Rattle can lacquer techniques

[1997BlackC5]

Last night I managed to put 3 coats of clear on my polished steel frame. No rubbing down between coats, leaving around 15 mins between coats. I followed instructions on the can, light dustings not so heavy as to get runs. I maintained the 20/30cm spraying distance. However I checked the frame this morning, expecting a nice smooth to the touch finish & what I found was that certain areas of the frame were ever so slightly rough to the touch. Whilst other areas were smooth as I had expected. Have I been to frugal with my coatings, do I need more coats, or is the opposite the case. Any tips/pointers would be much appreciated.

 

[matt24777]

I've had similar issues, would be interested in peoples opinions.

I have found it works better in warm weather :facepalm:

 

[The History Man]

Or in the kitchen.................

I have one to do this week so watching with interest.

 

[marc two tone]

Stop there!

Despite the directions on tin, it never turns out like you want it to.
If you now have a basic shine, let it harden over days and weeks in a warm environment. It really can take than long for rattle can applications.

It won't be of any benefit now to top it up as it may 'crawl' and dry 'frosty'. Trust me, my rattle can lacquering cost me dear. I gave it to a friend in the end who can apply the proper hardening version and a controlled environment.
It's not doom and gloom pal, carry on and enjoy your bike, there will be good water repelling going on and UV protection.
For anybody else reading this and wanting a lacquer coat, take your frame to a paint shop and see if they will lacquer it whilst doing something else.

 

[The History Man]

So your saying don't bother?

Scratches head.

 

[legrandefromage]

You've painted a raw frame? It will all peel off very soon. A clear powder coat would have been better. The metal will always be oxidizing and teeny holes in your paint will aid the process.

 

[1997BlackC5]

Thats right I did lacquer over a polished steel frame, I didn't want to clear powder coat as when I looked into it, it wasn't gonna give me the polished finish I was looking for. so I tapped up REKIBoter who has the same frame as mine, finished in polished steel & he advised me as to what he did to the frame, which was exactly as I have gone and done. He has Had no issues with micro rusting etc says its still wearing the lacquer & providing the bike is cleaned properly after each ride (which it will be) then he has had no issues.

 

[tigern]

What if you wetsand it now with 2000 or 2500 paper carefully and then polish?

 

[Rampage]

Leave it a month to harden then lightly sand with lubricant.

Use a powerful light when spraying lacquer to see how smooth it's going on. There is a very fine line between not enough and runs. Using a handheld light you can shine it at the surface and easily see if you need more. Spray a bit more on, leave it a few minutes and check again.

Use a decent lacquer from a car paint supplier, not Halfords.

If used in cold / damp weather it can turn milky.

 

[itscervo]

The technique for spray painting is the same for guns & rattle cans, always wipe the work piece with panel wipe or ipa solvent (don't use thinners) using a dry lint free cloth, followed by a full area wipe with a tack rag.
When spraying the distance between nozzle & the angle to the work piece must remain constant, press the trigger before you pass the leading edge of the work piece & don't release until you've passed the trailing edge, if the stroke is too quick or too far from the work piece the finish will be dry / dusty, too close will give runs & or an orange peel finish.

Where you paint should be draught free, warm with as little humidity as possible otherwise the paint finish will bloom (go milky / opaque), always leave the paint to harden before trying to rectify any faults.