New crank puller time

[Woz]

If you can find one, would recommend the Cyclus type. Short, stubby, and you can put a long ring spanner on them:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cyclus-Art-7 ... SwuuVdt0Dl

It's by far one of my favorite tools.

 

[TOMAS]

I've been using a Park CCP-22 for 20 years and still going strong! If you can still find them I imagine Pedros will do a good one too, my Pedros chain breaker is also 20 years old and AMAZING after possibly close to 100 chains fitted!

With this one its an all-in one piece, no breaker bars, no extra spanners to slip etc etc


https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/par ... -prod34314

 

[d8mok]

I've been using a Park CCP-22 for 20 years and still going strong! If you can still find them I imagine Pedros will do a good one too, my Pedros chain breaker is also 20 years old and AMAZING after possibly close to 100 chains fitted!

With this one its an all-in one piece, no breaker bars, no extra spanners to slip etc etc


https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/par ... -prod34314

Issue with the park one is that the handle isn’t massively long so on those rare occasions it’s very tight you can’t just grab a longer bar.

Plus from memory it doesn’t pivot so sometimes the handle is in the wrong place to push down. (My mate had one many years ago so this may of changed)

 

[niggle]

If you can find one, would recommend the Cyclus type. Short, stubby, and you can put a long ring spanner on them:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cyclus-Art-7 ... SwuuVdt0Dl

It's by far one of my favorite tools.

That looks good, I will get one of those if my Cyclo ever breaks.

Don't buy the Birzman universal, I bought one but couldn't get it to engage in a crank, which the Cyclo then had no problem with. On close inspection the start of thread on the Birzman was incorrectly cut. I sent it back and the replacement one was just the same, and I have just found this thread by someone else who had problems with it: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/ques ... n-properly. I thought Birzman was a pro brand....

EDIT: that Cyclus linked to is for octalink only, I might get it to partner up with my Cyclo, but I think the OP is wanting a square taper one.

 

[TOMAS]

I've been using a Park CCP-22 for 20 years and still going strong! If you can still find them I imagine Pedros will do a good one too, my Pedros chain breaker is also 20 years old and AMAZING after possibly close to 100 chains fitted!

With this one its an all-in one piece, no breaker bars, no extra spanners to slip etc etc


https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/par ... -prod34314

Issue with the park one is that the handle isn’t massively long so on those rare occasions it’s very tight you can’t just grab a longer bar.

Plus from memory it doesn’t pivot so sometimes the handle is in the wrong place to push down. (My mate had one many years ago so this may of changed)

You're right on those points, however I've not yet come across one that's too tight to undo... I always flip bikes upside down to do cranks and put my weight behind it that way.

 

[niggle]

I always flip bikes upside down to do cranks and put my weight behind it that way.

Why? You should be able to pull a crank with the bike in any good work stand, there really shouldn't be any issues with stability etc. when pulling a crank as you are only putting pressure on the tool and the crank arm, levering them against each other. I would have thought putting full body weight behind it will just result in stripping the crank thread, so other methods will be needed to avoid that, e.g. tapping squarely on the end of the removal tool can help, in between tightening it, or if that is not effective then pouring boiling water over the crank has done the trick for me before. Fortunately I have not had an alloy crank with a totally stripped thread yet, but that would be one to take to an LBS if I wanted to save the cranks, as the thread will need repair in any case.

Oh and I always put a smear of copper ease on square taper BBs when installing cranks, then torque them down properly, and have never had them come loose nor had problems removing them even after several years.

 

[TOMAS]

I always flip bikes upside down to do cranks and put my weight behind it that way.

Why? You should be able to pull a crank with the bike in any good work stand, there really shouldn't be any issues with stability etc. when pulling a crank as you are only putting pressure on the tool and the crank arm, levering them against each other. I would have thought putting full body weight behind it will just result in stripping the crank thread, so other methods will be needed to avoid that, e.g. tapping squarely on the end of the removal tool can help, in between tightening it, or if that is not effective then pouring boiling water over the crank has done the trick for me before. Fortunately I have not had an alloy crank with a totally stripped thread yet, but that would be one to take to an LBS if I wanted to save the cranks, as the thread will need repair in any case.

Oh and I always put a smear of copper ease on square taper BBs when installing cranks, then torque them down properly, and have never had them come loose nor had problems removing them even after several years.

Granted you should/can do them in a workstand, I just find that when loading them up a lot that the stand may flex, which I don't like - having the bike upside down on carpet/mat or right way around on floor but supported from falling over helps, I hold the cranks at a 9 and 3 o'clock positions, have done more than I can count over absolutely years this way and have only ever stripped out one crank, and that was because I hadn't wound in the tool far enough into the crank arm.

Tried to fetch a seized BB out of a frame with a long breaker bar (last resort) whilst it was in a stand last year and the stand welds gave out lol!

 

[scant]

For anyone attempting to remove square taper & the effort feels overly high compared to normal. I'd recommend spray some wurth rost off & leave it overnight. if it still feels tight, then use the slow application of boiling water as others have mentioned definitely works. I've got brand new pedros square taper crank removal tool for £9 if anyone wants 1

 

[Captain Stupido]

Re: Re:

stick a smaller bolt in the BB bolt hole, I use old cantilever bolts that are past saving, then carry on using your extractor without damaging the BB threads

Finally got around to having a go. This worked a treat. I think I’ll save my moneys and hang on to the one I’ve got! Actually the cranks weren’t as tight as I’d thought, it was the worn tool causing the problem, but it works as good as new (maybe even better) with a suitably sized machine screw popped in the end of the bb axle.

Top tip. Thanks!

 

[retrobikeguy]

Re:

Tight arse Yorkshire fix's are best