A modern Reynolds 753?

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rusty bodie":3ikjnhja said:
oh dear . . . :roll:
so, in short, i want it to be as close to the real thing as possible.

i thank you!

:D
but most of the differences in weight are in the groupset. The weight difference between good steel (say 531/653) and very good steel (753/85
3 for example) is minimal in real terms. I'd probably even hazard a guess that you'd need to check tube diameters (internal and external) to be certain if you had three frames of 653, 753 or 853 in front of you.
I'd just get best tube set you can afford and go from there.
And fwiw, a grand is a small price to pay for a full custom steel frame, last one I looked at was nearer twice that, in 853. A Sub kilo carbon frame was cheaper.
 
Re: Re:

NeilM":vjx0ndfi said:
That's why you pay a framebuilder a thousand pounds for a few hundred poundsworth of steel tubes.
Few hundred? More like a couple of hundred for the whole lot, lugs, tubes, dropouts.........
 
Re:

Check out Argos's website

The hierarchy of various columbus and reynolds tubeset builds is shown there (plus price).


Looking forward to see this coming together. I always though 853 was a very good tubeset, the top of the line Greg Lemond bikes were offered in this tubeset.

Regards,

Pat
 
Do some talking to your framebuilder a lot of the new steels whilst amazing numbers are v short butted meant for tig welding so lug points could be ending on v thin tubing, though I've seen some very modern Roberts lugged using Columbus spirit tubes,certain some tubesets drawn for both tig and lugged construction or if not builder would use shortish lugs,other point about feel is apart from the chemistry of the new new steels is their diameter the feel pf our older frames and comfort and stylish looks is down to the approx 1 inch tubes so maybe don't go too oversize but 1st port of call is talking to the framebuilder
 
Re:

all very valid points, gents. thanks for your input.

i love shaun's suggestion of buying an old frame, stripping it for tubes and getting the framebuilder to re-assemble it! can you imagine his face!

:shock:
 
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hamster":3o257edh said:
Apart from the UTS and stiffness ... [of 725] ... being higher than 753 or 631 (see the bar chart on page 4), plus being available in thin wall sizes (IIRC some even thinner than 753). :cool: While it starts off as 4130 steel, the whole point is that it is heat-treated giving it the extra stiffness. 753 is simply heat treated 531.
Extra strength, but not extra stiffness. Look at the bar chart again: all the steels listed have a stiffness (Young's modulus) of 207 GPa.
 
Re: Re:

rusty bodie":z1zi5o1w said:
i love shaun's suggestion of buying an old frame, stripping it for tubes and getting the framebuilder to re-assemble it! can you imagine his face!

:shock:
wouldn't knock it, a shop I used to frequent had an old guy (70s) come in with a mid range 531 frame in size gargantuan that he'd picked up at a second hand shop for a song and asked if they could resize it (he was about 5'3" apparently).
When they said that it really wouldn't be worthwhile and they wouldn't be interested in taking on the work he got a huff on and said he'd do it himself.


He came back about a month later having un brazed the relevant joints, recut the tube ends (no idea how well it was mitred) and brazing it all back together with some kit he had in the garage. Geometry was interesting, but it worked!

They used to see him riding around on it fairly regularly for a few years after that.......
 
Re: Re:

mattr":3u4vli1y said:
rusty bodie":3u4vli1y said:
i love shaun's suggestion of buying an old frame, stripping it for tubes and getting the framebuilder to re-assemble it! can you imagine his face!

They used to see him riding around on it fairly regularly for a few years after that.......

...until it fell to bits underneath him and he ended up under the number 21 bus!!

:facepalm:
 
Oh lordy you need medication every time you log onto Retro well I do anyway,a deconstructed large frame trimmed down would mean the butted ends would be lost and secondly and yes I know we have all had wprk done on steel frames but a lot of the tubing esp topend doesn't like being reheated{hot enough to remelt the brass} as it can enbrittle metals grain structure, Richards Sachs has written some very good stuff on this that comes from real world experience
 
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