Fat Chance pictures and any re-sprays and decaling?

[Elev12k]

Okay, does the post come out?

Like Ed said, from the pics I would say wear is not that severe that it is worth to remove the original paint. Professionals can do a really stunning job with touching up.

If full repaint: I understand YoKris has educated himself really well on original FAT paint compositions.

 

[sastusbulbas]

Okay, does the post come out?

Like Ed said, from the pics I would say wear is not that severe that it is worth to remove the original paint. Professionals can do a really stunning job with touching up.

If full repaint: I understand YoKris has educated himself really well on original FAT paint compositions.

Post is seized, will take it to work and work out a way to remove it.

Spoken to YoKris too, will wait and see how it looks when I build it back up before deciding on painting.

 

[Elev12k]

Sastus,

With all respect, but removing post and rust treatening should be main focus now. What's inside, that counts Seriously, steel frames with tubing that thin can have an issue especially when posts are seized etc.

 

[gump]

Some pics here - thats just like mine!!

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/mai ... emId=12811


and heres what not to do...
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... hlight=fat
:roll:
not my finest moment.

I have now built up with black bits and honestly, it suits the frame best by far. Its been through many colours, but red and anno is a tough cookie..

Just build and ride though, they ride so well would be a shame not to!

 

[sastusbulbas]

Sastus,

With all respect, but removing post and rust treatening should be main focus now. What's inside, that counts Seriously, steel frames with tubing that thin can have an issue especially when posts are seized etc.

Hi,

Yes, I know, I seem to have confidence that the frame is going to be fine, hence why I said I would wait and see how it looks when I build it back up before deciding.

There was some rust and dirt inside, usual amount for a used steel frame (about a tablespoon), rest of the tubes will be fine. (they are sealed after all)

Another person used this frame for a few years, I ended up with other more desireable bikes, and during that time he had a habit of putting the seat up and down while mountain biking in all conditions, then for the last year didn't touch the post, I am under the impression that this is the main cause of the alloy post corroding and seizing into the steel frame, lack of grease and a scoured alloy post.

I think the lip seal on the seat collar also kept a lot of crud and water out of the seat tube.

The seat post was a 400mm odd basic, seized down to the F in Fat.

I am going to fill the seat tube with Cola tommorow and leave it for a few days, failing that I will put tape round one end of a hacksaw and carefully cut a few slots down the inside of the alloy post, then gently clean, polish and rust proof the seat tube internals.

I have done this successfully on a few frames, inc a friends Stumpy M2.

Steve

 

[sastusbulbas]

Hello Gump,

I would prefer all black, with original Judy's, Judy SL or Pace Pro Class.
1997 XT or XTR groupo with combination Brake/gear STI levers.

I originally had it with Amp forks, it also had various wheels, I felt Crosmax suited it well.

It ended up rigid with XTR original hubs on D521's and full XT group, cheap seat pin and a black Bontrager welded steel quill stem and black Bontrager bars, black rigid forks too.

It then came back in poor condition was stripped and cleaned, found to have a seized post and stored in my loft for a number of years.

 

[Elev12k]

This is a friends Buck. It has the colour matching Judy forks. Grips and Brooks seat are colour selected with the tyres. Neat DX groupset was donated by cheaply acquired Panasonic MC-6500 donor bicycle (frame went to me ) The DX is not period correct with frame set, but I think it is still a more proper choice than '96 era XT or LX (I have nothing with those parts)

I am not a big fan of red, but I am fan of this one.