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[evozero]

Do you have steel rims? The main problem with fitting modern DP brake (shimano 5700 have the right cable pull requirements for your levers) is your bike requires hex hut fitting brake. To use modern brakes you need to drill for recessed allen key brakes or dismantle the brakes and fit longer threaded bolts to convert them to hex hut fitting. Drilling is fairly easy.
If you have steel rims change the wheels and your brakes will work.

Thanks for the info..
The wheels are Wolber super champion gentleman 81, look like Alu to me.
Thinking about the cost difference between kool stop and changing the brakes to Shimano 105, for £50 they come with pads.
It looks as though the 5700 has been replaced by the 5800? They have the same drop 49mm, I measured from the centre of the brake bolt, looks like the middle of the adjustment on my current brakes, maybe they have the same drop.
I have taken a photo of the brakes, would the drilling method you described work ok?

The cables have arrived, should I hold off fitting them to the old brakes in case I change them?

Thanks for all the help so far.
Cheers
Ian

 

[evozero]

I have been reading http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html,
Its recommended to buy two front calipers due to the longer centre bolts, I cant see the 5800 bolt length specs listed anywhere?
Current centre bolt length. front 8 cm, rear 6.5 cm, total length including nut.

Do I understand correctly, I need to drill the rear of the fork crown and rear brake bridge from 6mm to 8mm to take the allen bolt?
Cheers
Ian

 

[torqueless]

Re:

Its recommended to buy two front calipers due to the longer centre bolts,

That is because a front bolt which is the right length for the the Allen key nut is fortuitously about the same length as the old-style rear bolt intended to take a conventional nut, so if you can get two front brakes, you don't have to drill your rear brake bridge at all. (i.e. you use a conventional nut)

Do I understand correctly, I need to drill the rear of the fork crown and rear brake bridge from 6mm to 8mm to take the allen bolt?

Well, without any particular endorsement from me as to the wisdom of modifying old frames to accept new components, technically it is the Allen key nut that needs the 8mm diameter hole rather than the bolt. The free end of the (6mm) bolt flops about in the 8mm hole until the nut goes on. If you do drill the rear bridge, bear in mind that the line between A)drilling deep enough to accommodate the Allen nut and B)accidentally drilling all the way through and having to bodge a repair, might be pretty thin, but, given that you will be attempting to operate a drill in the constricted space between the seat tube and the brake bridge, there is not so much opportunity to go crazy with power tools, unless you are much better equipped with them than I am..

 

[evozero]

Re:

Thanks, I Have been eyeing up how to drill the rear brake bridge and can't see how without buying a right angle chuck.
Evans sell the 5800 individually, cant buy the 5700, will they work with my levers?
I'll just buy two front callipers then if it means no drilling.
Cheers
Ian

 

[nonowt]

Re:

Personally I'd try the new cables and pads first. I changed the pads on my Shimano 600ex brakes and the difference was really noticeable - I could stop! The old pads had hardened over the last 30 years or so and just slowed me down. The Golden Arrows look great on your bike

I really wouldn't rush to take a drill to your frame. If it goes wrong... :shock:

if they're still weedy try some Mafac centre pulls (like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-MAFAC ... Sw8oFXyGvU (not mine)) which have a bit more stopping power and look great. And, if you don't like 'em you can sell simply them on again for the same as you paid.

 

[evozero]

I think Retro Guru meant if I buy two front calipers I wouldn't need to drill, is that correct?
If I cut the cables and outer to fit my current brakes they may be wrong for the 5800's, I'm not sure?

Cheers
Ian

 

[torqueless]

Re:

I think Retro Guru meant if I buy two front calipers I wouldn't need to drill, is that correct?

You would still need to drill out the back of the fork crown. The arrangement would be: Front brake fitted with allen nut. Rear brake fitted with conventional nut.

If I cut the cables and outer to fit my current brakes they may be wrong for the 5800's, I'm not sure?

I can't imagine the new brakes would need markedly different cable length than the old. One complicating factor might be that Golden Arrow, like old Weinmann, pull cable on the right of the brake, whereas most side pulls, (and dual pivot, afaik) pull on the left.
So if you try the new cables with the old brakes, you might need to leave yourself a margin of extra cable length, just in case... but then that is complicated by the fact that the 'Aero levers with cables under the bar tape' arrangement might not be so tolerant of less-than-optimal cable lengths?

Might be too obvious to mention, but when installing cables, always remember that your bars/forks/front wheel turn from side to side sometimes, and your cables need to be long enough to allow them to do so.

 

[nonowt]

Re:

If you decide to go for new calipers this might save you getting the drill out:

http://road.cc/content/review/51312-spa ... rsion-bolt

 

[evozero]

You guys rock!
I'm going to order two front 5800's and fit them at the same time as the cables.
I have a pillar drill, so the front forks should be ok. It was the rear that was troubling.....

Photos to come.
Cheers
Ian

 

[torqueless]

Re:

Aw..we was both hopin' you'd buy that bolt..

If you go the drilling route, once the brakes arrive you might want to do a 'test drilling' on a piece of scrap metal to confirm the hole size best suited to the Allen nut. In this case, imo a snug fit is better than a loose one. 'Snug' not being a synonym for 'tight'!

Don't automatically assume that an 8mm drill will give the best size hole.

I mention this because I just measured a pair of those Allen nuts that I bought years back to put some pivot bolts with f*cked up threads back into service, and they seem to be 5/16" (7.8mm) diameter rather than 8mm. And they are still unused- it is not like they've been worn down in use or anything..