Spoks too long/sticking out after wheel building?!?

To those talking about hub 'twist' this is an easy way to make sure it's right from the start. Also makes sure there's no cross under the valve hole.
Drop the first spoke in from the outside (inbound) and take it to the spoke hole immediately left of the valve hole. For 3 cross count 6 holes to the right on the hub and in the next hole put a spoke in from the inside (outbound) and take it to the second spoke hole to the right of the valve. Then lace the wheel, the twist will be right from the start. For 2 cross count 4 holes to the right, for 4 cross 8 holes. 👍 _20231031_213159.JPG _20231031_213331.JPG
 
Thanks
To those talking about hub 'twist' this is an easy way to make sure it's right from the start. Also makes sure there's no cross under the valve hole.
Drop the first spoke in from the outside (inbound) and take it to the spoke hole immediately left of the valve hole. For 3 cross count 6 holes to the right on the hub and in the next hole put a spoke in from the inside (outbound) and take it to the second spoke hole to the right of the valve. Then lace the wheel, the twist will be right from the start. For 2 cross count 4 holes to the right, for 4 cross 8 holes. 👍 View attachment 792251View attachment 792252
Thanks gonna try that way now.
If that doesn't work ,I'll accept defeat and factory wheels were built using voodoo magic and I'm gonna order spokes 5mm shorter
 
Is it possible they were always like this? Did you notice when unlacing them? Do they protrude so far out that they would hit the rim strip? Is there evidence on the rim strip of the spokes hitting it?
 
Is it possible they were always like this? Did you notice when unlacing them? Do they protrude so far out that they would hit the rim strip? Is there evidence on the rim strip of the spokes hitting it?
Can't remember really but this cant be right
 

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If you see the pictures it is not right there would be no rim strip left and no inner tube, probably not much tyre left when it's gone a bit flat.

Just build 4X

If you want to go 3X then 265mm will likely be too long, you need to make sure the spoke end stops just under the screwdriver slot of the nipple. One to make it is easier to build, two so nothing sticks out of the nipple end. These rims don't have the buffer of a double wall rim.
It then give a bit of leeway for the end to go into the slot.

Measure, measure and double check.
Use a Vernier or steel rule to measure the full protrusion, take that off.
Then also do and we'd setup and check they are the same.

I would guess you are lucky and you've either just bottomed out the spoke threads in the nipple to just give enough tension in that 3X setup
 
If you see the pictures it is not right there would be no rim strip left and no inner tube, probably not much tyre left when it's gone a bit flat.

Just build 4X

If you want to go 3X then 265mm will likely be too long, you need to make sure the spoke end stops just under the screwdriver slot of the nipple. One to make it is easier to build, two so nothing sticks out of the nipple end. These rims don't have the buffer of a double wall rim.
It then give a bit of leeway for the end to go into the slot.

Measure, measure and double check.
Use a Vernier or steel rule to measure the full protrusion, take that off.
Then also do and we'd setup and check they are the same.

I would guess you are lucky and you've either just bottomed out the spoke threads in the nipple to just give enough tension in that 3X setup
Hi,thanks for the reply.
I just tried 4x and just doesn't look right,well. . looks a bit weird.
Anyway..
I just disassembled the whell (again) and gonna order shorter spokes to make it 3x cross.
The spokes I've got now and original are 270mm.
Gonna order 263mm spokes ,as currently sticks out 5mm out of the nipple plus 2mm of the nipple itself so 7mm excess
 

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