Singlespeed advice please
- Thread starter Andy R
- Start date
It wouldn't help any - although the cylinder body would appear to have more clearance the whole lot would be moved out about 8mm to start with (as the section that grips the cylinder is offset) and we'd be back to square one, unfortunately :roll:
It's a real pity, as the front brake was excellent, but the whole idea was to end up with something better than the U brake - the front has an Avid Arch Rival fiited which is good anyway.
Andy.
It's a real pity, as the front brake was excellent, but the whole idea was to end up with something better than the U brake - the front has an Avid Arch Rival fiited which is good anyway.
Andy.
FSR-Si
Senior Retro Guru
Hi Andy
After looking at the pics over and over again i'm a bit stuck for suggestions, The left caliper (pic 3.jpg) doesn't look to bad of a fit but the right one looks a mile out, I'm being to wonder if its down to rim width and possibly the Canti boss.
If you still have the brake on the bike try setting it up without the bottom two adjuster things that sit against the seat stay, as you may be able to line them up a bit better then top up the fluid to push the blocks towards the rim.
If it don't work sorry for pushing you onto a bum steer mate if i'd of known it would of gone this way i'd of kept my mouth shut
After looking at the pics over and over again i'm a bit stuck for suggestions, The left caliper (pic 3.jpg) doesn't look to bad of a fit but the right one looks a mile out, I'm being to wonder if its down to rim width and possibly the Canti boss.
If you still have the brake on the bike try setting it up without the bottom two adjuster things that sit against the seat stay, as you may be able to line them up a bit better then top up the fluid to push the blocks towards the rim.
If it don't work sorry for pushing you onto a bum steer mate if i'd of known it would of gone this way i'd of kept my mouth shut
Both blocks were about the same distance from the rim - about 4mm further than they should have been! If I could angle the fittings in a little I would probably have got away with it but, as I said, that moves the brake block up as well as in which would put it into the tyre.
So, I'm left with three choices - Use a wider rim (Mavic 281 for example), buy the Magura braze-on fitting kit , remove the U brake bosses and fit that instead or go back to a U brake (or a roller cam).
Normally I would just go for the braze-on option (at about £20) and get my brazing gear out, but for some reason I'm rather loathe to irreversibly alter my old friend of 19 years and I'd never match the paint job
I think that it will have to be a search for the ultimate U brake - I'm sure I can find something quite tasty...
Simon, again many thanks for all your input - as for the Maguras, I might be able to persuade a friend of mine that he "really needs" them. If not, there's always the "For Sale" section here (or eBay of course...)
Or I have a Kilauea out in Greece that might like them - loads of options
So, I'm left with three choices - Use a wider rim (Mavic 281 for example), buy the Magura braze-on fitting kit , remove the U brake bosses and fit that instead or go back to a U brake (or a roller cam).
Normally I would just go for the braze-on option (at about £20) and get my brazing gear out, but for some reason I'm rather loathe to irreversibly alter my old friend of 19 years and I'd never match the paint job
I think that it will have to be a search for the ultimate U brake - I'm sure I can find something quite tasty...
Simon, again many thanks for all your input - as for the Maguras, I might be able to persuade a friend of mine that he "really needs" them. If not, there's always the "For Sale" section here (or eBay of course...)
Or I have a Kilauea out in Greece that might like them - loads of options
Here's where I am at the moment with the Magura HS33's on my singlespeed Explosif . Since I had them anyway (and they hadn't cost me a fortune either) I decided to try and squeeze a little more adjustment from the rear cylinder adaptors. I extended the slots both upwards and outwards by amout 2mm in each direction and also filed about 1mm more clearance on the outside face to allow the cylinder to tilt down a little.
It's tight, but it all works (as the actress.... ) . I wouldn't have modified the mounts like this if it had been a front brake as the consequences of something "letting go" would be much more serious :!:
Haing said that it all seems fine - I've ordered a new set of pads as I expect they will give me a little more to play with.
I've dispensed with the QR on the rear brake - an allen screw and a decent washer seems more secure and I can live with removing one screw to get the wheel out.
At some time in the future I might get myself a set of the cylinder clamps that fit the braze-on mounts (like are used on trials bikes) and make up a one piece "arch" type plate to fit over both U brake studs that these can in turn be fitted to.
It's tight, but it all works (as the actress....
) . I wouldn't have modified the mounts like this if it had been a front brake as the consequences of something "letting go" would be much more serious :!: Haing said that it all seems fine - I've ordered a new set of pads as I expect they will give me a little more to play with.
I've dispensed with the QR on the rear brake - an allen screw and a decent washer seems more secure and I can live with removing one screw to get the wheel out.
At some time in the future I might get myself a set of the cylinder clamps that fit the braze-on mounts (like are used on trials bikes) and make up a one piece "arch" type plate to fit over both U brake studs that these can in turn be fitted to.
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Welcome to the world of a rear brake mate Simon - I don't usually give up easily with stuff like this, and having got it all working I think it is well worth the little bit of time it took to fettle them.
The front brake is probably no better than the Avid linear pull that I was using (but with much better feel/modulation) but the rear is miles better in every way than the U brake was . I'll use it as it stands for a while and if I continue to be as impressed as I am now, I might bite the bullet and either fit V brake studs (and use the mounts I have already, or two unmodded ones probably) or fit the "two bolt" type braze-ons and the trials type cylinder mounts.
I know that it would detract from the originality of the frame but it's not like it's something really rare (nor, more to the point, valuable !). It's just an old bike that I've ridden for years and sometimes I think the best way to treat things like that is to let them change and evolve as I do.
That's my excuse anyway !
Thanks once again,
Andy.
The front brake is probably no better than the Avid linear pull that I was using (but with much better feel/modulation) but the rear is miles better in every way than the U brake was . I'll use it as it stands for a while and if I continue to be as impressed as I am now, I might bite the bullet and either fit V brake studs (and use the mounts I have already, or two unmodded ones probably) or fit the "two bolt" type braze-ons and the trials type cylinder mounts.
I know that it would detract from the originality of the frame but it's not like it's something really rare (nor, more to the point, valuable !). It's just an old bike that I've ridden for years and sometimes I think the best way to treat things like that is to let them change and evolve as I do.
That's my excuse anyway !
Thanks once again,
Andy.
