Sale problem arbitration please - Cooks content!
- Thread starter South Bound
- Start date
I had a pair of cooks i rode for a bit
they had also been through several owners,but were fine and ive heard nothing back from the member i sold them too
Lets face it ,if you ride with a loose bolt then its hardly surprising it came out and the crank worked loose.
I reckon any crank would fall off if it wasnt securely bolted on :?
This is why god invented threadloc and torque wrenches
they had also been through several owners,but were fine and ive heard nothing back from the member i sold them too
Lets face it ,if you ride with a loose bolt then its hardly surprising it came out and the crank worked loose.
I reckon any crank would fall off if it wasnt securely bolted on :?
This is why god invented threadloc and torque wrenches
wot Scant said.
There is a massive variation between "riding" and what other would call "pootling".
If you RIDE a cooks crank, it won't last forever. I have I think 4 cooks RSR rh arms now devoid of lefts.
And some toplines.
And mark 1 and 2 graftons.
And it seems early middleburns just die fullstop so I don't use those any more. Basically a CNC cranks arm isn't a great idea. They all die even tually was the square taper oosens to brak out. But aI also have very old F cranks and XT and Ultegra cranks with tens of thousands of miles on them, no problem as they're a forged design.
Any bullseyes last well too, but thats a totally leftfield design (but the stock BB is weak as its designed to last a single BMX race in the dry, so really you need a desperado kit to make it more modern). There is a reason shimano copied this design as the patents expired.
I'm not helping the dilemma much, but we're talking flyweight race parts, not designed to last forever. A 3.5lb frame with a 1 year warranty isn't going to last a long as an 8lb steely with a lifetime warranty. But 15 years on I'm hearing more and more grumbling about "they break". They were never designed to last. They were designed to last a season.
The racing car and motorcycle boys undertsand that stuff dies as you thrash it, but there does seem to be an element of expecting stuff last forever.
I'll keep out of the transactional dilemma other than saying good on you for wannting to resolve it amicably, but similarly, 15 year old cranks/ bars/ pedals/ BBs etc shoudl always be taken with a big pinch of salt.
Just my 2 pence,
There is a massive variation between "riding" and what other would call "pootling".
If you RIDE a cooks crank, it won't last forever. I have I think 4 cooks RSR rh arms now devoid of lefts.
And some toplines.
And mark 1 and 2 graftons.
And it seems early middleburns just die fullstop so I don't use those any more. Basically a CNC cranks arm isn't a great idea. They all die even tually was the square taper oosens to brak out. But aI also have very old F cranks and XT and Ultegra cranks with tens of thousands of miles on them, no problem as they're a forged design.
Any bullseyes last well too, but thats a totally leftfield design (but the stock BB is weak as its designed to last a single BMX race in the dry, so really you need a desperado kit to make it more modern). There is a reason shimano copied this design as the patents expired.
I'm not helping the dilemma much, but we're talking flyweight race parts, not designed to last forever. A 3.5lb frame with a 1 year warranty isn't going to last a long as an 8lb steely with a lifetime warranty. But 15 years on I'm hearing more and more grumbling about "they break". They were never designed to last. They were designed to last a season.
The racing car and motorcycle boys undertsand that stuff dies as you thrash it, but there does seem to be an element of expecting stuff last forever.
I'll keep out of the transactional dilemma other than saying good on you for wannting to resolve it amicably, but similarly, 15 year old cranks/ bars/ pedals/ BBs etc shoudl always be taken with a big pinch of salt.
Just my 2 pence,
sastusbulbas
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BarneyRubble":35orex7j said:Hi Chaps,
My Mrs (who is new to cycling and was bought the bike as a wedding present) had only been on the bike 15 mins when the LH crank dropped off taking the last few threads of the Ti crank bolt with it. There was no abuse as she was on the road and having hardly ridden a bike before, wasn't hucking some big drops!.
Sorry but in my opinion, this sounds like an assembly failure due to an amature mechanic, it does not sound like a LH crank arm failing.
As such I guess with it being second hand and not from a retail establishment that any recourse will only be goodwill.
It may serve as a good reminder to everyone that no matter how nice something Retro looks give it a thorough check over and assemble with recommended torque settings.
Do you know if the BB axle tapers are long or short?
Steve
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I sell my bikes completely dismantled - that way theres no worries from my bodge work...
BarneyRubble
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lewis1641":339z1mc6 said:
The point is the crank was obviously damaged before when it was assembled. If anyone here has fitted a damaged crank before they will know that when tightened up they can feel solid enough, which is why I have no reason to believe that SouthBound (Luke) knew that there was anything wrong with his purchase.
However, a damaged taper will work loose very quickly even if the bole that holds it on is tightened to the correct torque. This is why the crank simply fell off taking a titanium bolt's threads with it. There is no doubt in my mind that the taper was damaged when it was fitted correctly to the bike.
Would I have noticed it coming loose? Yes I would. Would this have changed the fact that the taper was damaged already? No it wouldn't. The arm came loose BECAUSE it was damaged, that is why the bolt tore out. The other side was correctly tightened and the tapers are fine, hence it staying securely attached to the bike.
As someone on this site has said earlier in the thread, old cranks do fail and I accept that. however I bought the bike with one of the main selling points being the cranks. "they are what makes the bike so special" to quote Luke in the emails we exchanged prior to making the purchase. Again I am not criticising Luke as he had no reason to assume the cranks were damaged and never rode the bike. However the cranks represented a large portion of the value of the bike (£140 by Luke's own valuation), so if they are knackered, it makes a difference.
As I said before Luke has agreed to contribute towards some replacements and I think this is fair. If he was a less reasonable man and had decided to be nasty about this, I would have had little recourse other than this court of opinion and it does surprise me that members are so quick to suggest that I was at fault or could be lying about what happened. :?
BarneyRubble
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legrandefromage":13u433kz said:
Incidentally, I would take this course of action again in the future. Having worked in a bike shop for 2 years I would have noticed the cranks were damaged if I had seen the tapers and could have immediately contacted Luke about it. Again this is not a criticism of Luke, just a thought for future purchasers.
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I had a set of Cooks , whch had to be tightened every so often . after a while , there was no point in doing it , they were just dead .
