Recent content by hamster

You will need a framebuilder - essentially they have to melt the braze and remove the old steerer, then fit a new one. Alternatively, some might remove the top of the steerer and braze on a new extension. In this second case you will probably not have to repaint. Have a look here...

I have run Schwalbe Marathon Greenguard for 10 years or so. They are surprisingly fast (have a look at bicyclerollingresistance.com) and very puncture resistant. While they are wired they do very well.

Handlebar bag: Decathlon, with main bag, four pockets (2x side, front, inside lid) plus map pocket for the top. Handlebar clamp not shown, bag clips securely to clamp. Fits a bike with 42mm drop bars, obviously loads of space with flat bars. All good condition, around 25 years old.

Those should work - they say 700C and 630, which is 27" in UK speak. As I said, the imperial size numbers are confusing.

I've happily and comfortably ridden 100+ mile (160km) days on my bike with 23C. That's on UK roads, not smoother European tarmac.

Avoid thinking about ANY imperial size descriptions, they create more confusion than assistance. Use the ETRTO number, which is the bead seat diameter. 622 is 700C, 630 is the old UK 27" size.

25mm is fine, so is 23mm. 20mm gets a bit lumpy on UK tarmac (the stone size is specified larger than most countries in continental Europe). I think all you will find with older hoods is that they are narrower and smaller. Older bikes tend to have a bit more spring in the forks which takes out...

Tubs need different rims to beaded tyres. The good news is that tubs were only ever on 700C rims, so almost any rim will fit. The only thing to check is the OLN (Over Locknut) distance of the rear hub - that's the inside width of the frame. Yours is most probably 120mm. So look for a 700C 120OLN...

Give the Witcomb a good clean and then ride it - I absolutely love mine. It's fast - especially as it has the clearances for modern fatter tyres and has all-day comfort. I rode the 113mile Dunwich Dynamo all-nighter last summer with no aches at all.

Not chrome but nickel plated. Chrome plating is always porous, rusts round the back and flakes, nickel generally is better but still suffers.

I have a Mirage one, Braze-on. £10 posted. If a 31.8mm band/braze clamp is any use I will chuck that in too.

Having owned both, I would go for the P7; it rides like a scalded cat and always brings a smile. It’s the one I kept. I wouldn’t worry about rust like that - some aluminium foil and soapy water will get that off. Afterwards I use car wax to keep moisture out, it only needs doing once a year...

Hmmm, every day a school day! Just looked on the Classic Lightweights Reynolds transfer page and there is purple 753, never knew that. This looks like the master of the one in your photo (metric Reynolds tube I guess): https://equusbicycle.com/bike/reynolds/toptubes/toptubes 6.pdf

Very basic bike - great for transport but zero value beyond that. You could happily ride it to the pub or chain it up outside the station all day. £20?

Looks like a slightly dodgy scanned repro one.