Hello all I need help please

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There's nothing wrong with triggers broom its lasted him years lol, I have brought one of those books off amazon so will have a good old read when it comes. I haven't got the stem out yet but got a couple of ideas to try this weekend, I have had a good look everywhere on the frame now and the only number is on the head tube? between the forks and stem, it is B77143 but I cant find it anywhere yet.
 
Eugene Sloane All new complete book of cycling 1988 is good and discusses lots of components of the time.

It might me a "bit modern".

easily available used
 
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Possible thing to try, check if it's got a 26tpi headset or BB which would indicate it was a raleigh or raleigh owned brand. The easiest way to do this is to get a 24tpi bb cup (a normal english threaded one) and press it against the headset threads or bb cups, if the threads mesh together then they are the same threading, if they sit on top they are not 24tpi and almost certainly 26tpi.
 
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Thanks for the tips I have just ordered that book but wont arrive until July. So Carlton_gang does that mean the headset and BB are always the same size on a bike then be it 24 or 26tpi ?, I will maybe pop to my local bike shop and see if he has one I can compare with, funnily enough I have one side off and it says it was made by Philips.
 
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P!LGR!M":270i3d9w said:
So Carlton_gang does that mean the headset and BB are always the same size on a bike then be it 24 or 26tpi ?
Not always raleigh sometimes mixed and matched, although if it says its a Philips one then it is unlikely to be a raleigh as they made the parts in house.
 
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It occurs to me french bikes also have different headset and bb threading (look up on sheldon brown I can't remember off the top of my head), they also have different headset dimensions, so measuring them may help identify if it's a french bike, which might help narrow it down.
 
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Looks a good project and I bet it’s salvagable.

Hopefully it come apart okay and you can get the stem out.

Clean everything and refit it and you’ll be grand. With any luck all you’ll need are cables, tyres/tubes, a chain and brake blocks and off you go. Will be great for a few rides a year.

Good luck and keep us posted!
 
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Your mate gave you £25 to take it off his hands? he got a good deal :twisted:

Watching this with interest :D
 
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I have brought brake and gear cables, a front derailleur which is Suntour the same as the gear levers, and ordered the headset bracket kit, I will post a few pics as I go. I looked at brake blocks in the bike shop but they were huge things totally different to the originals.

My main aim is to ID it so then I can paint it the correct colour otherwise I will just have to pick a colour I like and go with that.
 
Handlebar stem: (This may have been covered earlier - in which case please ignore.) This age of kit typically has an wedge-shaped (or truncated cone if you want to be pedantic) expansion nut at the bottom of the long bolt that passes through the stem. Tightening the bolt lifts the wedge upwards and causes the end of the stem (which has 1 or more slots cut in it) to flare out, hoding it into the head tube. When you loosen the bolt, the wedges stays where it is and the bolt rises up out of the stem. You need to knock the wedge downwards (hammer+ block of wood or mallet) to push the wedge out of the stem. You can, but don't need to, knock the wedge nut out entirely and it will drop through the fork. You can then invert the frame and run penetrating oil in every day for a few days to try and get it between the stem and the fork tube. Supporting the forks (big bench vice?) you may then be able to persuade the stem to start moving side to side and eventually out. Bit of heat on the stem may help but if all else fails you may end up having to cut/dissolve it out - which is tricky to do without damaging the fork tube. If the stem comes out without damage it can be reused, but make sure you put some grease on it to save the next person from the same grief.

Frame identity: The chances of you identifying the make from the frame number are almost zero. Better off just sanding the rust down a bit until you discover a colour you like and using that. It's not like the classic car market for this kind of bike. There's a little chip on one of your pics that could be bronze?? Best make sure that none of the rust goes all the way through before you think too much about colour. You may yet have to put it back in the sea.

Brake blocks: Check out Fibrax (who I think have an ebay shop) and I'm sure they still do something suitable.
 
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