Help with this Rock Shox please
- Thread starter Jimmy2021
- Start date
joglo
Senior Retro Guru
sorry haven't looked at this thread earlier and not sure if this is meanwhile clear.
Scapin was selling a few years tuned variants of RS Judy forks.
They had a custom crown, but also internals have been changed. Different Variants, so-called "KIT"s have been available.
Maybe there is therefore a small difference to regular RS Judy models, other than just the crown or the decals.
Last edited:
joglo
Senior Retro Guru
BTW, based on my experience with used Judy forks, yours seem to have a very typical issue.
The lower part of the stanchion has too much wear, as from what I can see at this picture from you.
Usually the surface of the stanchion at the bottom of the fork has been killed by missing lubrication.
Mostly this can't be cleaned, but the surface finish went away and there is a lot more friction at this area of the stanchion.
This happens often just on one side of the Judy Stanchions, the side without the cartridge (if this has a regular Judy layout, not the Judy DH, and not sure if Scapin had different cartridges).
As mostly the cartridge start to leak oil in a way, at least this helps the stanchion to have a bit of lubrication.
You should better replace this.
The lower part of the stanchion has too much wear, as from what I can see at this picture from you.
Usually the surface of the stanchion at the bottom of the fork has been killed by missing lubrication.
Mostly this can't be cleaned, but the surface finish went away and there is a lot more friction at this area of the stanchion.
This happens often just on one side of the Judy Stanchions, the side without the cartridge (if this has a regular Judy layout, not the Judy DH, and not sure if Scapin had different cartridges).
As mostly the cartridge start to leak oil in a way, at least this helps the stanchion to have a bit of lubrication.
You should better replace this.
Thanks for your input.
Bear with me if I'm about to say something stupid, but...
Looking at how the fork is constructed, the part of the stanchion that is damaged, does not rub against anything.
It is only the top part that slides in the collar in the lower leg.
So, I don't think it makes any difference if that part of the stanchion is oxidized.
In fact, when it was together, the fork worked fine; I only took it apart for a quick regrease.
I might be totally wrong of course, but I have the fork here in bits and I can see the above.
Bear with me if I'm about to say something stupid, but...
Looking at how the fork is constructed, the part of the stanchion that is damaged, does not rub against anything.
It is only the top part that slides in the collar in the lower leg.
So, I don't think it makes any difference if that part of the stanchion is oxidized.
In fact, when it was together, the fork worked fine; I only took it apart for a quick regrease.
I might be totally wrong of course, but I have the fork here in bits and I can see the above.
joglo
Senior Retro Guru
sorry, just have this one only from a german GT brochure, but this nice drawing could be pretty helpfull:
Unterer Führungsring, at the bottom, means something like lower bushing.
That means there are two bushings between stanchions and lowers / casting. Both have to slip, the lower one does sit roughly at the part of the stanchion which does often have a lot of wear at Judy forks which haven't seen a regular service or new lubrication at all.
Unterer Führungsring, at the bottom, means something like lower bushing.
That means there are two bushings between stanchions and lowers / casting. Both have to slip, the lower one does sit roughly at the part of the stanchion which does often have a lot of wear at Judy forks which haven't seen a regular service or new lubrication at all.
Last edited:
