short period of time, and there just is not much expansion in that time..
On a TIG wlded frame, there is no need for vent holes... On a brazed frame, there is a lot of heat applied for a long time. This heats the air, and causes it to "Blow out" the brazing material... On a TIG welded frame, the heat is applied to a relatively small area for a short period of time, and there just is not much expansion in that time..
SilverSurfer
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Ok you force it everywhere and it drains out, but how do you know everything is covered internally? It could just be streaked about and any gaps could still rust? Or is this just paranoia?
gerryattrick
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You could take it to the hospital if it worries you that much and try and get them to use one of those endoscope cameras inside the tubes.
Or you could just take a chance that it works - you won't do any damage. :roll:
Or you could just take a chance that it works - you won't do any damage. :roll:
Defender
Retro Guru
SilverSurfer":3lgs8iq9 said:
If you keep moving the frame around, rotating it through all angles but giving the fluid time to flow it will find it's way into all the corners.
Waxoyl used to make an extension tube to get into long cavities such as box sections, the alternative is to find some suitable sized piping to use instead?
No I don't think you're being paranoid just want to do it right :!:
If it's a cold day when you do it you could always warm up the 'can' before you start?
