I've a roadbike itch that needs scratching

[gtRTSdh]

well, 25 miles in an hour and a half on an average route just shows that I need a bit of training, I didn't get overtaken by any other cyclists which is good. I did do 20 miles yesterday and a climb that I had to give up and walk or collapse so was still suffering a bit from that!

Bike's fine more comfortable than I thought it would be, certainly no need for a bouncy post.

 

[nammonk]

Sounds good to me! If you decide to go for down-tube shifters, have a look at

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=193748

to see if there is anything that would do.

Nick

 

[Midlife]

Beat me to it

Shaun

 

[gtRTSdh]

watching a set of 8sp down tube shifters on evil bay.

Just doing a bit of maintanence, trued the rear wheel, probable self build as the spokes aren't on the right side of the flange drive side, straightened the rear mech hanger and put the 8sp cassette on. The mech and shifters work with 8sp, but the mech wasn't setup well.

Now I've set it properly the chain's slack in smallest smallest position, in largest largest I could remove a link, but I'm not sure if roadies tend to leave their chains longer as they spend more time in the big ring, what do you guys think, cut the link out?

 

[nammonk]

You should avoid smallest-smallest and largest-largest anyway, as the chainline is poor with those combinations and you should have an alternative ratio close to them somewhere else.

So if you've got a links-worth of freedom in largest-largest, I'd say take it out, so long as this means your big ring / middle of block is not too tight. Too loose a chain will give you chain slap when you're in the little ring and mess up your drive-side stay. Chain tension can affect shifting if it is too high/low, too, so you might want to experiment with this if the shifting is ropey and everything else is set up right.

Nick

 

[gtRTSdh]

Appreciate the quick reply!!! Chain link removed, it's a smidge too tight in largest - largest, but as you say this is not a gear to actually be used! You can just see the rear mech position mid block. Good news no chain slip with new cassette fitted and going from (7) 13-24 to ( 12-25 has provided a useful bit of ratio widening, did a 5 mile cicuit from home and needed easiest gear and spun out 50-12 that's a fun speed!

It's amazing the difference a tune up makes. Removed all the brake pads, cleaned and reset (aren't road bike brakes easy, try maguras!), pulled the front wheel to the left with half a turn on each spoke to centralize in the forks, Centralized the rear brake & tightened the cable, all working as smoothly as I can expect now.

 

[Midlife]

Looks like you did the right thing taking the link out......that's a wide spread of gears you have there LOL

Are there a lot of steep hills where you live ?

Shaun

 

[hamster]

I'll be contrary and say stick the link back in. It's at the moment when the chavs in the Saxo have chucked an empty Sunny D bottle at you that you have to change down.

If you are unfortunate the big-big combo will stuff the rear mech into the wheel, rip out the hanger and tear off a few spokes.

It's best to have a slightly flappy chain and buy a foot of helicopter tape for the chainstay than trash the bike and risk hurting yourself.

 

[gtRTSdh]

50/34 to 12/25, the way I went today hits 1 in 6 after 3/4mile, no way am I powerful enough to completely spin out 50-12 on the flat so yes that was down hill, no computer felt about 40ish (mph). Have hit nigh on 50 spinning 48:11 down a long 1:6 on my mtb in my youth, neighbours would ring up my parents worried I was going to kill myself!

 

[legrandefromage]

I do have a spare set of 8spd downtube shifters, new in box: