short cranks + petite people

daugs

Senior Retro Guru
Feedback
View
following on from the questions about very small frames viewtopic.php?f=1&t=341956 this is about cranks

now I know there has been some debate on many forums about whether people (average height people typically) can tell the difference between 170 and 175mm cranks. This is more about at the extremes, where just seeing someone of petite stature on an adult bike there can be an issue.

This is all based on the saddle position being based on the pedal position at the bottom of the pedal stroke. A longer crank will mean the saddle is lower, by 1cm if comparing 175 with 165mm cranks. At the the same time the pedal at the top of the stroke will therefore be 2cm closer to the saddle when comparing 175 with 165mm cranks. With longer legs this may not make much difference but is a much bigger impact with smaller legs. This is very different to crank lengths with track bikes etc when a lot is about ground clearance and avoiding pedal strike, bike upright on a banked track etc. There is also the thing on toe overlap when cranks are horizontal on smaller frames. This is also part of the reason for smaller wheels on smaller road frames, 650c instead of 700c. I'm not worried about gearing or the leverage effect, that can all be sorted with changing gear ratios.

So after all that I was wondering whether others had looked at this. Even on the specific women's smaller bikes (the wife's current 14" frame WSD trek for example) the cranks seem to be 170mm which seems as much about mass availability. The reality seems that even if someone wanted 160-165mm cranks (excluding BMX and track) that there are very few alternatives, some of the shimano XT over the years had a 165mm alternative not that have ever seen any and then the old touring sets like TA from the 1970s.

has anybody shorter tried the shorter crank route ?
 
Rather an extreme case in my basement.... My wife and I have been working the last 2 years to get our kids into mountain biking. My 8 year old daughter's been easy, she's tall enough to fit a 15" frame 26" wheel'd bike, so commercial offering work well for her. I don't recall the crank length, but I believe they're 165mm Truvativ offerings....

My 6 year old son, on the other hand, rides an old Norco Eliminator 20" bike. All last season, he struggled on climbs, quite simply didn't have the torque to defeat more than a moderate hill. Looking at his crankset, it was a 140mm plastic coated steal POS, with 2 rings, 36 and 46 teeth, IIRC. So his 1st gear was 36-28. No wonder hills sucked for him.

I looked for some time, but was unable to find what I considered decent small crank offerings of any kind.

I took a beat up old pair of 175mm LX cranks, circa 1995, off a donor bike. I drilled them for a 145mm throw, and with taps borrowed from my LBS, I tapped'em and cut down the excess. I turned the big chainring into a bash guard. A bit of time with the polishing mop, and the job looked pretty good. Tools were hacksaw, drill press, tap set, disk sander, polisher.

Just for fun, I replaced the old Suntour FD with an LX also from the donor frame. Really lightened the shifter action for him, it was impossible before.

Sorry for the shite photos, late night basement lighting, LOL.





J
 
Re:

:) ..... :mrgreen:

sadly don't have such "basement" facilities, given that often complete chainsets are a good source of spare rings, this is something to do with cranks left over though......
 
I have a TA Vega drive side here thats 155mm... you can have it for postage if you want to get a visual idea. sorry not got a left..
 
dablk":1fxji0ej said:
I have a TA Vega drive side here thats 155mm... you can have it for postage if you want to get a visual idea. sorry not got a left..
thanks for the thought but probably a bit modern and would need to source a left, and am encouraged by Spa cycles, which I should have thought of :facepalm: although any chance of a pic

hamster":1fxji0ej said:
Spa cycles do them for around £25 in 5mm increments. I have bought 160&165mm and very nice they are too.
:D

02gf74":1fxji0ej said:
drill and tap the cranks but choose wisely as some cranks are hollow.
any clues as to which ones :lol: although I'd need to check what taps I've got
 
daugs":znd5uiqx said:
02gf74":znd5uiqx said:
drill and tap the cranks but choose wisely as some cranks are hollow.
any clues as to which ones :lol: although I'd need to check what taps I've got


For sure Shimano hollowtech are (the clue is in the name), don't know about the rest. I guess you repeat what archimedes did to measure density.

8610646958_dc1056cb74_c.jpg
 
02gf74":10yxrw93 said:
daugs":10yxrw93 said:
02gf74":10yxrw93 said:
drill and tap the cranks but choose wisely as some cranks are hollow.
any clues as to which ones :lol: although I'd need to check what taps I've got


For sure Shimano hollowtech are (the clue is in the name), don't know about the rest. I guess you repeat what archimedes did to measure density.

8610646958_dc1056cb74_c.jpg

:lol: Thats the reason High Path Engineering do not do Hollowtech II

As quoted off there site :

We cannot shorten

-hollow cranks (eg. Shimano Hollowtech)
-steel cranks
-carbon cranks
-very narrow cranks (narrower than 25mm at the new pedal position)
-deeply fluted cranks (leaving less than 10mm material thickness)
by less than 20mm


The older shimano, TA, Stronglight, Campagnolo ETC Wouldn't be an issue

Carl
 
Back
Top