Poyner - oh wait - Harry Quinn

[torqueless]

Re:

Yeah the spacer would kill two birds with one stone, and you wouldn't have to do much, if any, spoke-tensioning. IMO the brake-centering is a separate issue though. Finney may even have set up his rear wheel to ease the issue with the brakes, either consciously or sub-consciously? There must be a way to bend one side of the spring a bit to even out the tension, but I have had a Modolo spring break without even doing anything to it, so I hesitate to suggest pulling them about in a vice.

I guess with downtube decals the gear changers are always going to be a limiting factor. Maybe that's why framebuilders tend to have monosyllabic names like 'Stan Pike', or if your name is Alexander Sebastian Gillot or something, you just use your initials...

I get things 'less than optimal' too. To prove it, here is a graphic example of Torqueless trying to be clever with panels, and consequently getting shafted by his own rule...

 

[FINNEY1973]

Wouldn't fancy the job of placing decals to earn my money! At least they're not waterslide!!

As for the rear wheel, it really should be done properly, altering the spacing arrangement has merits, I'll try it but I think the chainline may be compromised. We shall see.

The main difficulty is with the braze-on brake bosses. They limit the options with the caliper. I had to fettle the springs so that they hold the calipers as central as possible whilst exerting equal force to both blocks under braking. Not easy and it's still not perfect.

To the decals - location on the tubes is obviously subject to the tube length & length of decal, plus as you say, where the lever boss is located.

Having measured my frame out I have the following dimensions:
These are tube lengths, not C-C measurements:
Seat tube = 20"
Down tube = 23"
Down tube from BB to Lever boss = 19"
Down tube from Chain Ring edge to Lever boss = 15 1/2"
531 Decal = 1 1/4"
Harry Quinn = 10"

In my minds eye (which has so obviously failed me once!) the H of Harry on the down tube should be at the same distance away from the chainring as the last N in Quinn on the seat tube - would this seem a logical thing to do? Obviously I need to be mindful of swapping the chaining to something larger and thus making it looks like a dogs dinner again!! So I think that's the first port of call - buy a 54T chainring and some new decals. Photocopy the decals then I can tack them onto the frame and get it spot on (hopefully).