Fitting Kona P2s for first time - any top tips?

[bifter]

Hi

I'm slowly but surely renovating my old specialized rockhopper.

Next step is to remove the nasty generic suspension forks I had fitted a few years back and replace with some nice P2's I picked up on ebay.

I've never done such a thing before. Does anyone have any tips or advice?

I was going to first take off the old ones, (I guess using a spanner and allen keys), then cut the new one down to size using the old one as a guide for stem length. I was going to cut it with a hack saw and then file smooth. Then put it all back together again.

Thanks for any pointers!

 

[Danob1]

No hack saw go and get a pipe cutter. you'll find it hard to to get the cut level with a hack. Better still take both forks to your local bike shop, get them to do for pocket money

 

[Anthony]

I actually disagree with Danobi. If you're keen to do it yourself, there's nothing about the job to put you off. And a hacksaw with a metal-cutting blade will do a good enough job, it doesn't need to be the nth degree of perfect levelness.

Before cutting your new steerer, you should think about what height you want the bars to be. Measure the axle to crown length of the P2 (should be 41cm) and of your current fork. If the P2 is shorter, that should be fine for handling, but it could also make the bars lower and maybe you don't want that. In which case, you could run a longer steerer and get some stackers to put between the upper part of the headset and the stem. You don't need to replicate the existing set up, you can have what you want.

When you take the top cap off your current set up you should see that the top of the steerer is 2 or 3 mm below the top of the stem, which is the ideal. You don't want the gap between top of steerer and top of stem to be too large because the upper bolt of the stem needs something to clamp on to. But you don't want it to be nothing either, or you won't be able to pressure the headset correctly. So as far as the accuracy of your cut is concerned, as long as you can keep it within 1-2mm of level that'll do. And I'm always a reluctant cutter anyway. Unless the steerer is way too long, there can be an argument for trying the bike out with the full steerer length (and enough stackers) and see whether you like the higher position. It's easy to cut it down later, if that's what you decide to do.

Aside from that, there's not much to it. Once you've undone everything, you may need to give the fork a good bang to free it from the headset. And there are threads below with tips about how to remove the crown race and how to bung it onto the P2.

Start now and you'll be riding it before dark!

 

[perry]

Yep , I agree with Anthony , except if you start now you will be finished by noon , so I guess about an hour before it gets dark

File the cut so its smooth to the touch ( both inside and out ) not just square to the steerer ; so it doesn't cut into the stem or cut your finger next time you take it apart .

You can take more steerer away but you can't add more on .

 

[bifter]

Great stuff, thanks guys

Actually, I don't mind having the bars higher up - at the moment I have bars that are slightly rising for comfort but would prefer flat bars. This would allow me to do that.

Glad to hear that it's not a major job - especially after my BB ordeal!

 

[cyfa2809]

also! dont forget to remove the headset race from your old forks. many people forget to do this because it looks integral to the fork when its not

 

[lewis1641]

i assume the forks are ahead type and not threaded?

 

[lumos2000]

i normaly wrap a piece of masking tape round the steerer where i want the cut, keeping the edge level. then just cut to the edge of the tape simples.
oh and measure twice, cut once!

 

[bifter]

i assume the forks are ahead type and not threaded?

Aha, good you ask.

I just disassembled. It seems I have a few "challenges" ahead.

This is the first time I've had a go at changing forks. Forgive me if I get my part names in a muddle or ask dumb Qs.

Challenge number 1
The old forks are threaded the new ones are not. Is it possible to convert them over, or should I just stick the forks back on ebay and stop now? If I can convert, which parts do I need to purchase to do this? (Will a aheadset and new handlebar stem be enough?)

Challenge number 2
The diameter if the new forks is slightly bigger than the old ones - it still fits in the frame but not in the races - though I guess I will have to replace these anyhow.

Challenge number 3
OK, if I can switch these forks over and get the new ones to fit then I have to get the bloody crown race out of the top of the frame. Research shows that a few good whacks with a hammer and a flat head screw driver should get this out. Is there a knack to this as my attempts didn't budge it and I did not want to risk damaging anything by smacking it harder.


I'm feeling a bit of a dumb ass now as I had no idea there were two different types

 

[JeRkY]

Challenge number 1
The old forks are threaded the new ones are not. Is it possible to convert them over, or should I just stick the forks back on ebay and stop now? If I can convert, which parts do I need to purchase to do this? (Will a aheadset and new handlebar stem be enough?)

You need a new threadless (Ahead) headset. your new fork is for a Ahead system as apposed to the older threaded type. Any modern Ahead will fit, just make sure you get the right diameter for your frame...which leads us on to your next ... and most major problem.

Challenge number 2
The diameter if the new forks is slightly bigger than the old ones - it still fits in the frame but not in the races - though I guess I will have to replace these anyhow.

Most P2 forks are 1&1/18th inch diameter, if these do not fit through the headset cups in your frame it sounds as though you have a frame designed for a 1" steerer.. These forks are useless to you.

Challenge number 3
OK, if I can switch these forks over and get the new ones to fit then I have to get the bloody crown race out of the top of the frame. Research shows that a few good whacks with a hammer and a flat head screw driver should get this out. Is there a knack to this as my attempts didn't budge it and I did not want to risk damaging anything by smacking it harder.

Usual tip is to keep at it, however hold off for the time being as your new forks wont fit your frame any way.
For reference, if you go the route of a new headset, it will come with a new crown race, they are pretty much specific to each headset make.

I'm feeling a bit of a dumb ass now as I had no idea there were two different types

No worries, least you can still reasmble it!