The “Ultimate” Steel 90s build??? :)

Tricky1977

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Hi,

I’m relatively new to all of this, to me 90s bikes aren’t so much retro more the bikes I remember as a teenager.
That said along with my 93 Marin build I’ve started to accumulate some bits and pieces for what I laughingly am thinking of as being the ultimate (read nice) 90s Frankenstein build. But I need some help with ideas as I’m actually a bit clueless :)

So far I have one Easton ct2 carbon seat post (27mm), XT front mech and well...and various bits and bobs from a sacrificial 93 bike, brakes maybe. So not a lot :)

I just need advice on a light steel frame aiming for 1.5-1.6kg (edit more like 1.8-1.9) is this even possible?
Maybe some carbon forks and carbon bars, but no idea what’s good
The rest I will try and furnish with XT bits as XTR seems too pricey
But I also remember Hope being very good. So maybe hope hubs and Mavic rims (no idea on model number).
I’m looking for light and responsive, not really thinking of suspension at all. Doesn’t have to be authentic period bits either, just used

Sorry for the ramble, any advice or pointers gratefully received:)
 
Re:

Nice idea, but to me it sounds a bit contradictory to aim for the ultimate steel 90's build and then use a lot of carbon parts :roll: ;) ..

Enjoy collecting, building and riding!

BTW: I have a lovely steel frame from the 90's for sale, but that weighs nowhere near to what you're aiming for (maybe if you strip the paint..): viewtopic.php?f=2&t=385563
 
Re: Re:

Double-E F":29hxxn7t said:
Nice idea, but to me it sounds a bit contradictory to aim for the ultimate steel 90's build and then use a lot of carbon parts :roll: ;) ..

Enjoy collecting, building and riding!

BTW: I have a lovely steel frame from the 90's for sale, but that weighs nowhere near to what you're aiming for (maybe if you strip the paint..): viewtopic.php?f=2&t=385563

You’re right of course, I just happened to buy a carbon seat post and people have said they absorb vibration quite well... never ridden alu but I like the (apparent) direct pedal response I get with steel, would consider other materials.... just an idea right now

Edit: and that is for the offer the frame looks great, but I’m determined to get under 2kg for the frame
 
Re:

If you have the budget €800 shipped there is a rare collectable FAT Chance 1992 10th anniversary F&F on a German forum. Its a Medium size so for upto 6’ or so. As light as it gets for steel and beautifully hand made in the US not Taiwan. These have been built up at 21lbs

( not my bike btw)
 
Thanks but that’s going to be a bit above my budget :)
Was thinking more a Marin Team or Team issue, should be around 1.8kg I think, the frames can go for £50
 
Tricky1977":q4v3g5n6 said:
Thanks but that’s going to be a bit above my budget :)
Was thinking more a Marin Team or Team issue, should be around 1.8kg I think

The 10th uses ‘unique’ to FAT Chance custom spec super thin True Temper tubes, suitable for a rider 180lbs or less only. Steel is steel of course and a Marin Team is not that much less iirc but mass produced. 10th will always hold its value and may appreciate ;) plus they are incredible to ride.
 
In the search of the holy light steel frame knowing well that which one has the best tubeset/structure/sizing is paramount. Tange Ultimate Superlight, Ritchey Logic Prestige, Columbus Nivacrom, Dedacciai Zero 18MCDV6, Tange Prestige, True Temper OXIII or any other high-end tubeset which was the order of day in the 90's will be light enough and if not abused/rusted, reasonably dependable too.

What matters most is how you feel riding on them, though. "Feel" is crucial I think and weight - while can be a huge factor - can only contribute for the better (or the worse e. g. durability, bad flex) ride characteristics, provided the framebuilders were spot on and knew their business anyway.

I recommend the following brands' top level steel bikes to choose from while on a tight budget: Kastle, Stevens, Sunn, MTB Cycletech, high end Spesh' Stumpjumpers, Marin, Scott, Univega, Schwinn/Paramount, DiamondBack, Jamis.

Their high end (team, pro, ultimate, race etc.) "halo" models were mass produced, but highy expensive bikes, built for dedicated or posh riders. They were quite performance focused and well-thought out to enjoy them even nowadays, while retroness giving them plenty sex-appeal.

From the early '00s the regulations on frame strengths got stricter, which meant stronger and heavier frames were produced to comply with the new rules.

Always focus on the right size and fit though, don't fool yourself into that you'll love the bike if it's built up from a light frame anyway, so don't make poor choices. Also, if you are not featherweight - like me at 97 kg - always bear in mind that anything under 1.9-1.8 kg (sized "18 and up) can be a compromise durability-wise sadly, regardless of make, especially if it was made in the '90s for one-season racing purposes.

I tend to cling on to any nice steel frame which weighs 2 kg or less, sized 18" or bigger, knowing that the days of good ol' mass produced lightweight steel frames are long gone already and - thanks to the new " strength "rules - won't come along any time soon again :cry: :facepalm:

Currently building a Scott Pro Racing- 1910 gr. in "19, their last high end steel "Pro" frame from '95 - lovely indeed, built from LITEFLITE/969 tubes and home-modified by yours truly for V-brakes too. Got some 760 gr. A-head forks for it, so I try to get it under 10 kg when fully built up with 24 sp. XTR and some fancy titanium/boutique parts when it comes back from the painters. :)
 
Re:

You do seem quite focussed on low weight.. i’ve been there too and ultimately found that ‘90s bikes can only compete with modern bikes if they’re retromodded with carbon parts or to keep it proper retro you need the very best of everything, XTR etc and even then you’ll struggle.
Example: I built my ‘90s lightweight.. Ti frame, rigid fork, XTR, XT, Hope, Ti saddle, Mavic etc, all the good bits. It took a while and cost quite a lot. By comparison i recently bought my girlfriend a modest new Trek road bike with alu frame and entry level Sora groupset for under 700 quid. Nothing special at all. Both bikes weigh about the same at just over 9kg. I realise that’s an MTB vs road comparison but maybe you get my point. Kona Cinder Cones were 700 quid in the ‘90s and weigh about 12kg.
Point being... enjoy retro bikes for what they are but don’t expect super light unless you’re willing to go crazy exotic and spend a fortune, or use modern parts which sort of defeats the point of going retro.
The materials and tech has simply been surpassed in the intervening years. Be realistic about your weight-to-cost targets on your retro build and have fun!
Marin Pine Mountain is a great ‘90s frame IMO, quite light (relatively speaking!) and a wonderful ride.
 
Thanks fearfactoryüberalles, some great advice there, I was looking at a Team Marin or Scott or Kona, just because I remember them from back in the day. A few of the mid range Konas seem to come in at under 2kg for 18”. I’m 80kg so... :)

And Radnomad- totally get what you’re saying... it probably won’t be that low weight in the end but I want to aim low at least. Pine Mountain is on my shopping list as it’s the same frame I believe as the Team.
For me it’s not about competing with the newest models rather keeping it alive and buying value second hand items. And of course building it myself :)
 
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