Orange P7 outlaw build. sort of finished.

[grey-beard]

Frame: 1993 Orange P7 Nickel 19”

Fork: 1995/6 Rock Shox Judy DH

Headset: New Ritchey Logic 1” Threadless
Stem: X-Lite Fly
Handlebar: X-Lite GeForce
Grips: Gripshift
Barends: n/a

Brakes: Shimano XT V Brakes BR-M739
Brake Pads: Clarks red inserts in original XT carriers
Brake Cables: Shimano SLR
Cantilever cable hangers: n/a
Brake Levers: Shimano XT

Shifters: SRAM ESP 700
Front Derailleur: Shimano XTR
Rear Derailleur: SRAM ESP 7.0
Derailleur Cables: Shimano SIS
Cassette: Shimano XT
Chain: Shimano HG71
Cranks: Race Face I-Beam
Crank Bolts: Shimano
Chainrings: Middleburn
Chainring bolts: u/k
Bottom Bracket: Shimano UN72
Pedals: Rob Warner Base Jump

Hub Skewers: Shimano LX
Rims: Mavic 121
Hubs: front Hope, Rear Shimano parallax LX
Nipples: u/k
Spokes: u/k
Tyres: Panaracer Smoke and Dart
Tubes:

Saddle: X-Lite PSS
Seatpost: Orange
Seatpost Binder: Cro-Mo bolt

Weight: 13.5Kg

Ok, I have been looking, on and off, for a P7.
I first looked at them as an option when my Kona AA was stolen back in 1995, but, that was the same time that I had started downhill racing and orange introduced the world to the mighty X1!!!
So I had an X1 rather than a P7.
I still have that X1, but, I never ride it.
It has moved house a few times, even countries, other bikes have come and gone, but the X1 still remains.
It is a little small for me these days, back then I liked my bikes small, BMXey, but now my back, neck, shoulders, prefer a more upright position.
I've acquired a P7 frame, the serial number shows it as a December 1993, nickel plated. From Scant.
The plan was always to simple transfer all the parts from the X1 to a P7 and use it more often.
So that is still the plan.
I'm off to bed now, but here are a few pics of the frame.
It's in better condition than I had expected, just need a good clean, polish, new decals and a wax?
Not very exciting, but it's what I've got.
I may need some tips on dealing with the frame, polishing and sealing wise, I'd rather not clear coat it, just wax, is that ok?

 

[grey-beard]

and here is the donor bike, The Orang e X1.

 

[MCsanandreas]

The Orange looks good. Seems a shame to split it? Also what is the Kawasaki? I am going to guess a GT due to the shocks on it.....

 

[grey-beard]

The Orange looks good. Seems a shame to split it? Also what is the Kawasaki? I am going to guess a GT due to the shocks on it.....

It is a shame to split it, but I don't ride it anymore, I won't get rid of the frame, know one would want it anyway, and if I don't get on with the P7 then I can always go back.
It's a GT750, it was a winter project about 2 years ago, that is on the list of things to get rid of too. Interested?

 

[2manyoranges]

Lovely P7 - an Orange favourite and the one classic Orange which I have retained. Best treatment is Spontex cleaning balls (stainless steel swarf balls from any supermarket in the kitchen cleaning aisle) and GT85. Don’t use wire wool, just don’t. The chemistry is simple - the Spontex removes the rust through abrasion, without damaging the nickel, and the silicon in the GT85 leaches into the rust pits and repels water. It’s a simple, cheap and surprisingly enduring approach. There are some great build threads on here which have used this approach to very good effect.

 

[grey-beard]

do you mean these things? They won't damage the nickel? They look pretty vicious to me.

 

[PeterPerfect]

In my experience, nickel can be a right PITA to clean up.

 

[2manyoranges]

Yep those are they. For sure you need to be a bit careful as in all restoration work, but it works brilliantly. ISHAY did a fantastic job using this method last year - but here are some approaches:

Project P7 ...

Re: So with the frame more or less stripped of parts it was time to address the shitty clear coat and rust issues The clearcoat had yellowed, crazed and chipped allowing water in creating rust scabs ...of which there were many :facepalm: Previously, i'd tried this Dial paint...

www.retrobike.co.uk

And

Orange P7 1995

After posting my last build at the end of the work (viewtopic.php?f=6&t=408488) I thought I'd start my next one at the beginning, so sorry, it'll be going a while. It's also not going to be as much of a perfect rebuild for a few reasons, one of which is I feel guilty taking up delivery driver's...

www.retrobike.co.uk

See what you think......

 

[grey-beard]

Yep those are they. For sure you need to be a bit careful as in all restoration work, but it works brilliantly. ISHAY did a fantastic job using this method last year - but here are some approaches:

Project P7 ...

Re: So with the frame more or less stripped of parts it was time to address the shitty clear coat and rust issues The clearcoat had yellowed, crazed and chipped allowing water in creating rust scabs ...of which there were many :facepalm: Previously, i'd tried this Dial paint...

www.retrobike.co.uk

And

Orange P7 1995

After posting my last build at the end of the work (viewtopic.php?f=6&t=408488) I thought I'd start my next one at the beginning, so sorry, it'll be going a while. It's also not going to be as much of a perfect rebuild for a few reasons, one of which is I feel guilty taking up delivery driver's...

www.retrobike.co.uk

See what you think......

Thanks, that's all very useful.
The problem I seem to have with the finish is that where the decals and front mech clamp have been removed, I'm left with a very shiny "shadow" which I can't seem to have any affect on. Autosol isn't touching it.
I'm wondering if there is still remnants of lacquer on there so I'll give the paint stripper a go next.

 

[2manyoranges]

Yes that shadow likely to be unoxidised lacquer, protected from UV by the stickers and mech clamp. Yep, the next step will be to remove the lacquer on all areas of the frame. Will you want to use it in wet conditions in future? My nickel P7 is a working bike which gets out in all sorts of rubbish weather. It’s had the lacquer removed, and I just clean and polish it with silicon polish every now and again (about every three years....) and the rusting is entirely stable.