RetroBIKE general guide to stubborn bottom bracket removal
- Thread starter legrandefromage
- Start date
Just done one today, that didn't initially seem to want to budge.
I didn't have anything that long handled, nor did I have access to a bench vice - and a black and decker workmate does not equal a bench vice, but in fairness, doesn't fall apart when you hoof the fecking thing, either.
Right foot, 4th toe: 0, Black and Decker workmate: 1. It was a late kick-off, and some dubious fouls, but the workmate withstood the punishment like Leonidas' army. Well when I say that, it didn't fall over or look the slightest bit perturbed when I booted it. In retrospect, that's just hyperbole, isn't it... a workmate has precisely nothing in common with an ancient greek army.
What I did have is some Plusgas, a decent BB tool (actually a genuine Shimano BB tool) a crank bolt with a big metal washer holding the tool to the BB cup. Tried a bit of gentle shocks using a hammer - didn't seem to do anything to the non drive side. Then I had a go at the drive side, carefully squirted a bit of Plusgas in the thread bit, whilst covering the rest with a cloth.
Then some gentle strikes with a hammer on a big hefty spanner - couldn't believe it moved so easy. Drive side then came out easily, and when I moved to the other side, the non drive side cup would turn by hand.
Threads were clean and there looked to be some grease - I can't remember whether I took it out when nearly new, to apply some grease (did build a few bikes at the time, so may have done) or whether that's simply how it was assembled, but it's been in since 95.
Lessons learnt - UN51s seem bombproof - the thing is still silky smooth. And penetrating oil and light shock hits with a small hammer may be able to break the stiction, if moderate force hasn't.
I didn't have anything that long handled, nor did I have access to a bench vice - and a black and decker workmate does not equal a bench vice, but in fairness, doesn't fall apart when you hoof the fecking thing, either.
Right foot, 4th toe: 0, Black and Decker workmate: 1. It was a late kick-off, and some dubious fouls, but the workmate withstood the punishment like Leonidas' army. Well when I say that, it didn't fall over or look the slightest bit perturbed when I booted it. In retrospect, that's just hyperbole, isn't it... a workmate has precisely nothing in common with an ancient greek army.
What I did have is some Plusgas, a decent BB tool (actually a genuine Shimano BB tool) a crank bolt with a big metal washer holding the tool to the BB cup. Tried a bit of gentle shocks using a hammer - didn't seem to do anything to the non drive side. Then I had a go at the drive side, carefully squirted a bit of Plusgas in the thread bit, whilst covering the rest with a cloth.
Then some gentle strikes with a hammer on a big hefty spanner - couldn't believe it moved so easy. Drive side then came out easily, and when I moved to the other side, the non drive side cup would turn by hand.
Threads were clean and there looked to be some grease - I can't remember whether I took it out when nearly new, to apply some grease (did build a few bikes at the time, so may have done) or whether that's simply how it was assembled, but it's been in since 95.
Lessons learnt - UN51s seem bombproof - the thing is still silky smooth. And penetrating oil and light shock hits with a small hammer may be able to break the stiction, if moderate force hasn't.
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Blueridge is being b*astard BB drive side cup. Two of us have just had a go. soaked it overnight, tried a vice. Not tried heat yet. off to find a scaffolding pole.........
beginning to doubt: drive side = left hand thread
beginning to doubt: drive side = left hand thread
syncrosfan
Senior Retro Guru
Good quality BB tool (I use the Park Tool one) + impact driver (I use a Milwaukee M18 cordless one from work). Defeats even the most stubborn BB. I will not even attempt to use muscle power to remove any BB that seems stuck. One word of warning though, it will be LOUD! (my wife almost got a heart attack when I used the impact driver at home one day). The advantage of this method: you can continuously press the tool into the BB cup while the impact driver does its job beating out the seized cup. Generally speaking the left hand cup (non -drive side) comes out easier than the drive side, but even the drive side will come out with some anti seize oil squirted in there (just a matter of time).
This method never failed me but you'll need access to a good quality impact driver (they're expensive).
This method never failed me but you'll need access to a good quality impact driver (they're expensive).
Sheldon Brown has a good way of using a bolt and washers to free a stuck fixed cup.
http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
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