MOTOR CHAT

[jimihendrix]

Yes, previous owner tried something like that, made his own LED flasher unit to hook up to the ECU, didn't come up with much though, this car predates the more sophisticated (Lexia ?) diagnostics, he tried changing all the usual stuff, air temp sensor, crank sensor, injectors, fuel filter, idle control valve, lambda sensor.

Runs fine when stone cold, starts to run rough as it heats up, cuts out at junctions, restarts fine, slightly uneven idle until fully warm, once fully warm runs fine apart from a slight stumble when climbing a long hill.

Pulls fine when fully warm, Turbo spools up ok, EML never on (it's working though)

It's a strange one.

Does it have a coil pack? If so check the plug that goes to the pack. I was working on a C4 which would start then cut out - owner had spent zillions on everything except the one weak point. I unplugged it and showed him the green powder in place of what should have been shiny copper. Cleaned the plug and it was fine after that.

Has a coil pack LGF, pretty sure if it was the feed to that problem would be there all the time, this is definitely relative to ambient temperature, started and ran fine thismorning but it was 18 degrees, was running terrible a couple of weeks ago when it was 2 degrees.

Re; the PSA engine cutting out and the water temp sensor. I had exactly the same issue on a Peugeot. Exactly the same result too, but I did fix it in the end.

Clue; there's more than one water temp sensor... In fact, there were three of the bloody things, and I changed the wrong one.

I know, three at the back of the cylinder head, green, blue and brown, was lead to believe the green is for the ECU, the brown and blue are for the radiator fans and the temp guage on the dash.

 

[highlandsflyer]

Re: Re:

Excellent stuff that yellow tape/paint. I did one of my cars like that eons ago. Think it was the Citroen BX or Sierra Sapphire. Looked cool. Never took it abroad though

I'm currently fighting with the Skoda Octavia cold start system. New glow plugs etc but still smokey and noisy until warmed up a few minutes.

On the plus side its doing 60mpg :xmas-big-grin:

Try giving positive excitement to the buzz bar for a few seconds before starting. You can normally hear the relays clicking if the ECU is sensing the temperature correctly.

 

[legrandefromage]

The coil plug, when cold and wet, would be a better conductor than when warm and dry

I had loads of errors come on my dash but only about an hour into a journey - it was carbon build up on the rear light cluster plugs. Cold frosty mornings - fine. Warm sunny afternoons - beep beep beep.

Now I've fixed it I kind of miss the beeps!

 

[mattr]

Re: Re:

Try giving positive excitement to the buzz bar for a few seconds before starting. You can normally hear the relays clicking if the ECU is sensing the temperature correctly.

Busbar, it's only a buzz bar if you grab hold of it at the wrong moment........ And it's a hell of a buzz. (Though I doubt anything in the skodas electrics would bear any resemblance to what you or I would recognise as a busbar. A big clump of barely identifiable cables world be more like it.......)

 

[jimihendrix]

The coil plug, when cold and wet, would be a better conductor than when warm and dry

I had loads of errors come on my dash but only about an hour into a journey - it was carbon build up on the rear light cluster plugs. Cold frosty mornings - fine. Warm sunny afternoons - beep beep beep.

Now I've fixed it I kind of miss the beeps!

But my car is the opposite, runs crap when cold and fine when hot/warm.

Will have a look at the plug anyway.

Also suspect the air temp sensor on the throttle body (even though the last owner said he tested it)

 

[jimihendrix]

Re:

Managed to get a pic of my workmates bike today, took a wee while as i had to remember to take my camera in (dont have a lead to download pics from my phone), then when i remembered the camera he didn't have the bike in (he'd have his 1200 Bandit instead)

Not huge on bikes, but admire them and like anything with an engine and is a bit different/interesting.

Has taken him two years to re-build it, he's owned it for something like 30 years.

From memory it's a 1979 GS1000 with a GSXR 750 engine bored out to 870, high lift cams, carbs and four into one exhaust, huge brakes etc, pics dont do the paint justice, it's got a heavy (like metalflake) metallic finish to it.

 

[RobMac]

Re:

Mark I've got a GS1000 my self but with the right engine in it
And 2 GSX11's I'm a real air cooled nut.
And 2 1200 Bandits oil cooled :facepalm:
etc etc etc ...............

 

[Mr Panda]

Re:

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I thought you might wake up on seeing this^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[RobMac]

Re:

Ditto :mrgreen:

 

[jimo746]

Hmmm... Think I have a leaky injector on my 2003 Citroen Berlingo 2.0Hdi...
Yesterday morning it would keep starting and then rattle a bit before dying, reminded me of when it had air in the fuel system a few years ago after I ran it out of fuel, and yep, I could see small air bubbles in the fuel lines. A few pumps of the "magic rubber ball" and it ran fine all day, albeit with the engine management light on the dash for a while although this turned off later in the day.

This morning same problem, only now it seems to occasionally want to die whilst driving too.
I've noticed one of the injectors looks like it's leaking fuel, it's wet and the small area around it is damp too, I'm guessing with diesel. I assume either the seal is gone or the connecting fuel pipe has worked loose? And this is allowing a small amount of air into the fuel system?

What's the best course of action here? Hopefully it's just a seal that needs replacing, although last time I recall trying to remove a diesel injector it was a real stubborn pig to remove.