Cannondale M800 (Light Project)

I've got some Soma bars (in the UK) - very nicely made and finished.

Are you thinking of using that M750 crank on this build?
I was thinking about using the M750 XT crank in replace of the LX Crankset, am still unsure though. Where did you get the Soma bars from? Thanks for the feedback on them, their fabrications do look good and are priced well, not overpriced.
 
Don't recall where they came from actually but bought them new from somewhere in the UK /don't think it was SJS who have sold some Soma gear)

I really like the M750 cranks but as you've achieved such great results with the shifters I just assumed you'd be staying more period correct gear. Will look great either way!
 
Well this old chestnut strikes me again. I recall 24 years ago having an alloy Orange EVO 2 frame will a similar issue, it took me holding the frame down and a fit strong Italian steed of a man (my mate) to break the BB free with a five foot scaffolding pole on the end of the tool (both sides). I don't want to use heat to waste the paint, however thermal dynamics state it only takes 30c to expand alloy, therefore if I bathed the frame in really hot "just boiled water" it may be enough, or ideally I could do with am impact gun. I have tried levering both sides with a 2.5 foot pole, there is no budging.
 

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Well this old chestnut strikes me again. I recall 24 years ago having an alloy Orange EVO 2 frame will a similar issue, it took me holding the frame down and a fit strong Italian steed of a man (my mate) to break the BB free with a five foot scaffolding pole on the end of the tool (both sides). I don't want to use heat to waste the paint, however thermal dynamics state it only takes 30c to expand alloy, therefore if I bathed the frame in really hot "just boiled water" it may be enough, or ideally I could do with am impact gun. I have tried levering both sides with a 2.5 foot pole, there is no budging.

Good crank choice :) great minds and all that.

Are you sure you are turning the BB the correct directions?
 
A few places where under the paint oxidation has taken place, I will get the all the components removed and the forks, BB etc then see whats what. I did scrape the loose paint away from those area's to give me an idea on how far I need to go. There are no structural cracks and it is all cosmetic, am confident with proper preparation, under coat, paint with the proper code and a gloss clear over coat, along with a lot of wet n' dry I can resolve this.
Really need this treatment on my viper red sm400. Are you in Glasgow BTW?
 
All components are off and zipped bagged apart from this BB. Am contemplating my next move over a beer.
 

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Well this old chestnut strikes me again. I recall 24 years ago having an alloy Orange EVO 2 frame will a similar issue, it took me holding the frame down and a fit strong Italian steed of a man (my mate) to break the BB free with a five foot scaffolding pole on the end of the tool (both sides). I don't want to use heat to waste the paint, however thermal dynamics state it only takes 30c to expand alloy, therefore if I bathed the frame in really hot "just boiled water" it may be enough, or ideally I could do with am impact gun. I have tried levering both sides with a 2.5 foot pole, there is no budging.
Ok for people trying this at home, I tried the bucket of water (boiling) and dipping in the Bottom Bracket area and let it sit for ages, then try to remove it, all I did was scold me fingers. 😝 - I did not think that would work, I basically don't have enough leverage. Am keeping the M8 bolt holding the tool on to stop it slipping, I need an extra person like the Orange EVO 2 removal.
 
Well after a little swearing and cursing, its out. Its looks so dry, as if it was fitted dry back in 1993/1994. The bearings are fine in the cartridge, but I wanted it serviced and out for a new cartridge. This time it will get greased, threads are all good in the BB.
 

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