presta valve woes. what am i doing wrong?

cheers folks. to answer some of the questions I have used kenda, maxxis, schwalbe, airwave, decathlons cheap & expensive tubes & nutrack tubes & had issues between the 2 bikes. the tires are getting to the point where they need to be replaced (folding 2.1 panaracer fire xc pro) & they do go on & off the rim pretty easily. I will back off the locking nut too and see if this helps the problem.

I think the sensible thing to do is drill the rims out next time i'm due a change & see if the problem stops with schrader valves.
 
FluffyChicken":3pv0ik1u said:
jax13":3pv0ik1u said:
tighten the lockring down against the rim & away I go.
This is not helping and wrong.
The ring is there to help you inflate it, after that it is redundant.
There should be not pressure pulling the valve stem.


.

See why dont people tell you these things, never had this problem but always ensured the lockring was down and tight
 
Charlieboy28":31si4e2f said:
FluffyChicken":31si4e2f said:
jax13":31si4e2f said:
tighten the lockring down against the rim & away I go.
This is not helping and wrong.
The ring is there to help you inflate it, after that it is redundant.
There should be not pressure pulling the valve stem.


.

See why dont people tell you these things, never had this problem but always ensured the lockring was down and tight

I always did the same until i kept ripping them then it was mentioned to me. Not had a problem since, then i also read the exhale info and some other places. Makes sense to, let it move rather than rip. I think its mainly where you tighten it and actually pull the tube.
 
Presta valves are fine and those little holes are sometimes the only option on narrow/aero rims

They look cool too

I have used a puncture repair patch with a hole cut out of the middle as a sort of grommet/reinforcing ring between the rim and tube with valve through the hole on a problem wheelset - and made the issue go away

I guess it's the same difference as the corn plaster suggestion already chipped in

Talc sounds sensible too. Running tyre pressures dictated by anything other than actual riding is odd and unhelpful advice!
 
hydorah":22la27o7 said:
Presta valves are fine and [...]

They look cool too

[...]

Running tyre pressures dictated by anything other than actual riding is odd and unhelpful advice!

Yup. Schrader valves are for babies or people going on long tours in parts of the world where their inexpensive pumps fail and they have to rely on the kindness of strangers.

If your tyre pressure is too low, the tube will move around alot, leading to a greater chance of tube-slide-induced valve-seat failure. If it is too high, it won't move at all, but your riding ability will be compromised.

So talc up and get to know your tyres. And if you get home from a ride with a valve angle slighty more acute than you started, then you have the balance about right.

Using the screw-on metal ring or not using the s.o.m ring doesn't matter if you get your balance right.
 
Ive taken my slicks onto offroad type path without a problem at about 65psi and never had any issues over the 20 miles.Bloody bumpy though :lol:
 
Rob Atkin":1rpu22pa said:
+1 for drilling rims and putting proper valves in.

Presta just aren't as durable. Fine for road bikes so you can put 100psi in but MTB's should be car type valves. Stronger, less affected by dirt.

Can't you pump a Schrader up to 100psi then???
 
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