Full service Parts list help
- Thread starter evozero
- Start date
Re:
The 5700,s are fitted and working beautifully. Huge improvement in stopping power and feel, thanks for the excellent advice!
The spa bolt was essential for the front callipers as the standard bolt was too short. No drilling required, just used the old washers and nuts.
Jagwire cable kit was fitted with new bar tape.
Cleaned and lubed the drive train, but noticed a couple of dodgy teeth on the gears.
I have a six speed set fitted, can I replace with a 7 speed?
And what type do i need, most mention screw fit or cassette.
I'm confused on the type to buy and removal tool.
Cheers,
Ian
The 5700,s are fitted and working beautifully. Huge improvement in stopping power and feel, thanks for the excellent advice!
The spa bolt was essential for the front callipers as the standard bolt was too short. No drilling required, just used the old washers and nuts.
Jagwire cable kit was fitted with new bar tape.
Cleaned and lubed the drive train, but noticed a couple of dodgy teeth on the gears.
I have a six speed set fitted, can I replace with a 7 speed?
And what type do i need, most mention screw fit or cassette.
I'm confused on the type to buy and removal tool.
Cheers,
Ian
torqueless
Senior Retro Guru
Re:
Glad the brakes worked out! I take it the Shimano 'front' bolt fitted on the rear without issue?
Glad the brakes worked out! I take it the Shimano 'front' bolt fitted on the rear without issue?
Probably the best thing to do is to remove your rear wheel, clean off any obscuring gunk from the outer face of the freewheel, take a picture, post it here, and someone will be able to identify and advise. While the rear wheel is out you could measure the distance between the inner faces of the rear dropout slots, in mm., because that might be a limiting factor in the options available to you...
Re:
Excellent! Glad the bolt came in handy. There’s nothing like knowing you can stop any time you need too. ..A few years back I commuted to Tower Hill on a beautiful old bog-standard 70s Peugeot which had steel rims and I swear that when I yanked the brakes on in heavy rain it went faster! …They would always kick in after a few seconds but those were some of the most terrifying seconds of my life!
I’m no expert but if your gears are friction (not indexed) then you should able to switch to 7 speed but you’ll probably need a new chain to match. Like Torqueless says stick a picture up and someone will know what it is you're dealing with.
Excellent! Glad the bolt came in handy. There’s nothing like knowing you can stop any time you need too. ..A few years back I commuted to Tower Hill on a beautiful old bog-standard 70s Peugeot which had steel rims and I swear that when I yanked the brakes on in heavy rain it went faster! …They would always kick in after a few seconds but those were some of the most terrifying seconds of my life!
I’m no expert but if your gears are friction (not indexed) then you should able to switch to 7 speed but you’ll probably need a new chain to match. Like Torqueless says stick a picture up and someone will know what it is you're dealing with.
Re:
The ride home from work was great, the brakes really inspire confidence.
Took off the rear wheel and took some photos. The hub feels a bit gritty, the bottom bracket a little play.
I'm thinking is should order some new balls from simply bearings, what size do i need for the hub's and crank?
I'm off to measure the drop out gap, cheers.
Ian
The ride home from work was great, the brakes really inspire confidence.
Took off the rear wheel and took some photos. The hub feels a bit gritty, the bottom bracket a little play.
I'm thinking is should order some new balls from simply bearings, what size do i need for the hub's and crank?
I'm off to measure the drop out gap, cheers.
Ian
Attachments
torqueless
Senior Retro Guru
Re:
You are reaching the parts where access to bike-specific tools is likely to significantly decrease your quantum of frustration.. I dunno if you've got 'em- chain-link extactor, crank extractor, BB spanners, cone spanners, spoke key..?
127mm should not limit your options too much- not around here in retroland, anyway! But, rather than a screw-on freewheel, that sure looks like a 'cassette' to me, which is outside my zone of familiarity, even with six cogs. With six cogs, I guess it is from a time when cassettes were still a novelty, possibly subject to yearly innovation, so there might be compatibility issues with trying to get seven cogs on there, or availability issues with the seven (obsolete?) cogs that will fit on there? I don't know. Someone does....
You are reaching the parts where access to bike-specific tools is likely to significantly decrease your quantum of frustration.. I dunno if you've got 'em- chain-link extactor, crank extractor, BB spanners, cone spanners, spoke key..?
127mm should not limit your options too much- not around here in retroland, anyway! But, rather than a screw-on freewheel, that sure looks like a 'cassette' to me, which is outside my zone of familiarity, even with six cogs. With six cogs, I guess it is from a time when cassettes were still a novelty, possibly subject to yearly innovation, so there might be compatibility issues with trying to get seven cogs on there, or availability issues with the seven (obsolete?) cogs that will fit on there? I don't know. Someone does....
Re:
Outside my tiny comfort zone too - freewheels are all I know(ish). Your hub and bb might just need regressing but as torqueless says you're gonna need the right tools. Regreasing hubs is fairly straight forward with the right spanners but I'm ashamed to say when my bb went I got the LBS to do it. As much as I'd like to do it myself it made more sense to pay the 30 quid or whatever it was than buy the tools. Also, if you end up swopping your old bb for a modern sealed bb you'll need one tool to remove your old one and another tool to fit your new one.
Another option might be to go somewhere like the bike kitchen -http://www.lbk.org.uk/about - where you basically hire a work space have access to tools, help and advice. A bit of googling might bring up something similar near you.
Outside my tiny comfort zone too - freewheels are all I know(ish). Your hub and bb might just need regressing but as torqueless says you're gonna need the right tools. Regreasing hubs is fairly straight forward with the right spanners but I'm ashamed to say when my bb went I got the LBS to do it. As much as I'd like to do it myself it made more sense to pay the 30 quid or whatever it was than buy the tools. Also, if you end up swopping your old bb for a modern sealed bb you'll need one tool to remove your old one and another tool to fit your new one.
Another option might be to go somewhere like the bike kitchen -http://www.lbk.org.uk/about - where you basically hire a work space have access to tools, help and advice. A bit of googling might bring up something similar near you.
Re:
I do have a few tools, link extractor, hub spanners. No BB tools, but a whip chain and cog tool are cheap on the bay, I just need to know what tool to buy.
Found this picture of the hubs, does this help identify tool and freewheel / cassette?
http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx? ... f&Enum=110
States the rear spacing 126mm, does not mention the bearing ball size?
The BB is marked 187X24T and Crankset described as Shimano 600 when I bought the bike.
I like the idea of replacing the BB with a modern sealed BB.
Cheers
Ian
I do have a few tools, link extractor, hub spanners. No BB tools, but a whip chain and cog tool are cheap on the bay, I just need to know what tool to buy.
Found this picture of the hubs, does this help identify tool and freewheel / cassette?
http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx? ... f&Enum=110
States the rear spacing 126mm, does not mention the bearing ball size?
The BB is marked 187X24T and Crankset described as Shimano 600 when I bought the bike.
I like the idea of replacing the BB with a modern sealed BB.
Cheers
Ian
Re:
Cross referencing between Velobase and the often mentioned Sheldon Brown website should have all the information you need for servicing both the BB and hub /cassette. Looking at Sheldon it looks like a “Uniglide” (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html). Uniglide was a transition point between the traditional screw-on freewheel and the now standard Hyperglide. It only lasted a couple of years(?) so I believe the parts can be harder to find (when searching ebay typing Shimano UG seems to bring up more results than Uniglide).
Might be worth doing a shout out in the wanted section on here and the LFGSS forum for replacements?
If you’re swopping from 6 to 7 speed it might be worth thinking whether you’re after a smoother transmission (13-14-15-16-17-19-21) or a wider ratio (14-16-18-20-22-24-26). Because if you’re just after a say a bigger big cog you could just stick with 6 speed and stick a 26t on and save any unforeseen complications of switching to 7. Although you’ll need to check velobase to make sure your rear derailleur can handle the bigger cog. Ah - so many variables!
If it is Uniglide it might also be worth starting a new Uniglide specific thread to attract forum members with the relevant knowledge. Oh, and use the search tool at the top as there's probably a fair bit of information on here already.
Cross referencing between Velobase and the often mentioned Sheldon Brown website should have all the information you need for servicing both the BB and hub /cassette. Looking at Sheldon it looks like a “Uniglide” (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html). Uniglide was a transition point between the traditional screw-on freewheel and the now standard Hyperglide. It only lasted a couple of years(?) so I believe the parts can be harder to find (when searching ebay typing Shimano UG seems to bring up more results than Uniglide).
Might be worth doing a shout out in the wanted section on here and the LFGSS forum for replacements?
If you’re swopping from 6 to 7 speed it might be worth thinking whether you’re after a smoother transmission (13-14-15-16-17-19-21) or a wider ratio (14-16-18-20-22-24-26). Because if you’re just after a say a bigger big cog you could just stick with 6 speed and stick a 26t on and save any unforeseen complications of switching to 7. Although you’ll need to check velobase to make sure your rear derailleur can handle the bigger cog. Ah - so many variables!
If it is Uniglide it might also be worth starting a new Uniglide specific thread to attract forum members with the relevant knowledge. Oh, and use the search tool at the top as there's probably a fair bit of information on here already.
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