Raleigh Clubman (80s) advice needed

You'll not regret fixing it up as a tourer mate regardless of wether the parts are period correct or not and i use to have an aluminum hybrid which seemed okay on comfort on short to medium length trips but just wasn't upto the task of prolonged comfort on long trips hence why i got rid of it on ebay so i hope to see a build thread for yours in the near future so i take it you'll be getting the frame and forks sorted 1st then mate ..
 
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Cheers for the offer. I'll have a check to see what parts I've got and what condition they're in first. I'm definitely going down the 700c wheelset option for the amount of tyre choice is available and might have a spare groupset lying around to put on it. Im a huge fan of 1x10 or 1x11 groupsets so might do that. The gaps in between gears is bigger but love the simplicity. First thing is to get the awful paint off it! Can't believe how bad it is.
 
Well if the frame will happily take a 1x11 setup then go for it as you quite rightly say the gear choice will be better plus i'd be tempted to stick with a friction gear lever as i love the simplicity of it myself although it doesn't suit every one ..

Yes i'm really curious to see how the frameset looks atm from what you've said so far it seems as though it might of been painted with a brush although it is possible to get a decent paint finish that way ..
 
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The frame paint job itself isn't that bad but whoever did it has put the components back on before it was dry so there was random bits of paint on stuff and the downtube shifter clamp was stuck to the frame with paint haha. They also left the bottom bracket in when painting it so the threaded cups have got paint on them. It's banana yellow which just doesn't suit the bike at all.

The 1x11 or 1x10 I want to do will need to have the frame widened to 130mm as the rear wheel doesn't quite fit due to the width. Apparently it's quite a common to do when putting modern components/wheels on old frames. I've never used downtube or bar end friction shifters but I will probably use one. My preferred choice would be bar end. I might get one of those shifters where you can choose it to be friction or indexed incase I don't get on with the friction ones.

I'll get some before and after photos up for a build thread soon.
 
Seems like a chimp put all the parts on the frame from you've just described as even my very 1st frame that i painted was left for a week before re assembly began and i gave it a light T cut as well and my only regreat was not waxing and polishing it as i didn't know car wax existed back then although i did strip my frame and forks completely and cleaned all the parts up while the paint was curing ..

I had forgotten about widening older frame's hence why i didn't previously mention it as i've never done it myself and don't know the best way of doing it tbh .

My last sports bike had down tube friction shifters which i absolutely loved back then as they felt really smooth and a pleasure to use but if your not keen on down tube shifters then your choice of bar end shifter with the friction/indexed option is the best choice not only because you can use indexed if you don't like friction but if your unfortunate to have an incident out on the road affecting the rear mech then you can switch over to friction use until you can sort out the issue ;) ..

I look forward to the before and after pics with great interest mate and above all enjoy your project as it's one of the great pleasures of owning a retro ride ;) ..
 
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Good point about using friction shifters if the indexing messes up on the rear derailleur. With widening the frame I think my mate knows someone up here in Newcastle who can do it so shouldn't be too bad to sort out.

I'm going to be googling bike stuff now to see what I can sort out. I'm obsessed haha.
 
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Forgot to mention that I was also given a Saxon Sprint. Reynolds 531 steel frame. It's an absolute tonne weight. I understand that it's a road bike but how can they have made it so heavy? I don't know much about them but it's a nice looking bike. Doesn't seem in the same league as the raleigh though. Dunno whether to do this up as well or not
 
Yes mate having with indexed/friction option is quite handy as i found out when i came off my old Muddy Fox mtb on jacobs ladder and bent the rear mech hanger after owning the bike only 4 weeks :oops: so i put the gears in the friction option and went on my way ..

That's handy then if your mate knows of some one to widen the frame as it will be sorted properly without the faffing and worry of getting it done right :cool: .

Theirs no one on here that i know of that isn't obsessed with buying bike parts as it's all part and parcel of the fun of retro bike restoration ;) ..

Saxon rings a bell but i can't place where i've come across it and it being heavy suggests to me that it's only the main triangle that's 531 tubing unless you've got a a nearly complete bike with steel rim wheels and and bars n seat stem so what does the 531 sticker say then mate ..
 
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Bad news about crashing the mtb so early on. I was born in 1988 so when I started getting bikes it was trigger shifters and grip shifts as I rode MTBs. That's why I never used friction shifters. I've just tried the shifters on the saxon sprint and they are so smooth. Might keep them on it.

I checked the frame and it doesn't have the 531 stickers on it so it might not be but after doing some searching people have said that it is 531 haha. I'll keep searching. My main job is the raleigh for now though. I could even do the saxon into a single speed as I have the parts. So many ideas. So little time!
 
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