n+1, this time a steel one.

M_Chavez

Old School Hero
From the late Sixties up to the mid Seventies even Tours de France were won without bottle cage bosses
I was not aware of that, thank you. They did have support vehicles providing them with an endless supply of water (I hope)?

Just had a look - yes, 65. Didn't realise that was a thing in the past!
Does that mean I need a spacer to run a "modern" sealed bearing BB? If one can use the word "modern" when talking about a square taper.
 

M_Chavez

Old School Hero
The bike is now fully stripped. I've tinfoiled everything I could reach, then soaked the insides with meths, gave it a wipe, let it dry, then gave it a rinse with Hydrate 80 rust converter.
Top tube and fork blades were a bit of a surprise - I can hear some [rust?] flakes rolling inside them, yet these tubes are fully sealed and I could not get the rust converter into them.
If they are fully sealed, how did they manage to rust on the inside o_O .

Front guard eyelets took some drilling, but I've managed to restore the threads to an acceptable level - good enough to hold a plastic guard.
Hardest bit was removing the broken dropout adjuster screw. Tried soaking in plusgas, then filing the dropout a little to uncover just enough bolt to grab with my pliers, but the bolt just stripped off. I then tried cutting a wee slot with a hacksaw and turning the bolt with a small screwdriver - just bent the screwdriver blade.
In the end, it was down to drilling the M3 bolt with a 1.6mm drill bit, freehand, with plenty of the world's most popular cutting liquid (WD40). I've managed to drill out the bolt almost with no damage to the threads. I should have been a brain surgeon with hands like that. Then refreshed the threads with a tap - should be good enough to hold the adjuster bolt.

Two holes drilled in the seat tube to stop the crack spread. Drilling Reynolds 531db was a very pleasant experience. If anyone wants a few extra holes in their frame, give me a call.

Overall, the bike's a bit of a challenge, but general condition is OK, assuming no more structural damage. All this work made me realise just how well preserved my Romani is!
 

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jim haseltine

Retro Guru
Top tube and fork blades were a bit of a surprise - I can hear some [rust?] flakes rolling inside them, yet these tubes are fully sealed and I could not get the rust converter into them.
If they are fully sealed, how did they manage to rust on the inside o_O .
Brazing scale.
 

torqueless

Senior Retro Guru
Just had a look - yes, 65. Didn't realise that was a thing in the past!
Does that mean I need a spacer to run a "modern" sealed bearing BB? If one can use the word "modern" when talking about a square taper.
Tbh I don't know. I'd think that with the 21st century resurgence of fixed/single speed, bottom brackets to fit 65mm shells are available? Track bikes used to have 65mm shells. I don't know if they still do.
Yeah don't worry about a bit of loose stuff in the top tube. Afaik it's actually a good sign, showing that the builder got enough brass in the joints for some of it come out the other end.
 
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M_Chavez

Old School Hero
If one of you spotted an idiot carrying a bicycle on a bicycle the other day, that was probably me.

After a few attempts I found a way to attach the frame to the bike like in the photo. Being very risk averse, I decided that there is no way it is safe to ride like this.
So I added two more cable ties, just to be on the safe side, and set off on a 30 mile trip.
The saddest thing about it was that this was by far the easiest way to transport the frame to the painters.
All went well until I got to the work's car park and tried a cyclocross dismount 🤣 Thankfully, no damage was done to the frame.

Hopefully, no more issues will come up when the frame is stripped.

Re the bottom bracket - It's probably possible to buy a 65mm one, but when I have at least 3 spare standard BSA BBs rolling around the parts bin, it would be better to use what I have.
 

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M_Chavez

Old School Hero
Right, I'm getting closer to test riding the bojack.

Big thanks to everyone suggesting to get the paintjob done professionally. What a difference!

Swapped the bars for Randonneurs and opted for non-aero levers, but they end up being quite low - I might switch to a more modern design and change the bars angle.

Couldn't find anyone to fix the tube. Out of 5 places where I checked, 2 never got back to me, 2 frame builders came back with a one-liner "We don't do this type of work", and one non-bike place said they can give brazing it a go, but only as a last resort.
I figured I can do a CF wrap with about the same chance of success, so just got the frame powdercoated and wrapped the CF last night (12k tow. 2 meters wrapped around the damaged area, wetted with West System laminating epoxy).
Hopefully, the fix will work & last, but wtfdik.
 

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