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Does anyone still do the coke can trick.

Back in the 90s a friend of mine buggered the taper on his left hand crank and used a piece of coke can (ginger beer or iron bru will also do:lol: ) to shim it.

As far as I know it's still working to this day. Might be worth a try (although his was a beefy looking Deore crank) until you find another?
 
greencat":3nc6mb4l said:
Does anyone still do the coke can trick.

Back in the 90s a friend of mine buggered the taper on his left hand crank and used a piece of coke can (ginger beer or iron bru will also do:lol: ) to shim it.

As far as I know it's still working to this day. Might be worth a try (although his was a beefy looking Deore crank) until you find another?

doesnt work with cranks .

it makes it last a bit longer but will give up in the end .
 
Worn crank tapers are usually easily spotted, tight cranks which you will feel a litle give in every time you put one foot forward, or a slight play notieable which is usually thought to be the BB. It starts as a slight knock every half turn, and it is usually only through ignorance that it gets to a point where it falls off. Usually teh crank bolt can be fully tightened against teh BB axle, and at such a point does not "undo" itself.

An easy way to do the tapers of a crank in are by riding with crank bolts not tightened to the correct torque, or with the wrong taper BB in teh long crank taper.

There is a way to get a bit more life out of them, a pedal washer as supplied with Truvativ between the bolt and crank will increase the distance just enough to get it tight and snug with no movement.

Coda Tarantula cranks suffered the same problem with heavy use.

As for a dodgy crank taper only being noticeable when the crank falls off, sorry but it takes a few turns and it is always very apparent that someting is not right and too loose.
I have worked on many such issues, and warrantied, and experienced many such issues. Usually always an assembly issue.
 

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