RetroBIKE general guide to stubborn bottom bracket removal

REKIBorter":xdzz3exy said:
And a long lever

sdc11695_w800_h600_510.jpg

allow me to recommend NEVER applying that kind of leverage to a workstand
 
I used to work for a company that made large pumps to circulate water in the BIG power stations. We did an inspection on one unit and recommended they replace a couple of the main studs, and we gave them an estimate of our cost. CEGB as it was, thought we were ripping them off and put their guys on the job. we carried on inspecting the other pumps and came back to find one guy 30ft up on a set of step ladders holding a pair of stilsons onto the stud (it was 3inch diameter), and another about 40foot away, up another set of step ladders holding the end of a piece of scaffold pole which was on the stilsons. By this time threads were well messed up, and the stud wasnt moving.

Next morning they asked us to do the job, so price went up. :) if you havent got a good way to support everything leverage is useless.
 
My brother is a Snap-On guy, my father an SK guy. Both are professional mechanics. Either is professional quality but I don't think anybody beats Craftsman for warranty. I might be able to get my wrench replaced but I doubt it. If it was a Craftsman I wouldn't have much doubt.

The inside part of the Park BB removal tool where the ratchet fits is pretty much toast. Surprised the ratchet gave first as any ratchet is now out of the question. After using a crescent wrench and monkey wrench the outer surface to place a wrench is now stripped.

The rest of the bike cleaned up about as expected but the BB is a stuck pig and one more chain suck might end it's life. If I can get it rebuilt there's a roving pack of homeless bikers I know of I'd donate the rebuilt bike to.

WD-40 or coke a help in this case? I don't care about crapping a few tools along the way. Beats tossing a Stumpy in the trash.
 
Okay, so brute force and ignorance not working then, perhaps try the scientific approach- heat, heat the bearing shell squirt in dismantling oil, plus gas I use and try the extractor. If the extractor faces are buggered, use a stillson pipe wrench they will grip anything, failing that, if the extractor has a square drive in the centre, fit a sliding tee wrench and turn applying equal pressure to both ends of the tee, and keep at it until it budges, but bear in mind as soon as the BB heats up things might not budge, although rapid heating of the BB shell might be enough to break the rust seal.

The kill or cure approach, blow torch the bearings and burn out the seals, then drift the balls out of their races to free the axle and remove it, then attack the outer races with a dremel fitted with cutting disk.

Just remember, the BB went in, so therefore it will come out - eventually.
 
Tapping around the outside of the shell with ... I think it was a copper punch ... was a vital part in freeing the stuck fixed cup in my '91 Karakoram Elite frame.
 
The last tough bb i dealt with involved using a park remover[the one with the big handles on each side and a lump hammer
Bike was a 98 marin muirwoords so not the best but despite the bashing it took the BB came out fine.

There is a BB extractor that is slightly bigger and cuts its way in to give a tight grip.Might be Shop only so ask at your lbs and see if they have one :?
 
Cheers for this LGF.
Used your method on bro-in-laws bike.

Took another frame and BB tool to local Agricultural hardware store.
The guy pulled out numerous bolts and washers until we found the right ones for the job. After which he charged me NOWT ! (Goodrowes in Chichester if anyone is passing :excellent shop).

Once it was all tightly bolted up and having been fed on WD40 for a week, came out without need of huge leverage.

Anyway is it just me or is there a market for a BB tool that screws into the spindle as half the problem is it doesn't seem to get much purchase on the splines.
 
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