Adventure Bike?

Harryburgundy":17jexly2 said:
Lot's of very useful stuff there PF, many thanks ;-)

I excel at two things: googling and avoiding spend money.

I won't be buying tyres for a while so will be interested in your critique but I do have my mind set on tubeless...one puncture already this week albeit on skinny thin Kenda Kozmik Lites

Tubeless is a win whatever you do - fewer punctures, can run lower pressure, and you lose the rolling resistance that comes from friction between the tube and tyre. Just remember that for cycling on gravel etc that fat is faster if tyre construction is equal.

Come to think of it, I have links for a lot of this stuff in my evernotes acc:

http://www.mckramppi.com/en/bike04renga ... alyysi.htm
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 3&t=114537
http://velonews.competitor.com/2007/08/ ... edux_13059
http://www.slowtwitch.com/Products/Thin ... _3795.html
http://jv-cycling.blogspot.co.uk/2010/0 ... ta-is.html
wide is fast for road
http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/ ... ren_209268
lower psi can be faster
http://velonews.competitor.com/2007/08/ ... edux_13059
Tyres can make 25% difference on road, drum testing wrong:
http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/06/1 ... -of-tires/
http://velochimp.com/2006/11/rolling-resistance/
Charts
http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk/tech/JL.htm
http://www.mtbonline.co.za/info/mtb-tyr ... stance.htm
http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/tir ... 19392.html

...Just treat all the RR results from drum tests with EXTREME skepticism: Heine's roll tests prove they can be very misleading - and become more so as you move on to rougher surfaces increasing vibration.

These are Heine's thoughts on fork trail:

http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/02/1 ... -geometry/

Otoh, Heine, although he may have won a NASA fellowship, thinks its impossible to make chainstays for a performance bike that will allow tyres wider than 40mm. So he's capable of deep idiocy in defense of his beloved 1950s French style 650b tourer/adventure bikes. So again, skepticism advised!
 
I suppose I have always done the sort of riding you're getting into.

30-odd miles, not trying to keep up with anyone.

I would save £1000 and use any old rigid MTB, personally.

One thing I am experimenting with at the minute is a second set of barends inboard of the brake levers. Gives a nice extra riding position like having a set of drops.
 
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Oh great the next marketing hype to try and sell more bikes , isn't this just a new name for a hybrid or a tourer or even at a push a CX, can the same not be achieved by fitting larger tyres on and old racer or rigid forks and slick tyres on a mtb and maybe drop bars , cynical me never .
 
Yeah it is a CX bike as far as I can tell. The bigger wheel size would be a benefit over using an old MTB though I guess. Anyway, not really for me, I like my road bike and like my mountain bikes, dont see what they cant do what an "adventure bike" can.
 
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Or....(blatant plug #29) I know a guy could build you one of these (takes drops, normals and butterfly/trekking bars) with as many braze-ons as you can think of....wink.wink.
 

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I have a kona honky tonk. Steel road bike so a bit more forgiving than the admittedly lighter aluminium models around the same price. I'm sure it could fit mud guards if needed.

Plenty of old tourers out there that would do what you want.
 
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