Canondale SuperV400 rear swingarm bearing

[HughF]

Hi there forum folk... My boss wants to rebuild the knackered bearings in his 11 year old SuperV400, I'm trying to figure out how the bearing caps come out. Looking inside reveals a normal thread that appears to screw onto a steel spindle, that I'm guessing is pinned into the frame.

Beating at it like mad with the impact gun has turned it about 1 turn and it's gone tight again.

No luck from canondale obviously, so thought I'd ask on here.

 

[mikee]

the early ones had a shoulder bolt and a sleeve nut in them
unscrew and remove ,simple as that
think the later (sva) ones are the same
if the bearings gone its maybee seized to the shaft ?

 

[HughF]

The bearings aren't gone completely, it's just there is play in them and he can feel it when riding. Time for a freshen up I think.

I'll persevere with penetrating oil and the impact gun, It looks like they should just screw off...

Cheers for the help

 

[old_coyote_pedaller]

Whatever you do, don't hit it too hard as the 2 parts are aluminium alloy.

http://www.cannondalestore.de/SHOP/800/KF008.jpg

You can see in link above the sleeve nut, black bit, and shoulder bolt with the spacers at bottom that mikee mentions. If, as mikee says, the sleeve nut is seized in bearings be gentle as it's easy to damage the nut and bolt if you hit them as shoulder/heads are thin. The bolt on are spare CAAD4 rear arm I bought had been blootered by whoever removed it from frame.
They aren't cheap.

 

[HughF]

2 parts? The one we have looks different. There is an anodised alumium screw in cup with an 8mm hex hole in it, peering into the hex hole with a torch reveals an internal M12-M14 thread that appears to be threaded onto a steel shaft, which I guess is fixed to the frame/swingarm area.

I'm therefore guessing that the aluminium cup pops inside the bearing and has a shoulder to stop the bearing coming out of the swingarm, and they just screw outwards and off. Feels like the aluminium/steel interface is where the corrosion/holdup is.

Or are you suggesting the aluminium cups sieze into the inside of the bearing inner races?

Give me a car to work on any day, much easier to figure out

 

[old_coyote_pedaller]

I have a Super V 1000SL about the same age as your boss's Super V 400. They should both have the same pivot axle. I replaced the cracked original rear arm on my Super V with a CAAD4 arm from a Jekyll. They use the same bearings and pivot axle. Look at the pic in the link I posted, the main shaft is black in pic, it has a 10mm Allen key hex in end. The other part is a short bolt (top hat shaped) with a 6mm Allen key hex. The flange on both the end of shaft and short bolt are the shoulders that hold the bearings, there are also ring shaped spacers as well that fit on inner side of bearings.
As you can see from the pic the flange on the shaft is not very thick, the one on bolt is the same, they are easily damaged if hit wrongly.
The way I removed my pivot shaft was to slacken bolt slightly to allow it to move a bit when I tapped it with tool number 1. I used a bolt that fitted inside the 6mm hex on the pivot bolt, fitted a thickish washer under head of this bolt to spread load on alloy pivot bolt. Supported the frame/rear arm so that I could tap the head of bolt, make sure you hit it in centre.Didn't have to hit mine very hard for pivot shaft to move. Mine wasn't seized just stuck after being there so long, there was no corrosion.

 

[mikee]

hugh get some pics up

hi john

 

[old_coyote_pedaller]

And a good evening to you Mike.

 

[HughF]

This part, the aluminium bit in the middle of the bearing has an 8mm hex hole in it, and is threaded internally as I mentioned, It does move, but is bastard tight. And I've got a 1/2" dewalt 240v impact gun on it!!!

 

[old_coyote_pedaller]

What do you mean by move?
Is it spinning in the bearing or moving relative to the other end, ie unscrewing? Are you holding other end with allen key while turning it with impact gun?

Also don't think it is a good idea using the impact gun as it won't be long, by the look of the "hex", before it's totally effed.

The internal thread will be for the bolt (the top hat shaped one) to screw into other end.

You did try using 2 allen keys to unscrew the bolt from pivot shaft and not just in one end?