Spoke lengths
- Thread starter forcutty
- Start date
From Spocalc assuming that the front hub is the deore disc hub and the rim is a Ritchey Rock Pro from 2001:
Front Wheel
N, total number of spokes 32
ERD, effective rim diameter 548.0
OSB, offset spoke bed 0.0
WL, width from center to left flange 31.7
WR, width from center to right flange 21.1
dL, left flange diameter 61.0
dR, right flange diameter 61.0
S, spoke hole diameter 2.4
X, cross number (decimal allowed)(optional) 3.00
WL_effective = W + OSB 31.7
WR_effective = W - OSB 21.1
cross left length right length
0 244.4 243.2
1 246.9 245.8
2 254.1 253.0
3 264.5 263.5
4 276.3 275.3
But the odd thing is that the rim is listed as having an erd of 548 but then lists this as the 'Nipple Seat Dia + 3mm for nipples' and I'm not sure what that means - is the rim odd in anyway?
All that said, I'm not responsible if the spokes are the wrong length!
Front Wheel
N, total number of spokes 32
ERD, effective rim diameter 548.0
OSB, offset spoke bed 0.0
WL, width from center to left flange 31.7
WR, width from center to right flange 21.1
dL, left flange diameter 61.0
dR, right flange diameter 61.0
S, spoke hole diameter 2.4
X, cross number (decimal allowed)(optional) 3.00
WL_effective = W + OSB 31.7
WR_effective = W - OSB 21.1
cross left length right length
0 244.4 243.2
1 246.9 245.8
2 254.1 253.0
3 264.5 263.5
4 276.3 275.3
But the odd thing is that the rim is listed as having an erd of 548 but then lists this as the 'Nipple Seat Dia + 3mm for nipples' and I'm not sure what that means - is the rim odd in anyway?
All that said, I'm not responsible if the spokes are the wrong length!
Thanks very much. I've ordered the hub and rim from CRC. I have never built a wheel before 
.Hence the noob question was going to give it a shot with the help of Sheldon browns site. I have ordered spokes from CRC too and asked them to match them to the rim/hub combo. Hope they send the right ones :!:
Does anyone know what size the thread is on the end, I might bring a die home from work just in case they are to long.
.Hence the noob question was going to give it a shot with the help of Sheldon browns site. I have ordered spokes from CRC too and asked them to match them to the rim/hub combo. Hope they send the right ones :!: Does anyone know what size the thread is on the end, I might bring a die home from work just in case they are to long.
Just order different length nipples if needed, they come in 12, 14 or 16mm . CRC are normally spot on with their wheels so I wouldn't worry, although they charge so little for their building I would have been tempted to splash the cash a little more!
Thats a good idea about the nipples.
Yes. I could have got them to do it, but I wanted to see if i could. I've wanted to build a wheel for some time and this seems a good excuse!!
I currently thinking of powder coating the Raleigh frame (RAL 6014) yellow olive :shock: . With big white raleigh decals over the top. :roll:
I know you guys are more into preserving bikes but i'm thinking more of practicality and pure tartyness.
Yes. I could have got them to do it, but I wanted to see if i could. I've wanted to build a wheel for some time and this seems a good excuse!!
I currently thinking of powder coating the Raleigh frame (RAL 6014) yellow olive :shock: . With big white raleigh decals over the top. :roll:
I know you guys are more into preserving bikes but i'm thinking more of practicality and pure tartyness.
- Feedback
- View
forcutty":5fjewt81 said:Thats a good idea about the nipples.
Yes. I could have got them to do it, but I wanted to see if i could. I've wanted to build a wheel for some time and this seems a good excuse!!
I currently thinking of powder coating the Raleigh frame (RAL 6014) yellow olive :shock: . With big white raleigh decals over the top. :roll:
I know you guys are more into preserving bikes but i'm thinking more of practicality and pure tartyness.
I would have had them build the full lot, you would get everything correct.
Then just took it apart then rebuilt it.
What you get this way is a cheaper wheel.
Last time I priced it up a wheel, it worked out as spokes and the build were free. :shock:
EDIT
Saying that for what your getting they don't have the rims in their custom section and anything else cost more. So ignore me. But for more expensive stuff it works.
- Feedback
- View
pete_mcc":35semid0 said:
Nipple seat diameter is the diameter where the nipples 'sit' in the rim (the inside of nipple head, wrt it build up.).
Nipples heads are ~3mm normally so that is added to get the ERD
- Feedback
- View
forcutty":3nhxu5al said:(though not sure why this is not doubled?)FluffyChicken":3nhxu5al said:
You've lost me now :!:
Grab a nipple.
Caress a spoke into it so the end of the spoke is level with the end of the nipple
The ERD (Effective Rim Diameter) that everything is measure by is taken at this spoke end length.
Now the head of the nipple is the 'bulging bi't, and the bottom of this bulge is where the nipple sits against the rim and this is the distance used for nipple seat diameter.
Nipple Seat Diameter (NSD) is probably better as this would never change for a rim. And a nipple can change depending on what you buy, though all are pretty similar.
Hope that makes it no clearer
so
ERD is labelled on here.
maybe this will also help.
Effective Rim Diameter (ERD) is the diameter on which you want the ends of the spokes to lie. Most people prefer it near the end of the spoke nipple.
Which may account for why it's not doubles as there is a screw slot on the nipple and it's about half the thickness of the nipple bulge. Normally for ease you would not screw past that point too much.
(note many of these terms are not technical, just what I can think of calling them
)Similar threads
