kelloggs pro tour

[Percybigun]

thats such a cool bike, exactly like mine (even the frame size) although i've put some modern bits on mine.

the weinmann single pivot calipers are crap yes! i fitted modern campagnolo veloce with modolo levers on mine and now the braking is awesome.

be very careful scrubbing the number/decal off the top tube, on mine the white paintwork (from the factory) had started flaking over the years, for no particular reason (the bike hasnt been abused). underneath where its flaked off, the yellow paintwork is rock solid and very thick. i had to respray my top tube because of this.

contrary to raleigh's excellent paintwork in the 80's, they made a bit of a bollox on the kelloggs frame white bits (obviously just a blowover).

mine was 11.5kg as standard, but now i've fitted some lighter bits its down to 10kg - and it will really motor. being a 21" frame the manoeuvreability is amazing.

i am toying with the idea of removing the front mech and smaller chainring (i never use it) and getting some carbon forks, which should take it down below 9kg.

 

[Chute55uk]

do you have any problems with it feeling like your going over the bars? my modern roadbike is 56cm and i can reach the hoods with ease but this seems a real stretch to the point i cant ride while resting on the hoods. when i do go for the hoods my weight shifts so far forwards it feels unstable. I am contemplating rotating the bars up a bit to raise the height of the hoods but I want to retain the bottom of the bar parallel to the ground look. I realise that i could move the levers round the bar but that would include a re wrap of the tape and me not being able to grab the lever when I'm in the drops. any ideas? I'm 5'10

 

[mrcpea]

ok story so far, in the three breaks I have had today I have,
stripped, cleaned and regreased the headset, it wanst too bad it was dirty but the bearings and races were shiny again after a wipe no pitting.
stripped cleaned and regreased the dry sounding freewheel. when i say stripped, I left it mounted, undid the l/h thread locking ring which holds the body to the cogs. the bearings were shiny and free so i dolloped a bit of grease in and did it back up.
reversed the brake cables so I dont go over the bars when I ride it home. adjusted the toe in, the rear caliper lock nut was loose so i adjusted them both to give the correct return.
fitted some pedals.
put 80 psi in the michelin tyres, no splits or cracks.
tried the seatpost and stem.....both moved freely although there was a fair amount of surface corrosion on the seatpost so I greased it until I can get some wet and dry on it.
I will ride it home, give it a good wash and degrease and take the 'racing' numbers off.
contemplating stripping the bb but I dont really want to disturb the cranks if I can help it.
then I will take some decent pictures.
Happy days

Hi,
Is there a tool you can buy for the purpose of removing the lock wheel in the centre of a freewheel? I assume it's a 2 pin tool of some kind?

Cheers

Richard

 

[Chute55uk]

I just used a punch pin and a sharp tap with a hammer it came free don't forget the thread is the other way so tap it clockwise and don't let the cogs fall off or your gonna be chasing bearings I put an old towel under it just in case

 

[Percybigun]

You can get a new sunrace 13-25 6 or 7-speed freewheel on ebay for £14, i stuck with my original for way too long and when i replaced it, it transformed the bike.

Mine has a shorter stem than yours, and i have the bars tilted slightly higher, and my levers are higher up, plus my saddle is set very far back so it feels fairly upright. I rode it for 20 odd years with it all as low as poss at the front and it felt fine. i've only raised it recently because my shoulders are getting old! I'm nearly 5'10" aswell BTW.

 

[mrcpea]

I just used a punch pin and a sharp tap with a hammer it came free don't forget the thread is the other way so tap it clockwise and don't let the cogs fall off or your gonna be chasing bearings I put an old towel under it just in case

Many thanks for that.
Thanks for the advice on which way to tap the lock ring off as well.
I have an old pointy freewheel to practice on too

 

[Chute55uk]

I am getting very used to it now, I put it alongside my new one and the bars sit a food 3 inches lowerso I Ijust need to ride it more

 

[big_dave]

Re:Kellogg's Pro Tour

This is my 1988 Kellogg's Pro Tour, Bought it about a month ago for the sum of £20 sorry to all the retro purists out there but I decided not to keep it original for the moment but will be put back to standard when I retire it and will restore it back to its original glory. I've gone 3x8 24 speed (MTB'er, not being a roadie I need all the granny gears I can get for the Derbyshire hills where I live)

For any Raleigh Boffins, help, I have noticed there appears to be two different frame/fork designs on this year of raleigh's of this model and other raleigh 501 models, the difference being:
Version 1) concealed rear brake cable in top tube and with unicrown forks.
Version 2) Rear brake cable routed on top of top tube with 3 ferrules/lugs, and with Forged fork crown.

There also appears to be different components fitted
v1) Shimano SIS R400 shifters, Shimano Mechs
v2) Raleigh branded friction white plastic aero levers, Sachs Huret mechs.

 

[Chute55uk]

nice bike big dave, are you sure its 1988? i saw a kelloggs pro tour but the top decal said pro tour '88 which ive never seen before I will try and find the picture.
just an update on this, I sold the bike to a friend shortly after starting this thread as I couldnt get on with the commute, however before selling it i retaped the bars with yellow tape and added some aero levers. I regretted it almost instantly but knowing my mate I had an inkling it wouldnt see much action so in april this year I bought a new Genisis reynolds 725 frame to replace my specialized allez (2010) and then offered him the allez frame set as a swap to him. As I suspected the bike had just sat in his garage doing nothing and he duly ripped my arm off as he had enough new bits to build the allez into something modern and more to his taste.
So I have her back, not to be moved on again, I have fitted a 105 front mech and will be looking to upgrade the other parts to early 90,s 105 stuff if I can get it for the right price.
updated pics to follow.

 

[big_dave]

Re:

From what I can see of the frame number it's an '88? although yours is the the same as featured in the '89 brochure, I have seen loads on ebay with the same frame/fork set up as mine, although your version is the rarer of the 2 from what I've seen.

I fitted a Shimano UN55 cartridge BB, loads better than the original setup, and fitted shimano dual pivot brake calipers again vastly improved braking but frame needs re-bushing/redrilling to fit and fork crown rear hole re-drilled. 8 speed screw on freewheel, weinmann xr18 rims, SIS shifters, Tourney direct mount rear mech, Swalbe laguna 700x23c. Shimano Alivio SG-X mtb crank. I plan to keep hold of it, and not sell on. I currently ride a 2003 Giant XtC MTB owned from new and custom built, it's been over 25 years since last owned a road bike lol ( '87 Record Sprint).