PhillB
GT Fan
Lookin' good!
Yellow Hobbs winter beater of distinction (WBOD)
- Thread starter Jonny69
- Start date
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
Rear axle re-spaced. You can see I’ve got a nice gap now. The derailleur is right at the far end of its stop though, so I’m hoping it’s going to reach the small cog. I can probably space the derailleur out by 1mm-1.5mm if I need to, but any further than that and the B screw won’t have enough contact with the tang on the dropout.
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
I've roughly cabled up the brakes. Front works well but the rear has a bit of a torturous path around the seat cluster that I need to re-do because it's got too much friction. Also I couldn't work out why it was very lopsided, but then I remembered I haven't re-centred the wheel after I re-spaced the axle. Duh!
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
I tried those but the stops on the frame seem to be the same size as the cable outer on one side and the cable inner on the other. The shape and position of the cable hanger I've got on the seat bolt isn't ideal either. It could do with being a bit longer so I don't have to bend the cable into such an awkward shape to get it round the seat cluster.
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
This has been fighting me. I have the rear mech cabled up. It *just* pulls across the full range:
However, I’d heard the Jubilee mech needed a lot of cable pull and even with the big pull diameter on the Huret shifters I’m using it needs nearly 180° of lever pull to move the mech from one end to another. At that end of the travel, the friction in the shifter can’t overcome the pull from the derailleur spring. That won’t make for good riding.
Add to that there’s a lot of play in the mech as it’s quite worn, so I don’t think it’s going to work well. Then add to that I found the top jockey wheel is seized when I went to put the chain on. So I think I might be changing my plans.
Then the brakes. I shortened the link over the seat cluster which reduced the cable friction but it’s still too high for the cantis to return cleanly. I also wasn’t completely happy with having no inline adjusters and the alloy ferrules I used kept jumping out the left-hand lever where the rear cantis aren’t pulling the cable all the way back. The Mafac adjusters are long things and, I can’t fully work this out because these are a bit before my time, but it looks like it’s the hood that holds them in place. Mafac adjusters are £££ and original hoods are ££££££. I’d have to get some aftermarket hoods realistically, but I had concerns about the fit. So, instead, I fitted a threaded inline adjuster by tapping the top of the lever with an M6 tap:
This holds the cable nicely, but now the lever doesn’t fully return because the levers only have very weak springs and the cable run inside the lever is now shorter. You can see the gap in the image above. Sigh.
So what next? I think I can reduce the cable friction by running the cable along the top of the tube and I think I’ve got some metal cable clips. Gears, as disappointing as it will be, I think I’ll be abandoning the Huret Jubilee.
While I’ve got it back apart I’m also tempted to swap the ratios so that the cassette has the 28T cog on the back. The 12-28 ratios are 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28, so I’d have a 13-28 instead of 12-25. I’m unlikely to use the smaller end of that cassette with a 54/46 up front and the whole point of this bike was to have gears!
However, I’d heard the Jubilee mech needed a lot of cable pull and even with the big pull diameter on the Huret shifters I’m using it needs nearly 180° of lever pull to move the mech from one end to another. At that end of the travel, the friction in the shifter can’t overcome the pull from the derailleur spring. That won’t make for good riding.
Add to that there’s a lot of play in the mech as it’s quite worn, so I don’t think it’s going to work well. Then add to that I found the top jockey wheel is seized when I went to put the chain on. So I think I might be changing my plans.
Then the brakes. I shortened the link over the seat cluster which reduced the cable friction but it’s still too high for the cantis to return cleanly. I also wasn’t completely happy with having no inline adjusters and the alloy ferrules I used kept jumping out the left-hand lever where the rear cantis aren’t pulling the cable all the way back. The Mafac adjusters are long things and, I can’t fully work this out because these are a bit before my time, but it looks like it’s the hood that holds them in place. Mafac adjusters are £££ and original hoods are ££££££. I’d have to get some aftermarket hoods realistically, but I had concerns about the fit. So, instead, I fitted a threaded inline adjuster by tapping the top of the lever with an M6 tap:
This holds the cable nicely, but now the lever doesn’t fully return because the levers only have very weak springs and the cable run inside the lever is now shorter. You can see the gap in the image above. Sigh.
So what next? I think I can reduce the cable friction by running the cable along the top of the tube and I think I’ve got some metal cable clips. Gears, as disappointing as it will be, I think I’ll be abandoning the Huret Jubilee.
While I’ve got it back apart I’m also tempted to swap the ratios so that the cassette has the 28T cog on the back. The 12-28 ratios are 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28, so I’d have a 13-28 instead of 12-25. I’m unlikely to use the smaller end of that cassette with a 54/46 up front and the whole point of this bike was to have gears!
sjcprojects
Orange 🍊 Fan
I had a similar issue recently - I actually found that counter-intuitively, using a smaller piece of outer cable so that the routing was straighter rather than curving upwards helped. It doesn't quite look right, but I found I couldn’t get rid of the friction any other way. The routing on these old bikes is not always exactly optimal
. Of course having said that, all bikes vary so I can't say for sure that will work, but it could be worth a try.
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
Yeah that’s not a bad idea. I don’t know for sure, but I wonder if the canti mounts have been added later, because where the cable stops are positioned would work perfectly well with calliper brakes.I had a similar issue recently - I actually found that counter-intuitively, using a smaller piece of outer cable so that the routing was straighter rather than curving upwards helped. It doesn't quite look right, but I found I couldn’t get rid of the friction any other way. The routing on these old bikes is not always exactly optimal
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
A quick lunchtime re-implementation.
-Re-ran the rear brake cable and that now works perfectly.
-Swapped the rear derailleur back to the Shimano 105. Chain on and that works perfectly end-to-end.
Yet to cable up the front derailleur. I’ve just put an Exage one on for now as a chain catcher, because I need to get a band-on mount for my matching 105 one.
Test ride:
Yep, that works. Tightened a few things up and made a few adjustments. Shifts great with the Huret friction shifter which I wasn’t expecting, brakes work better than expected. Might ride that to work on Monday then, subject to weather
-Re-ran the rear brake cable and that now works perfectly.
-Swapped the rear derailleur back to the Shimano 105. Chain on and that works perfectly end-to-end.
Yet to cable up the front derailleur. I’ve just put an Exage one on for now as a chain catcher, because I need to get a band-on mount for my matching 105 one.
Test ride:
Yep, that works. Tightened a few things up and made a few adjustments. Shifts great with the Huret friction shifter which I wasn’t expecting, brakes work better than expected. Might ride that to work on Monday then, subject to weather
PhillB
GT Fan
Lovely to see another Hobbs back on the road!!A quick lunchtime re-implementation.
-Re-ran the rear brake cable and that now works perfectly.
-Swapped the rear derailleur back to the Shimano 105. Chain on and that works perfectly end-to-end.
Yet to cable up the front derailleur. I’ve just put an Exage one on for now as a chain catcher, because I need to get a band-on mount for my matching 105 one.
Test ride:
View attachment 926243
Yep, that works. Tightened a few things up and made a few adjustments. Shifts great with the Huret friction shifter which I wasn’t expecting, brakes work better than expected. Might ride that to work on Monday then, subject to weather
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