Orange P7 project

[nelly]

I picked up this P7 with the intention of converting it to a tourer however at 18" the frame is just too small for me. (note to self : next time study the information posted by the ebay seller carefully )
Anyways its a lovely bike in need of some TLC, so my choices are to turn in into a SS fun bike or leave as is and have a steel hard tail for the (very) occassional off road session. Studying the bikes condition 2 things strike me. First of all the lacquer is starting to fail, there is also some very deeply ingrained dirt / corrossion where the seat-post meets the BB shell. And secondly the chainrings are in rotten condition and probably in need of replacement.
Anybody out there have any thoughts on how I should proceed regards paint job and SS conversion. Or should I leave as is and just replace the worn parts?

 

[saltyman]

SS is great but you may get tired of the lack of speed.

 

[Anthony]

It looks great from that photo. It is in fact a size 19 as they measure it from centre of bb to top of seat tube. I’m not sure if that configuration is from 95 or 96, but we could confirm its model year from the serial number if you want to post it up.

The plated plus orange decals is the classic P7 look, arguably the classic look of all Oranges. The plating can start to look a bit tired if not cared for, but the problems are usually superficial and repairable. Often it’s a case of an untreated chip rusting and a film of surface rust discolouring the silver plating nearby. This can be cleaned off with a bit of elbow grease etc, restoring the nice silver look. Then treat the chip with a spot of Kurust to stabilise it and prevent it from causing any repeat discolouration. Ideally finish off with a spot of chrome silver modelling paint.

The problem at the base of the seat tube sounds like a similar problem magnified by being in the worst position. Unless there’s any evidence of rust coming from the inside (i.e., bubbles where there is no hole in the paint), the solution is the same as above except more so. I always file off any loose paint, minor bubbles etc, and treat as above. You end up with a stable surface and the bike looking fine, you can’t really see the repairs unless you stare at them from close up.

Personally I would just replace the worn parts, except if the budget allowed I’d fit V-brakes instead of the cantis and I’d upgrade to handbuilt wheels and folding tyres. And I’d put the stem in properly, as it looks dangerous sticking out that far.

It’s a great frame, a superb fork and a classic look. I don’t think you’re doing too badly!

 

[nelly]

more pics

 

[nelly]

one more

 

[nelly]

serial number

A50101795

 

[fingers]

If its too small, its not really worth new dropouts & paint, so just ss it with a tensioner... If you can run a long post and get away with it, you could send it to a framebuilder and get it refurbed... BUT -

As a P7 fan - I have 2, I would try and save it as is - you can polish off the top surface of the plate/lacquer, and it will look more silvery, but still be smart. As you say thats a classic finish. So I would get polishing!

 

[nelly]

middle ring

am leaning towards SS conversion - just wondering about tensioners etc. Saw these on the freshtripe site and wondered if it is worth considering?
http://www.freshtripe.co.uk/Freshtripe/ ... eper-1.png

 

[Anthony]

Re: serial number

A50101795

That's the standard format and we're confident it means the frame was built in January 1995, so it's a 1995 model.

Plating looks fairly sound to me, I've seen much more daunting examples than that. And I can't see any alarming signs in those pictures. It'll look great if you want to put a bit of elbow grease into the project. You could spend a lot of money without making it look any better than it could look in this noble original condition. Along with Pace, this is THE classic British mountain bike IMO.

 

[nelly]

corrosion