switching taps....

twain

Retrobike Rider
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got a leaky kitchen tap, so, instead of replacing the washer, i feel like just chaning the taps as well.

fed up with having pillar taps, plus they are quite short, so if you have anything in the bowl, you have to take the bowl out of the sink to get a glass under the tap... :roll: 1st world problems....

anyway, peeves aside, what should i look for when changing from pillar taps (one cold/one hot obvs) to a mixer tap.....

will the holes be spaced at a standard distance so i can just go from this:

Kitchen_Style_Pillar


to this:

Lamona-Chrome-Deck-Mixer-Tap.jpg


or are there different distances i'll need to match up???

it'd be really nice if this is the case. so often i embark on 'simple' jobs like this and it ends up a mammoth overhaul...
 
You need a tap spanner and a couple of flexible hoses to make life simple. Check you hole centre to centre measurements. Always best to cut a clean end on pipe when refitting. Simple job really. Baths can be fiddly. Did all of ours last year.

a139fdd230d2df2e63b79c596acc7050_zps3wq2527j.jpg
 

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Make sure you put in some service valves if you don't already have them, you might rarely need them but you'll be glad you put them in when you do! You can get flexi hoses with the valves included.

Personally I like a proper "old fashioned" tap with a washer in it - the modern quarter-turn ceramic cartridge things are fine when they work but it doesn't take much to stop them working and it can be easier and cheaper to replace the whole tap than try and get a replacement cartridge.
 
Re:

it would not be retrobike,if some wag didnt say switch off the water before you start :facepalm:






so switch off the water before you start :D
 
just had a ganders under the sink and looks like i have valves and flexi pipes already fitted....
 

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I cheat. They cost more but I tend to use flexi pipe with a traditional nut at one end and at the other a isolating valve that has a push fit fixing at the other end.
 
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