Marzocchi bomber. Diagnosis needed.

For the damping, oil is normally squished through holes when compressed and decompressed

Different oil viscosity gives faster or slower rates of dampingnessness

Pushing oil through different sized holes changes the rate at which it all damps too

This then gives you the 'fast' or 'slow' fork or a pogo stick when there is no oil at all

You get open bath designs that leave stinky fork oil all over the work bench when dissassembled

There are cartridge designs that also split and drop stinky fork oil all over the work bench

That's my fevered covid thoughts, please feel free to correct and add to
 
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Spring, there are no poxey springs with these, they do away with big metal hefty expensive stuff that only serve the fat or the thin and never for the weight of the retro bodied buyer.
These use that free* stuff all around you called, "air" and make it act like a metal spring.
Stick a but more in for my lard arse or your tallness, or release it for them thin children. (a bit like a tyre).


*unless it is "retro air" , look after that as it getting more expensive every day.
 
Marc, (in a slow voice) it is called suspension, it goes up and down with what ever you ride over, it tries to make it a bit comfier and improve grip with the surface. So safer too.

;-)
🍻
On that note, ive gotta get me some of that sh&t.
Im still looking to telford and brunell for my suspension fix 😉
 
I had this problem with a set of 2000 Z4 Flylight Air. I removed the brake studs and, hey presto, halfway through a ride I had a oil gusher and the fork deflated. Replacing the studs didn't work for me: it still leaked a little - right onto the disc rotor below. I tried taking it apart, cleaning it all up and applying Wellseal jointing compound. It worked for a bit, but failed under harder off-ride use. The joint with the fork lowers is just compression - there are no seals. I find it difficult to fathom how it would ever be oil-tight. Not very helpful I know but interested to hear solutions.
 
Other than the big warning in the instructions, even not to reuse removed bolts.

But the ones I've seen that are well used seem to have a seal/foam part sticking out at the joint interface.
 
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