Nipples
- Thread starter cyfa2809
- Start date
cyfa2809":2lldtnwp said:
Been there done that. Will extend the amount of time before they seize for sure. But won't prevent it happening. Even DT anti-lock compound won't save you.
What happens is that at some point you will need to tighten a spoke more than the alloy can bear. Even with the best tools and ability, you will find yourself unable to straighten a wheel (without cutting the spoke) that you could have straightened it the nipples were brass. When I rebuilt my Crossmax rear wheel I lost half the spokes this way (due to a previous owners incompetence - noone on Retrobike I hasten to add).
- Feedback
- View
Just use them, never had a problem really.
the only time was recently, unbuilt my rear wheel to change the rim. 2 nipples had stuck fast to the spoke, (Ritchey WCS gold one's on Ritchey WCS spokes, so DT manufactured probably
) anyways 16+ years obviously had had an effect on it. 
Being Alu though means I could just mangle it off at the end and save the two spokes.
the only time was recently, unbuilt my rear wheel to change the rim. 2 nipples had stuck fast to the spoke, (Ritchey WCS gold one's on Ritchey WCS spokes, so DT manufactured probably
) anyways 16+ years obviously had had an effect on it. Being Alu though means I could just mangle it off at the end and save the two spokes.
silverclaws
Senior Retro Guru
One thing I know about steel and aluminium, is that they together will seize. I found this out when I had to make an allumium clamping sleeve to protect the thread on a bolt. I knew they might seize and they did, after only two weeks in indoor conditionds.
Beer is friendly !
Beer is friendly !
A nipple is a lot smaller and easier to round off than a seatpost bolt MM. If they were bigger you'd be able to unseize them without rendering them usesless.
When you've had to explain to as many irritated customers as me, (and put up with their reaction) that the only way we can straighten their wheel properly is by cutting half the spokes out then more of you would think the way I do.
Of course - these have been bikes that have been out there getting hammered, whatever the weather. If people are just building a bike to put on the wall or pootle on in the summer, then it's less of an issue.
When you've had to explain to as many irritated customers as me, (and put up with their reaction) that the only way we can straighten their wheel properly is by cutting half the spokes out then more of you would think the way I do.
Of course - these have been bikes that have been out there getting hammered, whatever the weather. If people are just building a bike to put on the wall or pootle on in the summer, then it's less of an issue.
silverclaws
Senior Retro Guru
But alloy nipples if prepared well in the building should not seize, in preparation I am meaning the lubrication of the nipple with anti seizure grease, which for me is a requisite due to what I know about the likelihood of aluminium alloys seizing when in contact with steel.
Also I am understand the use of the correct tools for the job greatly reduces the possibility of the spoke key rounding off the nipple, to which I understand the unior spoke wrench is pretty good at avoiding due to it working on three faces and three corners of the nipple;
http://www.uniortools.com/product/spoke-wrench-1630-2p
As to spoke length, I also understand it is more crucial when using alloy nipples, as the threaded spoke taking up all of threaded nipple actually reinforces the alloy.
Also I am understand the use of the correct tools for the job greatly reduces the possibility of the spoke key rounding off the nipple, to which I understand the unior spoke wrench is pretty good at avoiding due to it working on three faces and three corners of the nipple;
http://www.uniortools.com/product/spoke-wrench-1630-2p
As to spoke length, I also understand it is more crucial when using alloy nipples, as the threaded spoke taking up all of threaded nipple actually reinforces the alloy.
