Can retro MTBs still be ridden hard?

Not quite true. Aluminium is not more brittle. Unlike steel it has a finite life before it fatigues and starts to crack. You can flex a bit of steel until the end of time (provided it's below a certain loading) and it will never fatigue. Ever. Aluminium will crack eventually after a lot of load cycles.
To give Aluminium a decent fatigue life, it has to be very rigid, which is why aluminium frames are stiffer as they have very thick walls to the tubing. Aluminium itself is less stiff than steel (hence the thick walls). The art in an aluminium frame is to make it such that the fatigue life is very long...say 20+ years? It always seems rare to hear of cracked Alu Konas, they seem to have been cautiously designed. Usually it's the exotica which were intended for a short racing life that go.

There are plenty of 1930s steel frames around. A steel frame can crack if you design or fabricate it badly.

I agree with the conclusion - check the weld areas when you give the bike a major service. Usually it goes around the head tube, occasionally bottom bracket as these are the highest-stressed parts of the bike.
I cracked a new fat bike aluminum frame. The factory replaced it, claimed others had also cracked and they blamed poor heat treating. Last summer I rode a 12 hour time trial and I used several vintage steel framed bikes. The track was open for testing the day before the actual trial. I rode my 1930s Os Gear 4 speed with early 531 tubing. The road track had wicked high speed corners and the bike had a lot of flex, the chain would also occasionally rub on the front chain guide if I stood and cranked hard. The frame was either too lightly built or was worn out so it was used for the parade lap. The recommendation for carbon bars is to replace them every year, titanium and aluminum bars are to be replaced every two years and chrome moly are replaced when they bend. Steel will bend, the others snap and this can be catastrophic. There is a video of Danny McCasker snapping off his aluminum bar when landing a drop from a phone booth. I’ve had my carbon bars on my main mountain bike for 4 years and it still hasn’t snapped.
 
mmm, yummy Cotic BFE. it's on the short list of bikes to replace the inbred, but I want 27.5. :) note, doesn't look broken (refer to other discussion on modern geometry) :)

Go on ….. NVC …. Go 29…..

As I have written in other reviews, I thought the Stanton ti29er and BfEMax would be slow and sluggish in the twisty stuff and feel cumbersome getting up to speed. Bear in mind I am only 5 foot 7.
Not so at all. Both have short offset forks, and the handling is incredibly quick and neutral….
Frankly, the Stanton is as intuitive as a BMX in singletrack - and I mean that seriously, not as a flip comparative bit of rhetoric. I was amazed. And of course the 29 wheels give a smooooth journey across chunky trails…
 
I think there are two aspects to the OP's question:
1. What's retro like compared to modern (loads of threads on that one)
and
2. Can you still ride them as hard as originally?
To which the answer is definitely YES.
 
If you don't care about retro purity, you can ride them much harder than originally. I've had my 1993 Stumpjumper since new. Like most bikes that are really ridden, it was modified/personalized as soon as it came home. Since it's been my main bike for most of the time since then, it's sporadically had parts replaced due to wear, but also improve fit and performance. Few original parts remain on the bike. It's a vastly better performing bike now than it was in the '90s because of the changes.

In the '90s, it was really sketchy on steep downhills due mainly to the low bar height and width and long stem. Even set at the maximum height limit line on the quill stem, the bars were around 9cm below the saddle, which, with my slightly negative ape index (shorter arms than average), had me riding with a road bike flat back fit. I had also put on 56cm wide Zoom Brahma bars. They were decent for easy trails and road coming from a road bike back then, but I didn't realize the negative effect they had on handling off road, particularly in downhills and carving corners. Now, with much wider bars (74cm, 17degree backsweep to keep my wrists happy), a higher position about level with the saddle (partly due to longer fork), which gives me a much more upright position but still good for cross country/steep climbing and 2cm shorter stem (but still considered long at 11cm), it's gone from sketchy to fun on downhills. Of course, I'm talking about trails good for cross country bikes, which is 98% of the trails in my area anyway, not really gnarly stuff.

Other key changes that improve on the '90s setup of the bike:
- Retro bikes had long brake levers, 2.5 finger on my bike. With a one-finger lever setup, more fingers stay wrapped around the grips and you have much better confidence on the bars when it's fast and rough. With well dialed in V and canti brake (and Kool Stop salmon pads), braking power is good with one finger braking on my bike.
- Specialized Future Shock 46mm fork (Rockshox Mag 21 internals) to 1997 Marzocchi Z2 Bomber (65mm). Though it's moving from retro fork to retro fork, and the Z2 is much heavier and shorter in travel than current XC forks, they hold up well in performance today, unlike the original forks, which I couldn't get parts for anyway.
- The original 3x7 gearing wasn't low enough (26x30 low gear) for the climbing I like to do. I've had 1x on a newer bike, and that only confirmed that I like 2x best. I'm now on 2x9 with a 24x34 low gear, and I can easily do tech/steep climbs that I couldn't do back then.
- Mountain bikes had longer cranks than road bikes back then, probably because they didn't fit low enough low gears. Ditching the 175mm cranks for my favored 170mms improved ergonomics a bunch for my leg length (no longer pedaling squares). The ground clearance for pedaling over roots also improved (especially combined with longer fork and larger tires).
- 1.95 to 2.2 tires are a big improvement off road. I like fast rolling tires, and the Continental Race King RaceSports are perfect for where I ride.
- Retro saddles didn't have perineum relief, which I could get away with, but a modern saddle is comfortable for longer.

I had a 2015 Stumpjumper Elite 29er hardtail (bought used in 2017) for 3 years until it got stolen out of my house (burglars left the '93 Stumpjumper). It had carbon Roval wheels, a high end Rockshox SID Brain 80mm fork, carbon XX1 cranks, carbon bars, Shimano XT M8000 1x11 and brakes. As a cross country hardtail, it is a good comparison to the kind of bike the '93 bike is (rather than comparing it to a bike park bike or long travel hardtail). It's not that different than the hardtails a World Cup cross country racer might still occasionally choose to use, but also not that different to the '93 bike. The '15 bike was 2.4lbs lighter than the '93 is currently (though I could probably get it down to the same weight), but I think they'd clock similar times on a race course because I have much faster tires on the '93 than I had on the '15. I know racers have done controlled, timed comparisons of different wheel sizes, and the differences between 26" and 29" (and 27.5") are actually kind of hard to tease out, and depend on the course.

After the '15 bike was stolen, I put more effort into dialing in the '93 bike just right, and it wasn't long before I realized that the performance differences were essentially zero for the kind of trails I like to ride. Since I also value keeping durable goods going instead of throwing things away every few years, and have a long attachment to the bike being the original owner, I've decided not to replace the stolen '15 with a modern bike. I also like the idea of owning just one bike (not counting the road bike I left at my parent's place in the '90s).
 
Very good points on adapting retros to improve performance and ride quality. A few of my older bikes have improved a lot with shorter stems and hi-rise bars together with XTR v-brakes instead of cantilevers.
 
I like it FTO and GreenC - it’s the right thing to do for the planet and it is just huge fun making a retro bike perform well. I have a commuter hack which is modified in exactly the same way and is just great. I like the Huge Circulation of Parts - and if that results in some bikes which are catalogue-accurate and some which are heavily modified for performance, then I think all is right with the world.

And it’s nice to have longer, reflective posts. Gets me thinking….
 
I've got an orange 224gbr and fully restored it also paid the extra for custom decals and new dorado forks, it looks amazing, but I have retired it from any tracks or off road adventures as there is so few of them left. I agree with others, you can take the oldies on the runs but you will pay heavy if anything breaks.
 
Any bicycle can be ridden hard. Too many people are too alarmist, of course I think you should be more careful with old ultralight carbon components, ultralight alu and even steel etc, especially if you're a heavier rider but at the end of the day you could take a granny anchor out on the trails and have a blast. As much as bike tech has advanced and as much as we have found ways to improve geometry, they're still just bicycles.
 
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